YeaImDylan

Hey all, planning to rebuild my pump since I believe it works fine and would like to save money on having a shop replace it (whether its a whole new part or paying labor for the rebuild). Should I get a vacuum tester to see if my pump should just be outright replaces? I have no issues with my brakes and whatnot. Only possible vacuum related issue is my front diff not engaging but I plan to install a posi-lok in the future. Cruise control has been working fine again with no surging (fingers crossed) which is the only actual vacuum problem I may have. I don't think that is due to the pump malfunctioning though. Biggest question is are there any write ups on how to rebuild this with a list of tools I will need? I live in the barracks and none of my friends here with houses have an abundance of tools or things with a big enough diameter to press the gasket in with a mallet. I have some tools but am willing to buy a socket or flat dowel type of thing to drive the gasket in but don't want to buy a bunch of different sizes. Also, if anyone is in the area around Camp Lejeune, NC (1-2 hours away) with a lot of tools and is willing to lend a hand in replacing my steering box and possibly steering setup, it'd be greatly appreciated. It would be amazing to only spend the 300 on a box and not pay another 200-300 for labor at a shop.

Hey all, so I am in dire need of new assemblies and lights. I'm going for usability and not looks or anything necessarily (If I can get something that works great and adds a cool look as well then sure but not necessary at all!). I have LED's in there now that are not stock and they seem to plug in to the original wiring. Will post a pic later from my phone and see what yall think and if I'll have to rewire things .

heres a YouTube video of my linkage, initial part shows the condition it’s in lol and then I pan away to zoom in to the shifter on the t case.

How hard of a task is it to pull the t case and rebuild it? I’ve pulled an engine and tranny before in my old 86 chevy but was years ago. If it’s not a terrible task I may be up to it but I’d have to see if anyone near me is willing to take on that challenge with me since I do not have all of the tools required. Only have a craftsman ratchet set. Also, what is the purpose of the vacuum lines on the t case? Regardless of my loose *** shifter, could those be not allowing it to shift into 4wd?

Hey all, sorry for the long time to reply!! Forgot I had posted this and then when I found the replies I've been busy since. I can't seem to get it to pop out again but haven't had too much time to go do all tests. I have a feeling the front end isn't engaging and the vacuum lines are old and rotted. Thinking of installing a posilok cable to eliminate that factor of why 4x4 doesn't work. I need to have a buddy move the shifter while I'm underneath so I can see if its even turning the level on the T-case enough to even engage it... The 4x4 light on the dash comes on but I'm not sure if that sensor is within the T-case or if it reads where the shifter is and says it's in 4hi. I can post a pic of how rigged and loose the linkage is if you all would like. I'm not sure I mentioned it but I had a guy checkout the truck and he thinks with the amount of play in the linkage it could significantly effect how much the shifter is actually moving the T-case part. I tried putting it in 4hi and doing tight turns ( I know what to look for due to my old chevy I had would do the grinding and all that when on asphalt in a tight turn in 4hi) and I didn't notice anything. I wish I knew if the vacuum lines were working and engaging the front so I'd know if it was just the T-case not fully engaging. Edit: To answer one question, no body lifts. Truck is leveled with a spacer on the top of the front springs and stock height everywhere else. No Carolina squat or any of that **** lmfao

Hey all, thought I'd post this to get some opinions on what to look into replacing or adjusting... So when I shift my truck into 4Hi, my dash 4wd light comes on but when I go and give it gas and start to drive, my shifter goes back into 2wd. I'm assuming this could be due to a worn transfer case linkage? Mine is currently in the same state as when I bought it from the P/O and its held together pretty janky.. has a zip tie or two on it.. lol the t-case shifter is also pretty damn loose but I do feel it "go" into 4hi in a way.. I also don't believe my front end is engaging. I held my hand on the shifter in 4hi and gave it gas and had a buddy check my tires in the front and they were spinning freely (in a bad traction environment). I'm assuming its due to old and cracked vacuum lines. Need opinions on this too, should I go with a 4x4 posi lok system to get rid of trying to chase down vacuum leaks?

Thank you for that! Is it possible to swap turbines within mine and keep the housings? Mainly swapping the exhaust turbine to maybe make pressure easier/faster?

No I have not, I have my quad running the speedo with my tire size and it reads higher than my oem speedometer. Are you assuming my axle ratio is higher? I’m not sure what exactly is in the truck to be quite honest.

