keydl

I got my first 4x4 and when up where I hunted last year, and promptly sank in 7 foot when the crust broke, took from mid morning till nearly dawn to get back up on the crust to back out. The Wagoneer would not do what my friends flat fender would with 9.00:16's on, but now I know to watch the trees. When the green branches go in the snow, it is probably deep.Chains are the law in some parts of the country at some times, a set adds 50 to 300 pounds ballast, depending. Some places where the ground is sand and the moisture content is down make good traps for people that go to play. I just chained up before going in to recover the stuckee. That and an anchor to back up with if it is to soft.The last time , I just eased in to a fellows drive on a AAA call and the front end sank in a little puddle in the drive. A fairlead, an anchor and a 10k winch backed it up, six feet was all that was needed. As one of my bosses used to say ' a 30 in new snow is an excuse for being late'My biggest use for 4wheel was to get in the drive at a friends house, park at the bar across the street or use 4lo for 2 steps in a 900 ft drive, one by the road was about 70 ft and coming out took real care not to slide onto the highway.keydl

You just think she is going to get you all of that.keydlThe word is choice

Have to find my 'Rubber Manufactures Assoc. Handbook' - it lists the current sizes and capacitys that are made. Not what the dealers choose to vend. Wait time can be 6 weeks if they are in the warehouse and six month if they are waiting for orders sufficent to pay a setup to make the size. Tall tires don't fall to the bottom of small potholes, wide tires battle the ruts in the road. For those that watch the ruts grow when studs first came out - some were 3 in deep and a foot wide. Really put 9.00x16 tires on rails, I towed a lowered hot rod off of 6th Street in Denver because the frame grounded with the wheels in the ruts. Different problem - the oil on the toll booth lanes, with a few drops of water it has less traction than slick ice. I picked up a tractor with new lugs on the drivers and thought the brakes were wonkey coming in to the toll booth but leaving the problem was very clear - no traction, and there were about a dozen rain drops on the windshield, Another time pulling up slope and the tach come up but the speedometer did not ( spedo fed from the front wheel like an air cooled VW ) it would hold 40 but I normally could get 65. The cars were still doing 80. I think that a real invention for 4x4 pickups would be portal boxes on the axle ends so the center on gravity could be changed, up like a H1 or down for the road and look like a 2 wheel drive, change the final drive ratio by swapping a couple of gears in the portal box with a 9/16ths wrench. Frankland Quickchange has the gears for the quick change rearend. posting.php?mode=reply&f=68&t=164# keydl

High percentage of the hiway tractors use additives, that is why they are stacked around the fuel desk. I am aquainted with a couple that are using 2cycle now, one keeps good records and is running 400:1 - 81 less gallons this year 720 more miles run, 4 days longer, opened the 8th gallon of 2cycle, using 2cycle is $175 less money spent, if i remember correctly, on the pickle harvest. The other has trouble getting all the fuel rects, let alone the number of days out. Both are Detroit 60's, with electronic common rail injection.Theory is that the heavy part of the 2 cycle serves as upper cyl lube before washing down into the oil, the same heavy molecules are like marbles in a bag of BB's to take the pressure in the rotor to pump head, plunger to sleeve and under the pinlel in the injector. I am not sure why the sharp high pitched pre combustion noise quit but mine no longer sounds like the fuel is contaminated with gas, sounds like the old hi sulphur fuel.keydl

Spotlight, air horn, deer whistles, onboard air, remote tire pressure gage, backup camera, fire extingser, headlights, relay set for headlight, LED lights, CO2 tank & regulator, spring lift for tailgate, cargo handling systems - nets, e-trac, tie downs, loading ramps, headake rack, winch, fairlead, cargo sling, coolant filter, bypass filter, auto trans bypass filter, tailgate lock, wheel locks, infared thermometer, braided stainless brake lines, inverter, improved starter contacts, replacement alternator that is also a welder, security cameras and recorder for 12V, extra fuel tank, extra sound or thermal insulation, fender flares,mud flaps, factory service manual, shelf above sunvisors, cargo control behind front seat, upgrade parts like u-joints or repackable wheel bearings

Chrysler made some runners, I had a 57 Plymouth with a 230 that ran above 22 mpg most of the time, a 67 Chrysler with a 383 3 speed that did 18 or better and lasted about 411k before I gave it away, a 60 Dodge pickup with a 318 4 speed 3/4 ton did 14 mpg the first 150k and the next 100k did about 12 and used oil 1 or 2 qts per tankful, a 74 Dodge with 383 auto 220k and the seats looked late model, a 69 Chrysler auto did 19 mpg and broke the converter at 320k.Put more parts on then and they run more miles.keydl

