krj

Yeah, whats up with that?

A bit of a timeline.After gauge install and with stock lift pump: 12.5 idle, 9 WOTAfter Raptor install: 15 idle, 10.5 WOT1/2 turn on adjuster screw: 18.5 idle, 12.5 WOTNow I feel better about heading out to Baja!

Yeah, I found that fuse last night. What I don't know how to do is add a relay to it. Wiring is definitely not my strong suit.

I ordered mine from Diesel Auto Power, and yes they did come with new copper washers. As to the differing thickness, I don't know.

I'm looking to make my trailer light plug into an "isolated" power source to charge my camper battery. When I say "isolated" I mean it's "on" when the truck is running and "off" when the truck is not running. Currently the trailer outlet is always "on", regardless of whether the truck is running or not. Is there an easy way to change this? I was going to follow the steps in this thread http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 , but can't find an available fuse in either of my fuse boxes that is only hot when truck is on. Any ideas?

I'm not really sure what you mean. The only "cross" I recall was between the vacuum pump and power steering pump. It sounds like you've got those together as a unit already, but are having trouble getting the unit back on, is that correct?If so, make sure the bracket bolt on the block is going through the proper hole in the vac/ps pump assembly then just move things around until the gears mess and your able to slide it into place. I found it helpful to have the air intake out of the way.

@ Zuk,I haven't noticed much difference, but I've only driven it for 50 miles (it's not my daily driver). I don't have a programmer. I'm probably not your best litmus test, as power was not my motivation. My injectors had 200K+ on them and I'm heading to Baja for a couple months; injector swap was more preventative measures than upgrade. I choose the RV275 over stock in hopes to improve fuel efficiency. @Ilikeoldfords,Get new O rings for the connector tubes. Watch pepsi71oceans youtube videos on injector installs. In addition to everything he removes, I also removed the engine hoist hook to ease in getting the valve cover off. It's not that hard, just a bit awkward back there on 5 and 6. This site is a wealth of knowledge if you have any questions. Good luck.

Your not kidding!After installing RV275 injectors, Big Line Kit and fuel gauge last week I just ordered a Raptor today...

I went out after dinner and changed the fuel filter. The old one looked dirtier than I'd expect for 8500 mostly easy road miles, but not horrible. That brings up the how many miles on a fuel filter before change question? Anyway, after filter change I'm getting 13 at idle and 10 at WOT. Pretty low when I look at the numbers in the "Fuel pressure" poll, but still safe, I think...Guess I'm going to have to upgrade, but it may not be for a little while.Recommendations on a pump? I lean towards easy of use, longevity and fuel efficiency. Oh, and price...

Thanks for the repliesFuel filter has 1500 more miles to go (may change anyway and see what it does to the numbers)Lift pump is stock, about 60K miles old.Tightened up the needle valve fittings, cranked some more on the metric adapter/elbow fittings, re-bleed the system (#'s 1, 3, & 4).Fired her up and pressure went right up to 12.5 again. Short test ride showed numbers mostly staying above 10, but dropping down to 7psi when I got on her a bit in 4th gear...Is my new fuel gauge telling me to get a new lift pump?

Just installed new injectors, Big Line Kit and Isspro fuel gauge.Fired her up yesterday & happily watched my fuel pressure climb to 12. After a short test drive and check over I noticed 2 small fuel leaks. One up top of filter where the needle valve is, was hoping this was just due to the Permatex thread sealer I used not being dry yet. The other is at the other end and seems to be coming from the push-lock fitting. Very small, couldn't see it but when I felt around the fitting my hand came away with diesel on it.I was going to take it to work today (50 mile round trip) and see what happens.Just fired her up and fuel pressure was only 4. I nervously watched for a minute or so and it never went higher than 6. Got scared & shut her down. Think I'll take the Suby to work...Any input or opinions?

