madsen

Ok so Industrial Injection is on your list of rebuilders who have the Bosch test/calibration stand.The DP lift pump I have is considered to be an appropriate pump for a non modified truck ! I believe if I remember correctly your VP44 pump came from a Salt Lake City rebuilder most likely Industrial Injection. You make reference to a PSG when discussing a pump. What is that part ??? JOHN

So my vp44 is going bad. I am having dead pedal issues and its having idle problems and occasional white smoke at start up. History 98 dodge 24 valve replaced the vp 48 months ago at 180k miles, now has 198k miles. It had no start issues after getting warm and would start after pouring 5 gallons of cold water on it . I did the first replacement myself but could never get the truck to start and run so loaded the truck and took it to the shop and they replaced the vp44 with another one and it ran. The rebuilder diagnosed the first build as bad and paid the shop bill to replace it. That gets us to the present. The truck has following upgrades DP fuel lift pump in standard location. It has a secondary fuel filter just before the DP pump as required for the warranty. It has new Bosch RV injectors and a fuel pressure guage mounted on the factory fuel filter in the engine bay. It holds 19-20 pounds of pressure at idle and drops to 12 at WOT. I have run mostly Cenex road ranger ( has a higher lubricity number than Bosch requires) fuel since putting on the new vp and have added 2 cycle oil as recommended when I cannot get the cenex diesel. The truck does almost no pulling and runs well. I got 21 mpg on my last round trip to southern oregon 2 k miles before these issues started. The retailer who sold me the rebuilt vp44 says the pump is out of warranty I could send it in and have just the worn out parts replace at probably half the cost of a full rebuild but then the warranty would only cover the replaced parts. I am wondering if the rebuilder is the problem or do I need to do more upgrades to my truck to prevnet the problem again I am not willing to replace the pump myself this time and have a few other issues to resolve so am looking at a bill of 2k for getting a rebuilt vp44 installation and the other issues fixed ( the vacuum pump steering pump is leaking engine oil ) Thinking I should get a big line kit installed from fuel filter to injection pump as a fix to keep from having a second vp44 failure. The pump rebuilder is Industrial Injection out of Salt Lake and the shop doing the work is Gomers out of Missoula Thanks for taking the time to read my long post and sharing your thoughts. JOHN

I have a leak at my radiator drain. Want to replace the o ring on the drain plug. Anybody happen to know the size of the o ring ? Thanks in advance !!! John

My son has a 95 accord that used oil. It was doing similar to yours. He didn't realize it was leaking rather than burning because of the undercarriage pans were holding most of the oil. The leak was on the back side of the engine from the oil pressure sensor. Once that was replaced with a new sensor the oil usage dropped to a manageable quart every 2500 miles. Just something to check.

I had that problem. The issue turned out to be a bad 'new ' injection pump right out of the box. Was a very frustrating and trouble filled time but having spent a week trying everything suggested here and way more had to get another 'new' injection pump and it fired up and ran fine. Good luck !

So I changed the big filter and it was quite dirty. I attempted to change the small screen filter.I put in the larger 140 screen filter but try as I might could not get it to fit between the frame and the starter. I was working outside in 10 degree temperatures and the factory plastic fuel line would not bend enough to get it away from the starter. So I cleaned the old plastic filter with brake cleaner fluid and air. It clearly was at least partially plugged with what I assume was wax. It was a white substance. Truck started right up after I primed it a few times. I have figured out a short term solution for the small filter.Going to use the Mercedes pre filters you see on the Mercedes diesel cars from the 80s. My large filter was black in color and the filter bowl had a small amount of metal shavings in the bottom. That is concerning. After doing all of that I took it out for a long drive to see if it was leaking fuel. It was fine no leaks. I did something and broke my 4 wheel drive . This morning its 18 below and I have no garage. Going to wait till monday and hope for an easy fix of replacing the little vacuum box on the axle John

I have not used or bought bio diesel. I have not verified that my factory fuel heater is working, How do I do that, by checking for 12 volts or heat on the filter ? Thanks for continuing to respond to my thread, JOHN

Wix 33007 filter Its intended to catch large chunks that do harm to the pump. Sorry your DRP pump did not last. No I have not changed the filter as it appears to be clean. John