I used to drive for a living but when the tarrifs didn't increase with inflation I found something else to do. Dad ran a garage and one of my chores was to sweep the place out after school when I got past half as tall as the broom, make sure the cores got back to the tool room and drag the scrap out. Most years he would close for wheat harvest on the family farm.I spent 5 years fixing radars for the NavySo now people think that I am OC because I drive an old truck and it never comes home on the hook. Even new ones get a ride if they are not taken care of, I can think of few things that I like less than waiting for the wrecker.I think that next time I will use oil instead of grease, grease is a little messy if you lay on the battery to do something.If you do chains they are much easier if you tie the side chains in place through a handhole then lay them carefully in the track and back onto them. Untie the inner side chain and tie to the other end to reave the ends togather to close the buckle.After the inner is buckled take the line and reave the outer side chain to close the gap to buckle it. If you did all 4 now is the time to pull up about a wheel turn and then check the length to buckle the outer chain. You want as little play in the cross chains as possible. Here is the part that all of the instructions have in favor of selling more parts - skip the tensioners, use the nylon 1/4 in line used to carry the chains on to the wheel ans put a bowline knot to the middle link between cross chains and cross the wheel with a star pattern to link the cewnter links ( 5 or 6 pattern ) and pull as much tension into the line as you can ( the stuff breaks around 500# ) and tie off with a taut line or trucker hitch. They will stay in place with no rattles past 45 mph and will not fret wear the tires.It is possible to do an 18 wheeler in about the same time that the chain renters can do a car, even with 3 railers. Just buckle the center first.Do it a couple times in the sand when it is not cold and store them so they will lay out in order - not twisted - I usually thread center links on the line when the are in a box, when on a rack they go on so they come off in the right order. I am not a fan of disorder in heavy wet snow and wind with slush on the road.keydl

If you are running steel wheels the 17.5 size is narrow & tall on 8 bolt, going on up to 19.5 starts getting back to steamroller shape.Skinny is good for MPG, the diameter needs to figure into the final gearing. They are not easy to find if you hit something in the road and need a pair of spares. They are easy to beat with out unbolting the wheel on the outers, though. If the rearing is right with what you have, stick with it.The square foot of frontal area going down the road does not change when it goes up on a lift, but the increased distance from the road seems to make people drive faster, Pushing the wheel offset out really increases the strain on ball joints, tie rod ends and ball joints. The combination seems to go with an unusually high percentage of people that try to make the trucks fly. Now if they are successful, no problem, but they keep coming down, and it is the landing that is a problem. Glad that it is not my parts bill.One thing that is absent from most tire information is rolling resistance at full load, I am about ready to advocate it added to the treadwear, traction and temperature stability on the side wall of the tire.One of the 'secrets' to stability is to have the KPI and the tire centerline intersect at the loaded radius of the tier, they called it centerline steering on the old International trucks ( before power steering )keydl

When you say that you want to stay stock size, you are looking at the Tach?I prefer 1-2 sizes up if they will fit, a set is $20 more and they last a third longer. Mine came with 235's and has 245's but the tach says that 265's will run. YMMV What you pull and the route will have more to do with it than any thing else. My little one needs 195's to get the gearing right.I have used Cooper on a Ford van - they ran 95k to 4/32 nds. 235-15 six plyI have run Toyo on a Wagoneer - the ran 110k to 5/32 nds. 12.5 -15 six ply The trailer needed tires.I have run Toyo Highway Rib on the drivers on a Freightlinner for 385k to 3/23 ndsIf you stay on the highway a 4 or 5 rib design with 3/8 in long sipes crossing the ribs will move almost as well as chains and better than most studs. Just remember not to lock them up.The AT design has almost as many edges to catch the snow pack but don't seem to do as well for me, The MT tires need chains when the loose stuff that they work very well in packs down and they are worthless on freezing rain - well not quite they still hold air. Cutting sipes on MT helps a lot but the mileage is in the rib design.keydl