Yeah we’ve talked before about my ratios... lol I’m on 35s with I’m assuming 3.55s. Surprisingly though, at like 65 I’m at like 1900 to 2k rpm in 6th

Damn thanks for this info! Yeah I might’ve been on Cummins forum and the google link was for 3rd gens and I didn’t even notice! Reason I mentioned valve lash was one the P/O was seemingly not the best so I have no idea what it’s set at and two I’ve heard that it can help with boost and how the engine is running quite a bit. Whether that’s true or not, I’m not too sure. I had TJ Frey make me a Daily tune and a race tune so I have both. I personally have no clue what I’m doing when it comes to doing a tune on the quad. I wouldn’t mind seeing what you could do with the truck and maybe you’d be able to get the power out of it that I think it should have lol @Mopar1973Man I wanna know how your truck built 15psi in 2nd when you let your lady drive it and give it hell. I only start getting boost in 3rd and it’s maybe 15psi max. Most I’ll see in 2nd even at WOT is like 7psi max and she don’t Move very quick and then I lost that boost when shifting to 3rd (same when going from 4th to 5th) and my tires sure as hell don’t spin. I feel I should have quite a bit of power with a 64 and 125s with the quad wiretapped.

With all this being said, how were people achieving 45psi on a 64mm with stock or 90 horse injectors?? Maybe I need to check valve lash? I’m having TJ do more on the race tune since he said he thinks he can pull more out of it after I told him what I was getting with the current setup. As for Mopar Man’s test he did, I was aware of that and pretty blown away by the result. I remember he commented on an older post of mine and told me about his experiment when I was asking how much a boost leak affects things.

I definitely understand your point!! Also along with **** getting stripped or broken, there’s definitely a lot of entities at play here of what could go wrong and leave you without a vehicle much longer than anticipated! I’d probably just have a new clutch on standby and they come with the tool from SB I believe. Once I’m out of the field I’ll be going to a few transmission shops and seeing if they even think the noise is in that area and not an internal engine problem god forbid lol

See I do hear that rattle of the dual disc but that goes away when I press the pedal down.. I still hear the revolutionary knocking or hitting noise. I’m almost certain it wasn’t there when I had bought the truck. I honestly should just plan a weekend and drop it all but I’ve never done any clutch work in my life. Seems a bit tedious doing the bolts and what not when you look at the manuals for these clutches. I wouldn’t mind having someone who is knowledgeable with them by my side to make sure everything goes smooth. I did watch a video that made the damn near same noise but it was a cracked and/or loose flex plate... obviously there are some similarities between these two parts but they’re also vastly different at the same time lol both are used to turn the engine over and I believe both have the same 8 bolts holding them on. I’ve also heard of those bolts being loose on both flex plates and flywheels and they cause a knocking noise as well.

Thanks for the input Mopar Man! And wow, only 2 hours!? I would assume it’d take much longer. Did you happen to watch the video and if you did, could you hear the clacking noise that seems to not be natural to these noisy motors? My uncle who’s really into trucks and what not said he had a spring get stuck once on his Tacoma and it made a hitting noise. Let my buddy borrow the truck to pickup furniture and he said the clutch seems to be fine and what not and he’s really into cars and knows them well. Not necessarily heavy duty clutches like ours so I’m not sure if he would be able to tell if it was grabbing bad or anything of that nature. Debating on just sending it to a tranny shop or at least bringing it in and having them listen. I’d assume a shop that’s been around for 10+ years would know what noise is what due to location and sound. Just hard to work on my vehicle here since we’re not supposed to in the barracks parking lot and none of my buddy’s here have an abundance of tools so even working at their house isn’t too feasible at times. Been wanting to make a post here seeing if anyone is within an hour or 2 and would be willing to lend a hand doing some of these repairs I wanna do and has a lot of tools for various jobs.

I have not. Never done this before with a vehicle, with a noise this apparent, would it be hard to tell where it's coming from or will it be a definite difference say between bellhousing ( if it's hitting in there) rather than the bottom of the engine or side with the possibility of it being a rod?

