rancherman

the 12 valve and 24 valve cummins running the cummins supplied computer, along with the chrysler supplied pcm... make up our 'management operations'. Am I wrong to think the cummins' ecm does the actual engine management.... but is 'guided' by the pcm?so when a person mods with a performance module, they are actually 'fooling' the cummin's ecm with 'false' info from pcm?? ( so to induce higher boost, more timing, more fuel, etc..)The reason I ask, is the '94 ranch truck I am getting ready to build this winter still awaits my decision on which power plant: A simple 12 valve, totally mechanical on one end of my choices, to a more expensive 24 valve common rail 5.9 ( or something in between).One part of me wants to keep it simple, (fewer computers and wiring the better)... but at the same time wants more than the stock horsepower.. My plans are to hang an Allison 1000 5 speed behind it. I want the overdrive. I realize there will be a tcm to wire up there, along with a trans position sensor (if I go with a mechanical 5.9). I have spent far too much on Dodge Automatic transmissions at the rebuilders.. (I've already strayed from my 'simpler' theory!:banghead: dang it )This truck has been stripped of most of the engine wiring. (originally a diesel model). This is where I need to know how to proceed! If I go with 98.5 and up engine, I have found suppliers who sell 'ENGINE RUN' harnesses. Which will require me to basically do a custom dash. Which leads me back to the top of my post! If I go this route, 'eliminated' pcm, have the 'reflashers' made progress in re-working the cummins ecm? so, this is basically a 'see what I can/can't/shouldn't attempt' type questionare. Any and all inputs.. I am ready to be schooled! bring it!Thanks!

Are todays thermocouples trust worthy enough to put them ahead of the turbo? I know you will get a much more accurate ex temp reading there.... but I'd sure hate to run a rotted off tip through the turbo! I have a couple of tractors that I'd like to equip them with..

LOL< I just 'back spaced' a 47 paragraph reply to you! You are just talking about the tip of the iceberg... and are justifiably concerned!oh, to ramble on and rant!.... but i must keep to myself! I don't want to muddy up this cool site!

I wanted to buy a ScanGaugeII earlier this week, but had to go with Actron... very similar capabilites.anyway, when in the 'veiw data' It shows what both pcm and ecm are seeing from the various sensors.eng temp, rpm, map, intake air temp, boost, etc... are all within 1 number of each other ie: engine rpm would show 803 on the ecm... and 804 on the pcm... temps are within 1 degree, boost is .1 or .2What did catch my eye is the tps! one module showed 0.0 and at the same time the other module showed 10.1 (at idle) They both changed at the same rate while pushing down on the throttle.... always 10.1 difference in the two. Not sure this is a problem, or maybe the 'starting' value is different for the two.LOL< I think these things are more dangerous to have in the cab than a cellphone!!! ( or a good lookin passenger..)

double check your info... Gallons, not litres... miles not Kilometers... you might of missed one

Did you get the hard shifting sorted out? To me, it sounded exactly what I had to go through a year ago when the shift fork wore out. Some little retaining clip was put on wrong, and less than a year later it wasn't releasing the clutch fully. The only way to put in reverse was to shut off the engine!syncro reverse?? never heard of it. An earlier post suggested that.Which is the first clue that your clutch is hanging up, because there is no syncro in Reverse!It doesn't take much to keep that disk turning!as far as your 2 gear hang up, mine does it too, when cold. After it's warmed up, it's much better.I have noticed a lot of my 'buddies' shifting without using the clutch... like a semi tractor. Our transmissions don't like that at all! Even done perfectly, you are essentially 'driving' the vechicle by the friction cone (for a fraction of a second) You might of gotten one of those transmissions with some tired syncro's.another cause of a tired 2nd syncro could be: I ususally don't use 1st, and start out in 2nd. well, pushing the clutch in and 'grabbing' 2nd.. we don't give the trans much time to spin down... and force it! Our diesel clutch disks are much heavier than 4 cylinder car disks... and the flywheel effect from a heavier disk takes it's toll.OR... ( I didn't catch if you installed a new disk, or reused the old..) you might have a slightly sprung center on your disk. It's not that hard to do when removing/installing a heavy trans! You 1000% sure you didn't put the disk in backwards?(just thinking of any/all possible ways a clutch will 'hang')Looks like you have done a great job on your swap!

