As winter sets in, I continue to freeze until I have passed the 10 mile mark at which time the truck finally puts out heat. I drive very light pedaled until it heats up, making the time it takes to heat up take longer, but I do not want to be hard on a cold engine. Now I have noticed several hundred degrees of heat being blown out even idling which could be used to heat the engine up very quickly. Just look at your EGT gauge and you will know what I am talking about. Now how do I transfer that heat to the engine water but be able to completely close off the exhaust heat transfer once I reach 200f? I have thought of 2 ways of doing it but both have limitations. 1. Run the heater core hose through a copper water block on top of the exhaust manifold which has some kind of high heat thermal transfer compound between to get the heat really moving into the copper.2. Hit off the exhaust after the turbo and run it through a heat exchanger, I'm thinking this is the basic principle behind the EGR cooler crap but I have no desire to feed the cooled air back into the intake to reduce pollution or NoX or anything. Now what I have ran into is idea #1 seems almost impossible. I would have to shut the flow of water through the water block off but bypassing it would leave coolant in the water block to boil and therefore would steam out my antifreeze causing me to always have to add more.Idea 2 on the other hand seems much more plausible. The exhaust can simply be butterfly valve'd off and then all the hot air would cease to flow through my heat exchanger. This seems rather simple if I could get a hold of an EGR cooler that everyone is throwing away, but I am not quite sure on how they govern the flow so that the truck doesn't overheat. I was hoping you guys would inspire me with some more info on the EGR coolers people throw away or give me some other ideas. I am hoping to get it from 0f to 200f in 5min. :confused:

Edited December 2, 200915 yr by ISX

Here is another wierd idea... Build a reverse AirBox that pulls warmed air from the turbo charger area. Kind of like the older gasser engine used to do pulling heated air from around the exhaust manifold. This would aid in the other problem your having with white smoke issues and grid heaters... But you would have to build a door oe butterfly to control the heated air and the cooled air. :confused:

Pulling air from around the manifold. Now theres a good start!

Come on ISX.......it doesn't get "COLD" in Missouri!!!!!:eek:

Shoot... I've got temps as low as 20*F so far and I'm not too worried... I just fire it up and drive easy for the first 5 miles and then drop the hammer on it... By the time I travel 5 miles I got 140-160*F worth of coolant. Then for lazy morning I kick the high idle... But that's not a 12V ability... But ISX you might want to talk to Taz about his high idle kicker he's got. :eek:

I have a high idle thing but that doesn't do enough. I don't see why I can't take advantage of the heat from the exhaust. I'd really like to try it out and don't want to mess with little things like idling for longer periods at higher rpm or messing with expensive exhaust brakes. It's an idea I've been tossing around for a long time so I really hope you guys would help me with it rather than suggest other things that won't really achieve what I really want. And I kinda enjoy the one of a kind part of it. I wanted to hear your alls thoughts on things because I know no one person can possibly see all the things that can go wrong.

maybe a bypass for the intercooler? i noticed there is not much increase in temp for the compression of air....or computer CPU heatsinks or WATERBLOCKS

Edited December 6, 200915 yr by guesswho512

have you come up with a plan? i'm a curious and following this

I ran a pipe into the exhaust hitting off the heater core but it's not doing much. Need longer piece of pipe, or slow the flow, it's going through too fast.

I was think about your crazy idea... Since I believe in thinking out side the box... Why not... Ok... Flow too fast and pipe too big... Problem fixed (I think). What you need is soft copper tube but smaller like 4 tube all running paralell. Now run them twisted around the exhaust pipe. Or coil it up inside exhaust pipe but I think your getting the idea...

Yeah I need something to get the surface area up. One pipe bent inside the exhaust shaped like a water heater element just doesn't have the surface area. I have 5" from the turbo back so I have plenty of room to work with putting pipe in there. But it's a PITA to weld in such a tight spot. The copper around the exhaust or even exhaust manifold sounds very plausible. I know copper bends like crazy which would work so much better than the steel pipe that I have to heat and then risk kinking when I do bend it. Plus copper pipe wound around everything would look neat!