cummins2k Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 I was looking under the truck after spotting a stain by the passenger side of my truck directly below the tire. It also appears that it has gotten on the tire. However under closer inspection this is what I found. I am going to check the vent tomorrow and see if it plugged up. But other than that has anyone changed the seals in a Dana 60 before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild and Free Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Yep, it requires both axles to be removed and the differential carrier needs to be removed also and to install the new ones requires either a special axle seal installer or use some home made tools as most do. It will take 2 people to install the seals if you don't have the right seal installer as they install from the tube side inward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorePower Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 I've only rebuilt the dana 44 on my old f150. If the 60 is as much of a PITA, I'd replace the u-joints and anything else you can while you've got it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
balsip Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 The factory service manual for a 2001 in the Download section explains how to fix it. Just remember the seal is installed with a special tool that can easily be made by using a length of allthread, some nuts and washers. The pictures in the FSM are good for showing what is required. The seal is accessible through the vacum 4X4 actuator housing once the cover is removed and the half axle and center axle is removed. I have to replace the seal in my truck once it gets worse or I have the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebullet83 Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 since it's the passenger side, you can do only that side, no need to take the carrier out. that side is the easy side. I wouldn't personally change the other side if i didn't half to. mine was leaking on the driver's side. no leak out of the tube seals now, but i can't get the CAD unit to stop seaping! I'm gonna get around to making a special washer to span the 2 bottom bolts to stiffen that flange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prowelder Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 I'm needing to replace my passenger side seal here sometime. I've seen how it is done on paper and it takes a little work, but I think it can be done. It would be a lot better if you have a paved place to work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebullet83 Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 concrete is best. jack stands sink into asphalt! i've learned the hard way when my camaro fell off one hot summer day. the floor jack sunk in when i jacked up the dodge, but i put plywood under the stands nowadays. and good luck with the reseal job. like i said before, i wouldn't do the driver's side if i didn't need too. that is the more difficult side to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prowelder Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 concrete is best. jack stands sink into asphalt! i've learned the hard way when my camaro fell off one hot summer day. the floor jack sunk in when i jacked up the dodge, but i put plywood under the stands nowadays. and good luck with the reseal job. like i said before, i wouldn't do the driver's side if i didn't need too. that is the more difficult side to do. Yeah and dirt sucks too!!! When I do mine, I'll do both!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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