I generally do my PM after the first killing freeze on the 36k list, I keep adding things to the truck so if it was covered then I skip the PM.Valve to shut off the the coolant to the heater core so the A/C works better in the summer and if the heater core leaks I just close the valves.Coolant filter puts me on a 5 year change cycle same as the heavy trucks with the right coolant.Oil bypass filter - with the external oiling system and full flow filter changes at 6 mo the oil will test past 30k miles.Trans bypass filter with a shut off valve - turn it on for a day or 2 when it is not heavy loaded every month. Change the oil and adjust the bands every other year.Grease job, spring and fall, spring I pressure wash the lower half and grease it after ( Don't want road chemicals to get it ) and in the fall ( I don't want space for the junk to get in to any parts ).On the list - I am going to make polycarbonate grill covers with 2- 1in holes for the fingers to put them in and provide air up to 60 F, below40F put plugs in the finger holes. Larger spray skirts on the inner fender. Mud flaps that cover but will not get under the wheel so they can't be torn off in the mud.Seven of ten no start calls to the AAA are caused by bad battery terminal connections, so I am a bit of a bug on that, every fall. They sell a tool to shape the terminals and posts on the automotive type connection - make both sides shinny. Then very completely cover all metal back to the insulation and the post. If the air can't get in it can't corrode. First time is a little work but after that it is easy. If the bolt is rusty replace it, covered in grease, if the terminal is streched, cut a slice off so it can clamp tight.Check the tires, 4/32 nds is the limit for snow country, no they don't write tickets until 2/32 nds but bald tires make good sleds. Check the air pressure it goes down with the temp and running the Interstate on half inflated tires is what the Ford-Firestone thing was about, the flex causes tread seperations and zipper failure. Whaling down the Interstate and having a tire go thump, thump, thump and then whang, whang as it beats up the bottom of the truck with a bit of tread that is coming off of the tire is annoying but a zipper failure is impressive - the side wall breaks at the shoulder for 8 in to a foot and the noise is impressive = even 3 cars back. But the instant flat is a challenge for the first time.Ninety % of the ire failures happen in the last 10% of the legal tread ( down to 2/32 ). And changing one in the salt slush at -20F is less than fun.keydl

That's a bingo on the bioheat list, max of 20% of transesterfied on the old seals - mostly from nitril and viton. Biodiesel will have to wait until after the IP is resealed. Cummins sheet gave 2002 as the date they approve B20, so I expect that is the date they changed seal formulation.Thankskeydl

The sales location is central FL where they have maybe 10 days a year that the heat in the house is turned on.Four hours at 27 F is a panic and a freeze is a bonanza for plumbers for the broken well pumps and pipes.It is an example of tie in marketing from my point of view, but the post is for consideration that the difference between soybase biodiesel and soyoil is large and it is easy to miss a word while reading the contents in the store.Mike's first reaction is normal for people that plan ahead and are accustomed to dealing with the original hard water problem, ice. I have seen it cold enough that the propane does not want to come out of the tank, start a fire next to the tank and it goes back to work, so I understand the point.If the shipping label is the same format as the other products that had price posted they want $19.95 a gallon and the supermarket is $3.78 for 3 quarts.On a discussion for old MB cars there are people writing they use 1/2 virgin vegtable oil but not any that make a point with gallons and miles.The people that did the Veggie Van got pretty good at r&r on the injectors while they learned, and settled on biodiesel. They then wrote a book.So, for the temps above 40 F will soyoil substitute for 2cycle? Do you need twice as much? Will the injectors need cleaned? Regularly? :)It is also the first additive that listed contents other than trade secret that I have picked up.keydl

Your terms of use are very specific.The use by Ford or GM users would of normal expectation be 'buyer beware' because there are no resident experts.However the removal of mechanical improbabilitys and spam is a time consideration.Not all mechanical improbabilities equate to the 'dog food diet'.If the venue is here you may find someone in need of a soapbox.I would maintain the files such that the parts could be relocated and redirected casually.A heading like Ford, unsupervised or GM,nonverified to push the point.keydl

.....and the cost is?Diesel pickups are more alike than different...paint,axles,wheels,tires,gages....so there is a lot of information that will fit all.I see no downside unless you read slow.keydl

If you want to build a stack, galv 90 deg 4 in elbows are just under $40 the each.Losses in a tee are nearly the same as the elbows so a pair is a looks thing.If you elbow up with galv pipe you may be under $100, including the black paint.Truck-Pro has the parts for heavy trucks.keydl

I thought the connection with the Dieselplace.com trest showing the soy based biodiesel at 2% was the best at improving test results was in some way connected to the marketing of what appears to be straight vegtable oil as an additive :)Marketing at its best!keydl

I stopped by Truck-Pro today and they had a new additive 'Liquid Power'. The label said it was soyoil and trade secret :)keydl