No leaking at the lines to crossover tubes.On the lower end (VP side) seems to coming from the pushlock. I did not use any sealant there, as the directions only said to heat the hose and lube the barbs to aid in install. Not leaking alot. No visual dripping, but when I was checking things by feel my hand came away with diesel on it.Upper side it was coming from the needle valve fitting. That (I was hoping) was just due to the Permatex thread sealant I used not being dry yet. On initial install I snugged those fittings down then backed them off to a convenient orientation, may have to change that. 50 mile round trip to work today, will see how things go.

Very timely post.Just fired my truck up today after installing my new RV275 injectors, Big Line Kit, and Isspro fuel gauge. Everything went well, but noticed a little fuel leakage at both ends of the Big Line kit. From your post, can I assume these are "the leaky connections" that will clear up in a few days?

They're all in, thanks again guys.Used a combo of wooden dowel and hammer (gently) for the 1st 3, then a combo of a 19mm box wrench levered on the rearward cap bolt until I could get the cap underneath (as in Mikes above post) to get em the last bit.Not very hard, just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to f%$k something up.Connector rod O rings tomorrow am, and hope to have her up & running after that.One last fuel gauge question & I should be good to go. Mike, what diameter air brake line do you use in your setups? Tried to match the diameter of the nylon line that came with my boost kit, but smallest that Napa (1 of 3 in my area) could do was 1/4".

Thanks guys, I'll try a little more "persuasion" to get them back in tonight. I used the bolt/screw driver trick to get them out no problem. Getting them back in was my concern.In regards to the connector O rings; a little more Stealership bashing is in order! It took me 3 calls to the parts department to find someone who actually knew what I was talking about! When I finally got a hold of someone who had a clue (once I provided him with a part #), he quoted me a price of $40, almost twice what I've seen them advertised for!Two calls to local diesel shops and I've got a set waiting for my pickup tomorrow am, $20.Hopefully you won't hear from me anytime soon!Kevin

Yeah, it's me again with more newbie questions... Installing my new RV275 injectors, before I bugger something up wanted to ask a question/get confirmation. My FSM says to push new injectors in by hand, and (in bold) NOT to use any additional tools to force them in. The install videos I've watched also say the same thing and show them popping right in. Well, that's not working, even with minimal additional mechanical help. Yes, all the injector tubes are out. Yes, I did put oil on the the new 'O' rings and the new copper washers are well seated and not slipping off. Yes the old copper washers are out as well. I double checked the receipt from Diesel Auto Power and it confirms they are RV275 injectors for 98.5-2002 Dodge Cummins.#'s stamped on new injectors: 0432193635 Brasil 908(circled) 20118 4183#'s stamped on old injectors: 0432193629 989(circled) 964 4828What gives? What am I missing? Should I ignore the warning of no force and take a rubber mallet to them (going to be hard on #5 & 6)? I really just want to get this thing back together and on down the road.Oh yeah, connector tubes. All the 'O' rings look good, but #'s 1, 2 & 5 had some build up above the 'O' ring. Was able to get it cleaned off with a plastic scraper & some biodiesel I had kicking around. Is that legit? Should I get some new 'O' ring for the tubes? This truck is new to me as of June, as far as I know (I have all the receipts) the injectors and tubes haven't been monkeyed with. The injectors are dirty, but truck was running well.Input?KevinP.S. Despite how it may seem, I am not a complete mechanical idiot. I have rebuilt numerous gasoline engines, but the diesels are new to me & I just really don't want to f*%k anything up. Especially considering I'm leaving on a 5-7K road trip to MX in a month...

