Cumminsguy5.9

The code that I found is linked in a file in my update post. Anyways the code is U010C which states usually low voltage, short in the + or - on the can bus, or in rare cases the module itself is shot. I should also add that I wouldn't think the vanes are sticking due to a build up as the truck is deleted with a 5" pipe, unless I'm wrong. The truck has been deleted most of its' life I think there is about 88k on the dash now.

If anyone knows how to upload the diagnostic file with all of the PID's from the launch controller I'd be happy to do so if it helps anyone out. I have two files about ~10 minutes in length of graphs and percentages for all the items in the truck. I understand that this is most likely a(n) electrical issue. I'm just confused as to why it won't work for a few minutes every time the truck is started and then it starts working again. I'd assume that if it was electrical or something in the CAN bus it would affect other items as well and wouldn't just start working.

I wanted to start this thread so that I could finish it when I get home from work. I am having some issues with my 2013 ram 2500 and need some insight. A couple of months ago I noticed that on a cold start the truck would blow grey smoke and my exhaust brake would work periodically. I wrote it off as a stuck injector and put some diesel treat in and the grey smoke went away. Every so often the exhaust brake would act up but it wasn't anything major nor did it throw any codes. Just recently maybe 4 weeks ago I got a code. I don't remember the exact code but I do remember some of the problems it said it could be. Low battery voltage, bad wiring in the CAM/CAN BUS, and something else I can't remember at this time. When I start the truck with the code there the brake will not work for a few miles and then its perfectly fine braking and building boost. I would assume that if it was indeed a wiring issue the issue would persist throughout the drive not rectify itself a few miles into it. Which leads me to a battery issue, all the connections are clean and tight and the batteries have good voltage. New of last year this time. The alternator is also charging well. I have another issue unrelated to the turbo, not sure if I should start a new thread or leave it in here. The truck is a manual with a south bend dual disk clutch. When I serviced the truck I overfilled by a quart and am running the royal purple synchromesh which was recommended to me on another forum. And when I tell you this is a very sporadic issue I mean very. I cannot replicate this issue reliably. On 3 separate occasions when in reverse something binds. The first time it happened it felt like I hit something, it stopped the truck that suddenly. Checked around and didn't hit anything, tried backing up again and same thing so I pulled front a bit and backed up again perfectly fine. There are no issues driving normally just backing up every now and then. I don't feel any abnormal amounts of play in anything or see anything blatantly wrong. This one to me is tough because of how rare it happens and there could be so many possibilities. I have graphs of driving the truck normally on my scanner, they show the turbo actuator and all the values i'd think anyone would need/want to see. I will upload them when I get home. The files will also give the code number as well.

Hey Guys. I’m debating on what I want to do here I have a 2013 2500 outdoorsman that I want to put some better seats in. I saw on some other sites that they used the corbeaus lg1 and they said they fit but I would like to keep my power seat on the driver side if possible. My other option would be to do an air ride seat but I haven’t really found much information on if they would even fit with how tall they would be. Im open to any recommendations as well if anyone else has tried doing something like this or found better seats anywhere else.

It had 65k I’ll do them sooner than later. Do you have any recommendations?

Regrettably I have gotten ride of the ole’ second gen and finally went out and bought myself a 4th gen. IMG_2525.MP4

Very interesting.... I will have to look into doing this, they have had more than enough time and chances to get this taken care of.

I was never much a fan of the air dog systems. A couple of my buddies had the same issues with the same pump. They both in turn trashed their vp's. Yeah that is a cigar box

Not too sure of the year it was on the truck when I bought it but it’s the block replacement one. These are the photos of the destruction of that bearing. It sounds like you have the whole system with the dual filters, if I’m not mistaken those were fine. I think the one I had was the second generation.

Alright, for anyone still following this thread heres an update. Took the truck to a local shop and had them do all the work i needed ( started a job working third shift makes it hard to work on things when its decent out) They threw on a new pump and sent me on my way. paid an arm and a leg ( i had them take care of some other issues as well). so thats the good side of things. its now close to the end of feburary and xdp still has yet to get me a refund on my bad pump i bought through them. they now have the pump i bought and my old pump. highly irritating knowing i have a $1500 set of pumps waiting to be tested and an answer. now they are saying that they dont have warranty paperwork from me or the shop both the shop and i have email proof that warranty paperwork was sent in. DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT BUY FROM XTREME DIESEL PERFORMANCE they will screw you any way possible it seems

Just a heads up depending on which gen of the raptor pump you have they only have a single sealed bearing. In short the seal on mine went and caused me a lot of headaches because diesel was able to leak into the motor windings and trashed it. I have since upgraded to the fass titanium signature series 125 gph with the extended filters. I was able to get rid of the stock filter but do make sure you replace the bolts if you choose to go this route you’ll blow your intake gasket. I push 19-20 psi all day with no problems.

I don’t consider any thing as non productive. You ask me something that I should have put in my original post. I do appreciate all the help you guys have given me on this. As far as xdp goes when I approached them about the pump as far as who rebuilt it and where it was tested was inconclusive they didn’t want to give me an answer. I’m just going to send it back for warranty, wait for my money back and buy another from somewhere else. Do you guys have any reputable sources I tried looking for the list @moparman1973 had posted awhile ago but I can’t seem to find it.

Pretty sure about the wiring John I do appreciate the advice though. The wiring is good I cleaned the terminals and put some dielectric grease just to be sure.