First for the information to be easily replicated ( think science ) the record keeping needs to be consistantand resistant to distraction. Having driven commercially the bookkeeper wants the receipts and is not inclined to pay the miles until the paperwork is in good order.If the fuel gage works or the trip odometer works there is a good guess as to the amount of a fill up. I found it hard to measure oz fron a gallon jug that did not remain the same shape so I got some pints and refill them.Just below 1/2 fuel gage is 16 gallon, fuel low light is 23. Another way is to add ozs and pump gallons or a $50is 16 2/3 gallon - get a bag of peanuts and a drink and its 16 gallons = 1 pint. But I am a slacker and just add the pint for $50. But when the low fuel winks once the 23 gallons gets 24 ozs so it is close. I collect a receiptfrom habit and if distracted toss a scrap sheet with what I remember in with the rest. One of the things that I have used this for is maint because if the fuel use goes up there is something not working right, a drop of 8-12%can be a partially plugged injector especially if the boost is low by 2-3 # or it could be the current need if anair cleaner element.Because there are quite a few that say no improvement and some have a gap in the data that they presentfrom format as in quoting tank capacity for fuel amount rather than fuel pumped for a full tank or consumptionper time period.rather than distance. Uncorrected oversize tires can be allowed for with a GPS reading or a highway yardstick( Mile Marker) comparison to the odometer reading.The AMSOIL claim that the 100:1 can be fed to 20:1 engines would indicate that it may be possible to use 1/5ththe amount of the dino stuff. I haven't anything that old but have used it in a 32:1 chainsaw for a couple of long weeks and no problems, that is 1/4 of the dino oil recommended.I don't know if a direct comparison would work, whether some remains for a half tank or a tank as well as theheel in the tank ( intended to isolate contaminates, it is possible to tap the last tablespoon from the tank but that would collect the water first every time). That is why the advocacy for 3-4 fillups with each and all runsfor results. So fillups of 21, 22, 22, 23 mpg looks like 22.5 and not 22 because of the trend. And 23, 22, 22, 21looks like trouble, look for the thing breaking.I think that I will stay with the dino for another 14k fir a total of 20 k and look at the maint log and fuel records.With a history on dino 2 cycle to compare the synthetic to I would cut the ratio on the synthetic until the other numbers looked like the dino numbers. I can see a real possibility of saving money by spending money, the costto find out? The difference in cost of a couple of gallons and 3-4 hours keyboarding to push the numbers around.With a spread sheet - column for fuel gallons, odometer read, MPG, full average MPG, average last 10 MPG, fuel cost and fuel cost per mile. Since columns are cheap I might put monthly cost and others if you have ideas.So if somebody wants to start on the other end and start with 1/4 oz synthetic and work up there would be noproblems accounting for the heel in treating the tank, just add for capacity plus the fillup at each level and stop when there are no further benefits from more 2cycle for a couple of tanks.I would be very interested if someone works up this way. One other thing - the 2% biodiesel was best at lube for raw ULSD fuel and the snowmobile 2cycle prevents gelling so the addition of synthetic 2cycle to straight biodiesel to see if it prevents gelling or how much it takes to cure geling. A half gallon with a half pint in a 5 qt oil jug in a -10 environment ( my freezer won'tmake it and something is real wrong if the back yard does) leaves room to add either stuff to find a -10 pour point or cloud point. The real cost in the cold country is time because the mix will be truck fuelafter looking at it. :)keydl

I like the design on the site and I want to say Thank You for the research on keeping the old iron running, both of mine were complaining about the ULSD that I was feeding them. They are quieter now and the little one is back in the usual range for fuel consumption. I had the information but failed to connect the dots on fuel lubrication and assigned to high a value on the advertising. Collecting the safety sheets for contents was excellent!keydl

