FASS Install

[kbf98520]

I’m finally getting around to installing a FASS Titanium unit (that has been on a shelf for quite a few months) on my 2001 manual transmission 4x4. This pickup still has block mounted lift pump. I’ve disconnected electrical plug from the factory lift pump . Where should I put the fuel line from new pump? Inlet of preexisting block mounted filter or inlet side of injection pump. FASS instructions say directly to injection pump. I had some previous advice that said to connect it to inlet side of filter housing. What are the advantages and or disadvantages of either?  TIA . Kevin

[Tractorman]

Not to familiar with the FASS Titanium features, but if its filtration is equal to or exceeds OEM filtration, you could go directly to the VP44.  Just make sure that your new line from the FASS system is absolutely clean before connecting to the VP44. 

 

One benefit to be gained by connecting to the OEM filter housing, besides additional filtration, would be a less likelihood of contaminating the VP44 during installation. 

 

Are you installing a relay to be triggered by the ECM on your new installation?

 

- John

[kbf98520]

There is an inline relay with the FASS supplied wiring harness.  I know not what this does.

I assume I will get a code from the now disconnected block mounted lift pump. Do you know of anything I can plug into that to prevent this?

[Tractorman]

Your OEM engine block mounted lift pump is operated directly by the ECM.  Lift pumps typically draw 8 to 12 amps depending on make and model.  A relay will remove this heavy electrical load from the ECM. 

 

You can still use the ECM to trigger the coil on the relay (only about 200 milliamps).  Deutsch 2-pn connectors should match your 2-pin connector on the OEM lift pump and are available on Amazon.  This way you can easily extend the OEM wiring harness to wherever the relay is mounted.

 

- John

 

[IBMobile]

Here is an article that might help to install a lift pump relay.

 

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/59_fuel/installing-protective-lift-pump-relay-r501/?tab=comments#comment-55

 

[kbf98520]

So, wiring a relay into the old lift pump circuit will eliminate a code from now unused block mounted lift pump. I’d like to just remove filter housing and lift pump.

[IBMobile]

You can leave the old pump on; it's not hurting anything unless it gets in the way.  The old filter housing can be an extra filter, but it also serves as a water separator and a fuel heater for those cold northern winters.

[kbf98520]

I already bypassed original filter housing with plans to ultimately remove it. The heater isn’t really needed here where I live .New pump works great. Went with Fleece Sureflo sump and sending unit . Great setup 

[kbf98520]

16 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Here is an article that might help to install a lift pump relay.

 

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/59_fuel/installing-protective-lift-pump-relay-r501/?tab=comments#comment-55

 

Great write up, thank you for posting. This new system is powered  directly from battery and ignition circuit from fuse block in cab. It has an inline relay in the wiring harness included from FASS. 

The OEM plug that powered the block mounted lift pump is now disconnected 

[IBMobile]

Is the fuel pump on any time the ignition key is in the on position?  If in an accident what signals the fuel pump to turn off mitigating a potential fire? 

[Tractorman]

Agree with the potential serious accident / starting a fire scene if the the lift pump relay is wired to a source that is in the "Run" position of the ignition switch. 

 

Back in the early 2000's when Chrysler Daimler was warrantying VP44 injection pumps, they also retrofitted an in-tank lift pump at the same time, which was also covered by warranty.  The wiring connector from the removed engine block-mounted lift pump was connected to the coil part of a new relay that was included with the retrofit.  This kept the integrity of having the ECM control the lift while at the same time reducing the electrical load of the ECM.

 

From what I have seen in the past is that FASS does not provide instruction to wire the relay in this manner.  Personally, I think it is a better method to wire the lift pump control circuit to the relay coil for the added safety. 

 

- John

[kbf98520]

11 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Is the fuel pump on any time the ignition key is in the on position?  If in an accident what signals the fuel pump to turn off mitigating a potential fire? 

Yes. 

[IBMobile]

You can use the power wire that went to the original lift pump to control the FASS relay, review the article for protective lift pump relay.  Remove and discard the wire at the FASS relay terminal that comes from the ignition switch and attach the power wire from the ECM for the lift pump to the that relay terminal.

This will give on/off control to the ECM and will turn off the lift pump any time the engine stops.  This set up will also turn the pump on for five seconds when the key is first turned on and twenty seconds when the engine starter is "bumped".  The coil in the relay has enough resistance so no code is set for a disconnected lift pump.

Edited August 3 by IBMobile
clarity

[kbf98520]

12 hours ago, IBMobile said:

You can use the power wire that went to the original lift pump to control the FASS relay, review the article for protective lift pump relay.  Remove and discard the wire at the FASS relay terminal that comes from the ignition switch and attach the power wire from the ECM for the lift pump to the that relay terminal.

This will give on/off control to the ECM and will turn off the lift pump any time the engine stops.  This set up will also turn the pump on for five seconds when the key is first turned on and twenty seconds when the engine starter is "bumped".  The coil in the relay has enough resistance so no code is set for a disconnected lift pump.

Thank you. I will do that. Too busy this weekend and headed back to work for probably 5 weeks Monday , so it’ll be September before I can get this done, also gauges, exhaust,one piece drive shaft and free spin hubs next. 
I’ll post with results.

Kevin

[QuadRunnerJake]

One thing to note with the fass system... The relay and fuse holder isn't the best quality. I highly recommend buying an aftermarket fuse and relay box that has covers and mount it somewhere dry. Then anytime you add a circuit you will have a nice empty relay box with fuse holders to make it quick and easy. My original relay holder kept frying relays and eventually melted due to it not being mounted upright and away from the heat of the motor.  Ground the pump to the frame, not the battery.

 

Also note the blue fuel lines fass uses suck they will dry and crack and leak in no time. Highly recommend going with a better hose.