Hey all, back again with another problem 🙃 so I have a weird knocking that sounds like it’s coming from the bell housing directly under where the clutch is.. it’s an 01 6 speed with (supposedly) a South Bend Dual Disk. Noise stays even with clutch pedal pressed in, I just don’t hear the discs rattling any more. The noise is proportional with engine rpm. I’m praying to god it’s the flywheel bolts or maybe it’s the original 300k flywheel and the P/O just slapped a new clutch in, which is definitely possible due to other things done on the truck... maybe dual mass flywheel? Clutch spring hitting? Clutch component broken and is stuck in there? I’m almost certain it isn’t injector knock since it did that noise before I swapped with my buddy and he had pretty damn fresh injectors too. YouTube video attached as well. https://youtu.be/WjidpvDkmus you can hear the sound more towards the end when the phone is right under where I’m assuming the clutch assembly is. Hoping the clutch is just on its way out or was installed improperly (not good but better than a rod or bearing)

The alignment shop checked movement out, I thought I may have heard a noise on the right earring but I’m not sure. It may have just been a tool or something and they didn’t say anything about it. The left tire they said the upper ball joint wasn’t in perfect condition but they weren’t worried about it causing problems down the road and ruining my tires. I’ll probably be replacing it in the near future along with tie rods and other components in the front end. I’ll be making a post hopefully tonight in regards to a noise the truck is making on the mechanical side... I have a video too. Really praying it isn’t a rod or bearing. Hoping it’s the flywheel hitting or a spring came out and is knocking in that area. The noise is coming directly under where the clutch assembly sits.

Hey all, posting an update!! Great news. Replaced the wheels and got it aligned and it solved all but one problem I had with the truck!! That’s for a new post I’ll be making shortly lol So, replacing the wheels got rid of the grinding/ vibration on sharper turns at parking lot speed, no more wobble from unbalanced tire(s), and the no **** bolts for the steering box were loose and the guys at the alignment shop torqued those down for me. I believe that’s what the vibration/banging noise coming down from 15 to 10 mph was... damn P/O not doing some things right on this truck has screwed me. As for the turbo, I’m liking it for the most part. For some reason though I’m only pushing 30lbs of boost though. I have a new boost leak due to the home made intake horn having holes in the weld as well as somehow losing a bolt 😒 got one ordered and will be putting that on after I get back from the field in 2 weeks. Once she hits about 10psi she hits pretty hard. But she does have some lag. I just got a race tune from TJ Frey for my quad and I’m wanting him to up it a bit. I feel my mods should be giving more power, or I’m just remembering how it was with a quad4k and 225hp sticks and no proper tuning whatsoever... just straight fuel into the engine.

Yeah the rims are probably fine minus the balancing but I find them ugly lol bout to drop like 2500 on new rims and tires and they'll come balanced so I'm pretty stoked for the new look as well as hopefully eliminating some problems!!

Yes, they had the stick on type on the flat surface inside of the rim. I saw the dirt marks of where there were weights on at least one of the tires. That tire is also badly messed up from possibly an alignment issue and it has been eaten away at.

To anyone following this still, I was underneath the truck for other reasons and noticed I no longer have any weights on my rims along with the front left tire being pretty messed up. I'm ordering new rims and tires very soon and am hoping a few of my issues will resolve. Was also going to change the carrier bearing on the driveshaft but my driveshaft does not have one, previous owner said the short beds didn't come with them. Once I get the new wheels put on I'll go in for an alignment right away and see if its align able and if not then I will get a list of parts to look at getting done asap.

Yes you're correct with the shake going away with turning of the wheel but that is at the 50-65mph zone. My bad for not being clear when speaking about the possibility of the carrier bearing being bad or the driveshaft being out of balance. My issue with the rumbling in the 10-15mph zone was more directed to the possibility of it being a driveshaft and u joint issue.

Could the carrier bearing cause my issues of bad vibration from around 15 down to 10 mph when decelerating with or without the break applied? I read somewhere else that a guy rigged up a mirror and was having the same issue and his drive shaft was shaking crazily.

Thank you for all this info!! I'm planning to get both driveshafts balanced, replace u joints, and then replace the carrier bearing in the rear. Do you have any experience with the carrier bearing causing issues and what symptoms you had? Or anyone following this thread for that matter? Also, I'll look more into these, I'm just kind of confused at what exactly they do? I'll be running 35s again once I buy new tires, would those be too big?

Thank you for the input. I think I'll go to a shop this week and have them check things that may be needing replacement for sure! Some of the noise I believe are just the disks making noise, I found others saying the same thing about dual disc clutches but one specific noise is what I'm worried about. Should I try replacing the fluid in the diff with whatever the owner's manual states and see if that makes any differences? And yes will definitely be exploring. I have a feeling a lot of these issues may just be old U-joints at the very on the drive shaft. Seems like they can make a lot of noise and other issue according to others on the internet. The bolt backing out of the flywheel you mentioned is what I believe may have happened. How awful is it to pull and put back the trannys on these trucks? Thank you for the other insights, it is a 4x4 as well. I'll check for play in those components. Thank you all for these replies!