Well dorkweed is ranting on 'cleaning' a diesel fuel system and failed to describe the main reason that they need cleaned - running in hot and shutting down with the pistons still hot. That cokes the fuel in the tips, with good fuel and a full flow through the tip the coke will be worn away, but they want to drive them the same as a gas engine. The one thing to do not to need to 'clean' the fuel system is ease in the last 5 or 10 min coming off the road. Unless you live at the top of the pass and drag a full load home it should be 2-3 min to drop the pyrometer under 400 deg with the engine oil temp matching the coolant so that there is not a major amount of heat to soak to the fuel.The additives for increasing the cetane # were originally sold for when the fire would not light consistantly - a random miss with a cold engine. If the miss is regular there is normally a mechanical fault but a random miss that clears with a quart of gas in 50 gallons of fuel is the proof of low cetane. Gas is a no-no when the mechanic talks to the customer so the additive is on the shelf. This is a long time back, by the 60's I didn't find ANY bad fuel other than that pulled from the bone yard that was 5-10 years old. But there is profit to be made selling the stuff so the salesmen generate pitches to sell the stuff, the shop selling usually has a spiff for the mechanic as well and pretty soon they believe in the stuff. With the sulphur and the people that tapped the heating oil tank before the dye the additives caused no harm other than the cost. The only constant is change and all of the sales pitch for additives needs to change but there are a lot of people that have their paycheck hooked to the market and they do not want to change.The synthetic 2 cycle prevents cylinder wall scoring every time at 100:1 and most to the time at 200:1 ( I think that that is what they did because the machine survived one top up of the mix gas but not the second 400:1? I don't know exactly) diluting premix with mower gas is one of the ways to get gas in the car. I would advocate either starting low 4-500:1 or cutting back to find where the curve in the chart starts. I think that at least 1000 miles to get a point on the chart would be a fairly easy run to get multiple inputs. Gallons per 1000 miles with a note of the season because chilly weather and the fuel that goes with it raise the gallons per 1000 miles. I watched one person use the tank capacity and the trip odometer to figure MPG Another listed miles to low fuel light that will cost him in the future sometime.- the fuel cools the lift pump or the station may be out.I ran across some pints of 2 cycle and refill them from the gallon so now I just stop a little sooner and drop in a pint for 16 gal rather than pour the oz in the fill hose after pumping, the low light turns on about 24 gal, another easy measure with the pints.I smile at the frustration of the people that thought that they could force the early retirement of old diesels the same that they killed the cars with the unleaded gas but this time they were smarter and put the heating fuel off limits with dye rather than a restricter in the fuel fill. Or untill somebody finds a bleaching chemical. These are the same people that refuse to 'time' lights to create traffic congestion so they get more money for the roads. They say it 'can't be done' but they did it in the 50's and took the signs down in the 80's. I guess the concept of 40 foot per second divided into x feet to the next light won't fit into their computer.I guess this turned into a half rantkeydl

This is straight guesswork but the people that want to run syn 2 cycle will probably find that the same differential applies when mixed with diesel.Old 2 cycle and cheap 2 cycle use a dino mix of 32,35,40:1 and some of the syn 2 cycle advocates mixing at 100:1 which indicates that the syn stuff is more resistant to burning but still supplies the required lubrication. I think a good part of the increase in fuel mileage is due to upper ring lubrication from the unburned 2 cycle oil - exactly the same way that the 2 cycle gas engine is lubed to prevent scoring the cylinder wall.If that is the way that the extra mileage is produced then mixing syn 2 cycle at 1/3 or 1/4 will give the same results. Using a product with very near the same BTU per pound is a direct substitute - same BTU in more work out. The windage on the injector pump would not account for that much difference but lowering the windage in the engine would. The difference in design of the compression ring would also account for the difference in results on different engines. Timing would explain the difference in sound - injecting early with paint thinner would go off before TDC for a sharp sound followed by the main fuel burn at a lower pitch.Moly rings break in quick and run a long time if not abused, crome rings take a lot longer and run about the same life but stand abuse, cast iron rings break in real quick and wear out sooner. When cast rings were the only rings upper cylinder lube was sold everywhere and ring jobs kept the shop busy.So for every one with an interest there is a base to work on with the work on dino 2 cycle that morpar1973man has done, works for him and I think that he saved the injection pumps on both of my pickups by providing the information on 2 cycle.Can syn 2 cycle do a better job? Very possibly. But you need to collect all of the fuel tickets and remember to carry the oil. All brands are not universally availaible. I would think that starting low and slow would give the most reliable numbers. Syn 2 cycle will run a chain saw that says to mix 16:1 - that is roughly 1/6 the amount of oil. Does anyone holding a 1000 miles of fuel tickets want to stick a toe in for 1 oz per 6 gallons? and collect another 1 to 10K worth of tickets with the odometer reading on them? I think that 1 oz per 4 or 5 gallons would get the same result but the measuring becomes more precise. One of the ways is dilution to make the measuring easier.I've got a friend running 400:1 in a Detroit and so far the wallet meter is saying that the 2 cycle is worth the trouble of hunting it with a tractor, when he goes into the shop they tell him that his turbo is full of oil (I hope so) and he needs a set of injectors, but the boost is nailed at 29 and the computer on the dash is saying that the truck is up .4 MPG from the same route last year. The dash is showing 6.6 for 79,800. Wish mine did ton mile like that.keydl