Hag, thanks for the heads up on Gould.Got your message after I had already bought a new (remanned) pump from Napa. My time is limited and, as stated earlier, a local shop was recommending a replacement anyway. While not extremely difficult to get out (as far as I can tell I did nothing wrong), it was much easier to get in with the intake and TPS out of the way.Thanks again for the info. And now on to a new newbie thread...Kevin

All right, more newbie questions. Thanks in advance for the patience and info!I'm in the middle of replacing my vacuum/ps pumps. Also have a new set of injectors to install, as well as Big Line kit & fuel gauge. I was planning on doing each task individually, but after pulling the V & PS pumps out I realized how much easier it would be to get them back in with out the intake and APPS sensor in the way. Since they need to be removed for changing injectors, I'm wondering if there is any reason I can't pull them, re-install the V & PS pumps, install the Big Line kit, gauge, and new injectors, put everything back together, bleed the fuel system, fire her up, & then bleed the PS system & be done with it.Yes or No?At dripley, whitelghtnin, & diesel4life, thanks for the input in gauge wiring.At haggar, thanks for the heads up on fixinrams.BTW, a remanned vacuum pump at Napa is $460, local Stealership price is $960! Both include the vacuum to PS adapter. According to Stealership (as well as Napa) you can't get just the adapter...

Wiring. What are you guys doing for wiring up the lights on Isspro fuel gauges? The directions say connect to the dimmer switch. After pulling the dash trim panel and dimmer switch, I'm at a loss. Any reason I couldn't just run a wire to a fuse in the box which is only hot when the key is on? Obviously, either way, the other wire will be ground.As always, Thanks.

Finally got around to pulling my vacuum and power steering pumps in order to address an oil leak. A pre-purchase inspection showed a crack in the coupler between the two pumps causing the leak. The shop suggested replacing both the pumps as well as the coupler based on the assumption that the crack could have caused mis-alignment of internal shafts leading to wear, etc. Or there could have been some mis-alignment which caused the crack.The vacuum pump, which includes the coupler, runs $460 and the PS pump is $62, not exactly chump change. My local Napa can't source just the coupler.Looking for opinions. Is there validity to the potential damage to the pumps from a cracked coupler? If so I'll just buck up and pay. I don't want to have to this again, it was kind of a PIA getting that thing out.Thanks for the input.

Thanks for the shopping list Ryan.I like the idea of the big line kit in the system. How does that steering column mount fit within the existing dash gauges?Just to make sure I've got this straight, the advantage of the needle valve over the isolator is that you can shut off the fuel to the gauge in case of a leak. Correct?

I'm about to order an Isspro EV fuel gauge for my truck from Vulcan. Their 'kit' comes with: "isolator, 30" universal gauge hose with adapters, tubing kit w/ fittings". For the fuel pressure access, I'm assuming I need the tapped 12mm bajo with seals, as opposed to the other push lock fuel tee's offered.I've read alot on here, and other forums, of guys using needle valves in the system as well (or in place) of the isolator, also a tee fitting in there to still preform direct fuel pressure tests. Believe Mike uses air brake line, I would guess that would be in place of the "universal gauge hose"? Just wondering if I would be better off putting my own 'kit' together, and if so, what would the experts (that's you) suggest. Once again, a newbie thanks you for all your input.Kevin

Ordered a set this morning. Think I'll eat the core charge and keep the originals as back up.

That was fast.Thanks Mike, you da man!Kevin

Thanks for the input guys.Leaning towards getting a set of RV275's and having one less thing to worry about. If I get to it before the trip, great. If not at least I have them on hand. @ Randy Hale - I googled 'Diesel Auto Performance' and was directed to 'Diesel Auto Power', which had their own brand (NOT Bosch) of RV275's for $260. Is that what you were talking about? In my limited reading (and more limited knowledge), I've gotten the impression to stay away from off brand/knock off injectors. Opinions?@ Mike Nelson - What will it take for me to by-pass the 20 posts in order to get access to the injector cleaning video? At this stage, being a Cummins owner for all of 3 months, I don't don't have much info to contibute. Just need to soak up as much as possible.@ ISX - How does one go about performing a pop test on injectors? Forgive me if that info is else where and I haven't come across it yet. As always, all info is welcome and appreciated!Kevin