For Sale - 2006 Dodge Ram 2500- Flatbed for long box bed Winch bumper Flat Bed for Long Box 3rd generation Cummins Tootlbox are included with key I have a flatbed for 3rd Generation dodge Cummins. This flatbed comes with a gooseneck hitch already in the bed. The winch bumper is part of the set. Tootlbox have a key to lock and unlock all box a single key. There is rust starting and electrical will have to be sorted out on your own.
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Price: $1,000.00
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Location: New Meadows, Idaho
Mopar1973Man 1 post
guesswho512 1 post
MoparFreak1988 1 post
Being the single most important part on our trucks I thought I would toss some thoughts out there for your opinions. To start I have had other 3/4ton trucks though none with a heavy diesel motor and they seem to perform well with stock brake my rotors will last about a 100k and the pads 50-60k on the two gassers I have that are driveable. Now my diesel ram chewed up my rotors and pads in 30k miles is this normal? The pads where ebc greenstuff 600 for the 8800gvwr not the 7500gvwr almost biffed that this go round and stock rotors at 225,800 miles the front brakes where completly overhauled new lines, calipers, cleaned and wire brushed the caliper mounts, rotors and pads it just had that done again minus the calipers one rotor was 10thousands under min and the other was 20thousands above min and only one side wiskers were squeaking. My thoughts/questions are is this normal or is this problem being caused by that 530 dollar p.o.s valve in the rear that proporsions brake pressure according to weight my bar that connects the two keeps falling off of which I have found some simple repairs (assuming you didnt do what I did which is try to take the lever off you will turn the valve and have a nightmare on your hands) So your choices are replace it with either a staight piece of brake line, put a new valve in or if your lucky and only have my original problem grind off the nub on the lever that the bar connects to and then drill a hole in the center of where the nub exsisted about 3/16 will do. Now you can turn your attention to the bar pull it out and drill out the socket where the the nub went to hold it on same drill. Then put the bar back in and sandwhich a nylon washer between the bar and the bolt head then one between the lever and the bar and the final one between the lever and the nut and there you go your off to the races. So I now have a line and no valve because of my mistakes the last question I had was when I rebuild my rear brakes should I install the one tone wheel cylinders or will that increase chances of wheel lockup while unloaded Mike I believe you have done this and have wright up about it so I am eager to hear back I dont want to make dropping 700 dollars a common ocurence for a set of brakes Thanks as always the help is greatly appreichiated