I use Total Power anti gel as it was recommended by the local Cummins dealer. Temperatures have been low of -14 at the coldest .Truck has not had issues in the past at -25 using the same fuel station and no antigel. Temperature on Saturday night is projected to be -20 ! THe truck does not struggle to start at those temperatures just refuses to keep running ! John

WOW Great replies Thanks for all the responses. I will attempt to answer questions. I have a pressure gage mounted on top of factory fuel filter. It reads 18 -14 pounds except when it is having the gelling issues it is , Then it reads zero . I always add the 2 cycle oil at fill up.The problem is constant when cold and not just a single tank . I buy my fuel at the same place . The lift pump is a FASS DRP series. The question I had was ideas about how to keep this filter from freezing.The mount position is vertical. The filter is required, I believe, to keep large pieces from entering the lift pump and causing damage not to protect the injection pump.The dodge engine fuel filter is doing that job.The FASS documentation says I will need to change the small filter every 6,000 miles. I was unhappy when I had to install the impossibly small filter in a bad location ! I have had to replace the injection pump because of the lack of pressure associated with the factory lift pump. Love my truck and the fuel mileage is great but this fuel gelling issue is a frustrating new issue ! I want to fix the problem and not cause more damage or add more complexity to my Dodge. JOHN

So I have had a problem this winter with a freezing fuel filter. I put it in when I installed after market lift pump. The filter is a small plastic type with a metal mesh screen ( required by the lift pump manufacturer to have a valid warranty). Its located next to the starter between it and the frame rail. Never had problems before this winter. To solve the problem I have had to double the amount of anti gel as I have normally used and add # 1 diesel to keep it from freezing and stalling . Is there a different solution to this issue other than installing a heated fuel filter on the frame rail ? Thanks in advance JOHN

So are you talking replace the whole injector or just the nozel ?

So I can do the overhead valve lash adjustment. Can you clean the injectors and have the pop pressure reset like on a Mercedes diesel or do I have to buy new or rebuilt injectors ? If I have to buy new what do I buy ? brand size ? I got my injection pump from Gomers out of Missoula and was very happy with their service I am happy with how the truck runs with the standard injectors and very happy with my overall Fuel mileage. Trucks gets a solid 21 to 22 driving 75 Helena to Seattle and back. How do you get 18-22 in town ? THANKS for your response John

I have 2 issues with my truck. Some times my idle lopes from 800 to 900 rpm. This issue seems like not a big deal but maybe points to the other issue of a miss at idle and at speed.The lope issue seems to be only while the truck is getting up to temperature and it is inconsistent. The second issue is the truck develops a miss as it warms. I have isolated it to cyc 3 and 4 by using a snap on code reader /scanner. My son thinks I have a couple of leaking injectors or possibly crossover tubes. Truck gets good mileage 14 in town and over 20 on the road at 70.Truck information ; 180 k miles 3/4 ton 4x4 5 speed. Fairly new injection pump 20 pounds pressure at idle.Some black smoke at start up. Question is any way to diagnose further without removing injectors and if its injectors should I repair 2 , clean and repair all 6 .....Thoughts suggestions ideas are welcome.I am not really a mechanic but can read and figure out things slowly. My son is a mechanic with 6 plus years experience and does diesels for a living working on over the road big rigs. He helps me when I get stuck/ over whelmed.

I HAVE A 98 24 VALVE WITH 165 k miles. I am getting a crank position sensor code set. This happens only near wide open throttle. The tach goes crazy and the check engine light comes on. when checked the only code is p0331. I have previously replaced the part but the code comes back. After doing a fair amount of reading I decided to check the fuel pressure. It reads 13 at idle and will stay there until i get close to 2500rpms or so at which point it will drop to around 8 pounds maybe. the needle flutters pretty bad. The truck also at that point runs like ____.So my questions are do I need to replace the crank position sensor , replace the lift pump, or should I do some more testing before I throw parts at the truck. I am not inclined to just throw parts at it. I bought the truck a while back at a decent price just to flip but I did not realize all the issues with it. It has a 53 block and has been used to tow as it has a goose neck hitch and was a ranch truck . I had to have the nv 4500 rebuilt. I might keep the truck if I thought the block would be ok.John