ok... so that black plate to the left of the unit (has a bolt through it going to another plate) is the base of the mount?last night when I looked at yours, I thought that might be a nerf bar mount

mike, that looks like a perfect spot... did you make the bracket, or did the one it came with work there? Use existing holes on the cross member? I ordered the AD today, it comes with the quick attach hoses, and this kit is for trucks with the lp still on the block. Just for giggles, I called my 'pump man' who has done most of my ag related injection work... just to pick his brains on the vp44. He about choked on his spit when I told him I still had the original pump and '44 on a 200k ram! I mustof got the 'ONE' LOL.... too bad my luck at powerball isn't this good! anyway, he said they don't build '44's in his shop... the test bench is too pricey for the number of those pumps in circulation... They farm them out. They are up to about 1500 now, (electronic part REALLY increased recently) NOW.... any forecast on how long it will take for my vp to croak? I should start a pool! ;) - - - Updated - - - That tired old soldier is going away as soon as a new pump is here, I am amazed it lasted this long 212K miles! Sorry!! The SOLDIER I was refering to was the pump! not the pickup!

sometimes I get ahead of myself in typing... It's probably difficult for most viewers to read my mind! LOLTo clarify, I am co owner of the 2000 ram that is giving me some difficulty. My fil, who has no patience with machines.... would like to 'dump' it.... and get new. (I hate walking away from a challenge, it's like throwing in the towel)This truck is paid for, and I feel most of the bugs have been worked out over the years: we upgraded the small trans input shaft, did an improved oiling in the 6 speed, and I just put new rubber on.So, this truck still has the original block mounted lift pump.... which from countless posts, threads, forums all say the same: get rid of it and save your vp44. So, I'll take a chance and install an AD 100 and help the life of the VP44. If it eventually gets sold, I will keep my 'upgrade' for future projects!Couple this with the fact of some codes recently popped, and it's a no brainer for me. Fix it, have a dependable truck again (I know for a fact what has been done to it) and continue on with life. And do this to my FIL: This truck is subject to cow poop inside and out, brush and tree scrapes and scratches.. cows bumping into it and caving in fenders... It's not a show queen, It has to be dependable!Speaking of the AD, they recommend removing the factory fuel filter, and just run theirs. What about the factory ' water in fuel sensor' ? anything need to be done with that harness? or are they suggesting to just take the element out and run an empty can?Long story short.. This new AD100 will more than take care of my needs today and if tomorrow sees a need for more HP, (a little more) the AD 100 will already be in place. Who knows how much borrowed time I been using up on that old factory lift pump?? Time to change it!

I know I know!.... one of the benefits of co owning.. and not having equal shares.. sighBut, the truck will do a butt load of work this fall.... needs to haul about 3000 round bales home from field, and about 500 calves out of pasture..Maybe I'll buy my fil's share.. and just keep it!

Now I know! This truck is co owned with my FiL, and about the only time I get my 'hands' on it is when something is needing repair! (not a real good arrangement eh?) For me anyway!But we've had this for about 7 years now, bought this '00 3500 just for one purpose: to pull either the stock trailer, or our flatbed.looking for possible causes for a couple of trouble codes... I see it still has the factory block mounted lift pump.I thought these were pretty much recalled early in their life to be retrofitted??? I'll bet a lot of you are thinking.... how can this guy not have heard where the pump was humming?..... well, I am 90% deaf in my right ear... (tire explosion) and my 'stereo' capacity in my head is worthless when it's time to locate origins of certain sounds.. That tired old soldier is going away as soon as a new pump is here, I am amazed it lasted this long 212K miles!

which direction is it jumping? up, down, or both sides of idle rpm?... and by how far? Is it doing it only at cold start up? or when fully warmed up? Im right at the first stage of looking for the demon in mine... but it'll go from indicated rpm... to zero....back up to normal.I also have a crankshaft sensor code too..

Thanks for the link to your diagnostic section! Whew.... when do you ever sleep man?I think I'll do all the steps in the crank sensor issue first... and get that resolved before attacking the failed comms issue.Since the tach only goes nuts on occasion, I am kinda thinking it's a connection issue.. but will follow the steps first before running to the parts store. sensors aren't too bad, around 35 bucks or so.

