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  1. A bit of a timeline.After gauge install and with stock lift pump: 12.5 idle, 9 WOTAfter Raptor install: 15 idle, 10.5 WOT1/2 turn on adjuster screw: 18.5 idle, 12.5 WOTNow I feel better about heading out to Baja!
  2. Yeah, I found that fuse last night. What I don't know how to do is add a relay to it. Wiring is definitely not my strong suit.
  3. I ordered mine from Diesel Auto Power, and yes they did come with new copper washers. As to the differing thickness, I don't know.
  4. I'm looking to make my trailer light plug into an "isolated" power source to charge my camper battery. When I say "isolated" I mean it's "on" when the truck is running and "off" when the truck is not running. Currently the trailer outlet is always "on", regardless of whether the truck is running or not. Is there an easy way to change this? I was going to follow the steps in this thread http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 , but can't find an available fuse in either of my fuse boxes that is only hot when truck is on. An
  5. I'm not really sure what you mean. The only "cross" I recall was between the vacuum pump and power steering pump. It sounds like you've got those together as a unit already, but are having trouble getting the unit back on, is that correct?If so, make sure the bracket bolt on the block is going through the proper hole in the vac/ps pump assembly then just move things around until the gears mess and your able to slide it into place. I found it helpful to have the air intake out of the way.
  6. @ Zuk,I haven't noticed much difference, but I've only driven it for 50 miles (it's not my daily driver). I don't have a programmer. I'm probably not your best litmus test, as power was not my motivation. My injectors had 200K+ on them and I'm heading to Baja for a couple months; injector swap was more preventative measures than upgrade. I choose the RV275 over stock in hopes to improve fuel efficiency. @Ilikeoldfords,Get new O rings for the connector tubes. Watch pepsi71oceans youtube videos on injector installs. In addition to everything he removes, I also removed the engine hoist hook
  7. Your not kidding!After installing RV275 injectors, Big Line Kit and fuel gauge last week I just ordered a Raptor today...
  8. I went out after dinner and changed the fuel filter. The old one looked dirtier than I'd expect for 8500 mostly easy road miles, but not horrible. That brings up the how many miles on a fuel filter before change question? Anyway, after filter change I'm getting 13 at idle and 10 at WOT. Pretty low when I look at the numbers in the "Fuel pressure" poll, but still safe, I think...Guess I'm going to have to upgrade, but it may not be for a little while.Recommendations on a pump? I lean towards easy of use, longevity and fuel efficiency. Oh, and price...
  9. Thanks for the repliesFuel filter has 1500 more miles to go (may change anyway and see what it does to the numbers)Lift pump is stock, about 60K miles old.Tightened up the needle valve fittings, cranked some more on the metric adapter/elbow fittings, re-bleed the system (#'s 1, 3, & 4).Fired her up and pressure went right up to 12.5 again. Short test ride showed numbers mostly staying above 10, but dropping down to 7psi when I got on her a bit in 4th gear...Is my new fuel gauge telling me to get a new lift pump?
  10. Just installed new injectors, Big Line Kit and Isspro fuel gauge.Fired her up yesterday & happily watched my fuel pressure climb to 12. After a short test drive and check over I noticed 2 small fuel leaks. One up top of filter where the needle valve is, was hoping this was just due to the Permatex thread sealer I used not being dry yet. The other is at the other end and seems to be coming from the push-lock fitting. Very small, couldn't see it but when I felt around the fitting my hand came away with diesel on it.I was going to take it to work today (50 mile round trip) and see what ha
  11. No leaking at the lines to crossover tubes.On the lower end (VP side) seems to coming from the pushlock. I did not use any sealant there, as the directions only said to heat the hose and lube the barbs to aid in install. Not leaking alot. No visual dripping, but when I was checking things by feel my hand came away with diesel on it.Upper side it was coming from the needle valve fitting. That (I was hoping) was just due to the Permatex thread sealant I used not being dry yet. On initial install I snugged those fittings down then backed them off to a convenient orientation, may have to chang
  12. Very timely post.Just fired my truck up today after installing my new RV275 injectors, Big Line Kit, and Isspro fuel gauge. Everything went well, but noticed a little fuel leakage at both ends of the Big Line kit. From your post, can I assume these are "the leaky connections" that will clear up in a few days?
  13. They're all in, thanks again guys.Used a combo of wooden dowel and hammer (gently) for the 1st 3, then a combo of a 19mm box wrench levered on the rearward cap bolt until I could get the cap underneath (as in Mikes above post) to get em the last bit.Not very hard, just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to f%$k something up.Connector rod O rings tomorrow am, and hope to have her up & running after that.One last fuel gauge question & I should be good to go. Mike, what diameter air brake line do you use in your setups? Tried to match the diameter of the nylon line that came with my boo
  14. Thanks guys, I'll try a little more "persuasion" to get them back in tonight. I used the bolt/screw driver trick to get them out no problem. Getting them back in was my concern.In regards to the connector O rings; a little more Stealership bashing is in order! It took me 3 calls to the parts department to find someone who actually knew what I was talking about! When I finally got a hold of someone who had a clue (once I provided him with a part #), he quoted me a price of $40, almost twice what I've seen them advertised for!Two calls to local diesel shops and I've got a set waiting for my
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