Is the p0252 another vp death code? I haven’t been able to find out much info on it. They all say the same thing fuel metering control valve. Yeah I did pay with a cc I’m just kinda upset that they want to play games like the pump wasn’t even a week old and xdp is blaming a “REMAN” injection failure on me. I understand I don’t know much about these trucks but I’ll be dammed if I get ripped off.

What’s going on guys? So as per my last topic the vp44 was my issue for whatever reason my edge wasn’t allowing my ecu to throw any dtc after figuring that out I found the p1628 or whatever the vp death code is can’t remember off the top of my head. Alright, replaced the pump with a reman vp44 from xdp and new fuel filters. Got the truck primed and she took off. Ran for about a day or so and then boom no fuel to the injectors again. Even though I do not like doing it I tried anyways I gave it a breath of ether and cracked the injector lines and still no fuel. Okay fine play hard. Towed the truck home and figured I’d call xdp and ask for my warranty (mind you this pump is only 2 days running on this truck give or take a half day and no I left my wire tap off for this very reason just incase). Anyways talked to xdp and gave them my new code it was throwing which is p0252 fuel metering control valve if I’m not mistaken. (Bad pump?) No to them that means dirt in the pump so I pulled my line into the pump and ran it for I don’t know 10-15 seconds into a 5 gallon bucket and found no dirt. Pulled filters and there was some dirt not much to make me worry though . Maybe I am mistaken but to me that means that 1 filters are working and 2 there probably isn’t dirt in the pump it’s self. Xdp wants to play games and I’m pretty irritated I want to make sure that I’m not in the wrong here guys. P.s. they want me to send the pump out pay shipping to send it to a testing shop and they are two weeks out and if I need a new pump xdp is also two weeks out. -kindest regards Eric

Actually now that I think about it the white smoke burned my eyes. And it would dump a lot like I couldn’t see the road from my house which is about 30~ away from where I was revving it up

I’m not too certain on the white smoke anymore as it’s been too long I can’t remember. the scan tool is from autozone I believe. It allows me to check pid’s dtc’s and some other stuff as well, the edge cts2 monitor also has a code reader feature as it plugs right into the obd2 port. as per the holifex sensor or what I assume that is. It has two wires that go from the back center of the pump in between all the injector ports and they are the top set of wires that go into the control box. The two wires directly below them looking at the control box are the ones that dry rotted and were shorting together. And of course you need some special bit to even crack the pump open but I reinsualted them the best I could and it seemed to have fixed it ? Cummins said that these wires that were shorted are for some control module inside the pump. So I’m not sure if because they were shorted maybe they wiped out that thing on the pump.

@Mopar1973Man Hello , my name is Eric I’m new to this whole diesel thing so go easy on me I’ll try to giv as much info as I can. I bought this truck beginning of February and it needed some much needed tlc the kid that had it before me left it it kinda rough shape. I replaced a lot and a new coat of paint and some body work to fix the rust, new lift pump and a new tuner with a monitor to top it off. (Edge juice with attitude cts2 monitor). Recently I’ve had some issues I can’t quite explain , a couple of weeks ago the truck would act like it was in limp mode it was almost like it was stuck in 3rd gear maybe and if I would step on it I would get no power, ( so I immediately thought trans was the issue) drained the trans replaced the filter and new fluids for it too. Took it for a test drive and same thing limp mode but it would only do it so often say if od kicked in and I was going up a hill or something like that. Took it back to the house and if I put it in neutral and revved it only sometimes it would dump white smoke. So I started thinking fueling I checked my fass 100gph titanium signature series lift pumps water separator for water and no water. Reprimed the system and still white smoke. Okay maybe bad vp44 called cummins and yup they confirmed all my symptoms pointed to the vp. I should add that I can also not get any codes to show none pending I have checked with a scanner and key trick. Okay so I started doing a little research and I found that the map and iat sensor could also cause this issue and I tested the iat and ohmed out within specs and when I checked the map sensor I left it in the block and watched my boost gauge revved it up to about 2500 rpm and got about 3psi of boost on a stock turbo with the adaptor for the wastegate from edge I assume. To me kinda seemed low. So I had to wait for parts to come in, so I parked the truck and when my parts came the next day I went to go and start it and no start so I checked pressure at lp and I have ~19 psi to the pump, cracked injectors and I found no fuel squirting out so I was thinking the go finally let go this time. Got it into my drive way and cummins said they thought the input shaft snapped off the vp, pulled it and I was able to spin the shaft and I saw fuel squirting out the outlet port so that tells me no snapped shaft. Did some more digging around and I found two wires underneath what appears to be a holifex sensor that is tapped off the edge? So I did continuity checks and looked good re insulated them because the insulation dry rotted off of them and threw it back in, reprimed it bam like clock work I have fuel to my injectors weird thing though is I forgot to tighten #5 and with the key in run and engine not running but the lp running it was spitting fuel out of it. The truck refuses to start off of a shot of ether directly into the intake (I had the air horn and grid heater removed so I just sprayed it in there ). My buddy told me maybe the ground from the grid heater was my issue so I reinstalled that and still no fire and still no codes. So my question is is why no go I guess could it be a bad cps or something? I have not tried the bypass for starting the truck with out the ecu/ecm whatever it’s called these days. I do have 12v at the vp connector. I am still very confused as to why fuel was comming out of an injector line when the truck wasn’t even running/cranking. 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 quad cab sport 187k edge juice with attitude/ cts2 monitor fass 100gph titanium signature series everything else stock with some minor rebuilding and a paint job