It's not the ScangaugeII.... Advance Auto was supposed to have one, so I got the Actron scanner. From what I can see, It doe basically the same as the ScangaugeII. After setup... (vehicle make model year engine) it will not only give a code, but what the code actually is. (I'll take codes and confirm either in here or elsewhere)So, here we go! 2000 Dodge 3500, cumminsP0336 crankshaft position sensor A circuitThat probably explains my bonker tachP1689 No communication with electric control and pump module.This probably explains the dying at idle, (sometimes) or an occasional buck..OR (possible light bulb just came on my tiny brain) If computer 'sees' that engine is not running (no signal from faulty crank sensor)... does it shut off lift pump??? Is it possible this is related to my first code?or would a dying lift pump cause this code...Any and all thoughts/advice is greatly appreciated!:thumb1:I got 4 codes recorded.... 2 'confirmed' and 2 'pending'. Both sets were the above mentioned codes.It will also record (but not erase) PERMANENT codes... only the vehicle itself can do that But that is for 2010 models

search Copes' Massey pulling tractor.. It's a 640 perkins with what appears billet heads. That kid has it figured out!

massey ferguson 4880. Those are tuned for 320 hp. The MF 4900 was pumped to 375. I've read where in some coast guard cutters, they had em pumped to almost 1500.. but they rebuild them every 4-500 hours, whether they need it or not! I had my pump turned up to about 450, and it runs pulling a 42 foot disk all day and less than 950 degree exaust temp. I'll burn up a 200 gallon tank in about 9 hours, with just a wisp of grey smoke.I don't run it all out though, 2600 is high idle, and I ususally run about 23-2400, mainly for fuel consumption, and wide open is too fast for my disk! 6 mph is about as fast as most disk work properly: too fast and it doesn't cut deep enough, and leaves too fine a texture. (prone for wind erosion then) So, I either shift down a gear, or pull back on the 'big arm' Main reason I like the older iron.... I can still fix it myself, and it's paid for! LOL It must be a real pain for my neighbor (with his shiney new CiH fleet) to see me doing the exact same thing he is, with faded paint.. :tongue:so, you got me! I am a Dodge nut, AND a MF'r!!! (Massey Ferguson)

actually..... I just snagged it out of a burnt tractor for a spare parts donor. I was just finishing up my first inframe on the current engine.... and soon found out how difficult hard parts are to come by. Thought it might come in handy in the future. I have read a lot of people calling them 'boat anchors, 9-0-nothings... pos.... etc.. makes me laugh! Any decent operator with heavy equipment knowledge shouldn't have any problems with a well maintained 903. 18,500 hours on factory original has to say something... Other than my own fault at re assembling that engine... I can't complain! (rolled oring in lower sleeve) - - - Updated - - - This is one I borrowed from the neighbor last winter.. I got one on order from same manufacture. I too wanted to go with duals.. less cutting in going across the hay meadows. I gotta wait though, 10 week waiting period! This one holds 10 bales, and mine were running almost 1800 that year. Lets just say you really really wanted to keep your head in the game and about 1 mile ahead of your front bumper! Sure beats the heck out of running a chain mover behind a tractor @ 18 mph!

I've been running Treadwright.com tires. These are very good retreads built on quality, low milage carcasses. They use mainly michelin, goodrich, and goodyear carcasses. They use the same rubber compound as goes into commercial truck recaps. Why do I use them? Main reason.... cost. last set for my 1500 ram 265 75 R 16 load range D, was about 130 each shipped to my door. These were the sentinal tread pattern.... good grip, and not to noisey. Second reason.... I do a lot of 'off the road' here on the ranch, I can just as easy ruin a tire with a sharp rock, stick, antler....fencepost just as easy as a 400 dollar tire. They are built up in the blackhills region of South Dakota. Ive used up about 4 sets on the varous Rams around here, I've had one start to delaminate. they exchanged it no questions asked. YOU HAVE TO KEEP EM AIRED UP!

I have read Michael's post and watched the video on snagging codes.... and just to make sure I'm doing it correctly, just how long does it take from P done (1st) until the second half? I've waited for about 15-20 seconds..... but after the P done, (1693 ) it goes back to odometer.Also, would it be a good idea to change up my lift pump now... BEFORE my vp44 renegotiates it's status?got about 200k on the clock now.. I'm running bone stock, either a 95 gpm FASS or 100 AD should do the trick eh? would I just pull fuel through the oem pump... or does it need to be eliminated?what is a good scanner... I might as well take the plunge.. I am almost 70 miles from the closest town with a chain type parts store.. Cripes.... between the tractor, this pickup... and now my son's Neon is sitting with a dead pump.... I"LL NEVER get to work on my hobby! (fixing cars)...

