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Showing results for tags 'head studs'.
Found 3 results
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A friend of mine has a 2001, the problem is that he developed a small coolant leak from the front of the head between the head and block. We re-torqued the bolts and it helped, but still seeps! Anyone ever just replaced the bolts and torqued them to factory specs? Can you get the rear ones out? Are studs a better way to go? Obviously he should remove the head do some work, we are hoping for something less stressful!
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Who has done this on 24v ? I understand torque sequence and specs ... Just curious onAny issues with back studs and cowel etc ?Do you need to tap the existing hole ? If so details ? Ive heard yes and no. Any other tips outside of sequence or specs ... Thx
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Starting this for a discussion as well as for FYI for those interested Discussion thead here http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/344262-mighty-diesel-cylender-head-bolts-anything-good-bout-em.html product here http://www.mightydiesel.com/store/index.php?cPath=108 Speculation here Tony from Mighty Diesel is using their Houdini headbolts, (12mm) running about 60PSI boost.. a small S400 running about 575HP on a marine headgasket (.020" over stock thk) and those bolts.. no O-rings. And he's been pulling in the 2.6 class like that for a while. He claimed a customer has run their bolts at 100PSI boost (70PSI regularly) and they hold his HG fine. If I'm not mistaken, the guy running 100PSI boost on these bolts was running a marine HG, no O-rings. I have my doubts and concerns about them but I have been pushing 60PSI (or a hair more?) so I'm also worried about the stock bolts holding up.