will do! I see the plug for the cam... from underneath looking up, not too bad to get ahold of, but the crank sensor is another ball of fun huh? I'll let it cool off a little before getting too carried away.I hate the smell of burned flesh.. (especially mine!)I gotta ask, why cant I get the other code, along with the P1693? Is there one hidden that only a reader/scanner can extract??

ok, to some of you who have followed a couple of my posts in the last days... I have some more info on my problems:along with the intermittent check engine light, some engine surging, and dying at idle, (again, only occasionally)... I noticed the tach was bouncing from 0 up to actual engine speed. I shut it off while the tach was reading "0"..... and it would not restart. I tried in about 30 seconds, and it popped right off, and the tach was working fine.Today was the first time I actually got to 'test' drive this.. my son and wife are the ones who relayed the info to me, which I posted here.Today, I actually got to key the diagnostics.... and again I got the companion p1693... but nothing else. It just went back to Odometer.I purposely flogged this pickup today to get it to do what my family said it was... It ran hard up to redline in all gears... all the way to 100mph. after slowing to make the turn into my road, that is when the check engine light came on, and the tach started to bounce. Now what do I try? any help is greatly appreciated!Bob

funny you should ask... Im in the middle of freshening up that 903 right now.. and pics will be online soon. I did a stupid thing... I didn't measure the liners after installing them on last years' inframe. I had one cylinder with a rolled o-ring.... and didnt catch it. here is what a piston should look like with only 400 hours: here is the culprit o-ring. there are 2 of these, for oil, then a wide rubber band for the antifreeze Look closely, you can see the twist just before the actual break A rolled o ring (out of it's groove) will distort the sleeve more than .003 inch. More than enough to start the whole demolition process. here is the ONE piston that took it in the shorts... believe me, it is no longer round! ha Cool thing about these heavy engines..... SLEEVES! (yep, I know, there are pros and cons to each) this engine is 5.5 inch bore. pretty easy to get a hand down there! YES< I DID measure it this time! I actually measured all 8 holes, and the new one is .0005 oblong. in the oring area, even better at the top! close enough! What were the symtoms?? engine started losing power, engine temp went up drastically... and the blowby was so bad I couldn't see past the hood of the tractor! This was from just one bad hole.

My son called me last night, he was on his way home in our '00 Ram ctd. The little outline of the engine in the dash had been lit for the past couple of days. Is this the MIL?anyway, he said the truck started bucking and sputtering, and the tach was going wild. He shut it off, and he knew about the key method to retrieve a code. He called me with the P1693 code, but he didn't know to wait for the last half of the report.Long story short, He got home, the truck started fine and ran home perfect. the MIL light went out too.I had a minute to check this afternoon, and ran the code just like Michael explained in his video: cycle 3 times, I got the P1693 code, then P done. It went straight back to odometer from there. I did this a couple times with same result....NO 2nd report. (Goes straight back to odometer)Is this an emission problem? I see if so, a couple 'trips' will erase a momentary problem but not a DTC. My son ran it about 70 miles last night on the way home....... Next time the MIL light comes on, I'll run the key again.... correct?I was already to dig the wallet out for a new injector pump and lift pump.... It still running the original with just over 200k miles... I think I'll replace the lift pump with either a fass or bullydog...

Yes, it DOES fit! (yah, it's a tad top heavy) One of my daily uses for the 'herd' of rams... This one is my '94 2500

anyone here with any experience with black diesel fuel? Like, which filtration methods or equipment you use, and any results (good and bad)?I usually have close to 200 gallons of waste engine oil per year, and have several older tractors to burn it in..my 903 cummins powered 4X4 would be a perfect candidate... Back in it's heyday, when it was in semi tractors, Cummins actually had a feature that would draw out about a gallon of crankcase oil and inject in into the fuel tanks this was done after X number of miles There was an onboard reservoir that would automatically replace that oil with new... The operator only needed to replace filters, and keep the tank topped off with new oil.I've read that some are using it on on-the-road applications.... but with fuel inspectors and their 'scopes'... I'd sure hate to write the check on that fine!!getting it cleaned down to 1-2 microns is simple enough, getting all traces of water/antifreeze is paramount.I'd like to probably go with a 15-20% mix.. I'm looking for lube qualities first, cheaper operating costs second. ( when the disk is in the ground, 20 gallons per hour are up in smoke!) The upside to this is more power (more BTU"S) per gallon.. And my old '903 was designed for fuel that is more slippery than today's 'dry fuel'..