I don't regularly check my brakes out because to be honest, I don't put hardly any miles on my truck. I rotate my tires every 5000 miles yet I’ve only put 4000 miles on it in the last 2 years.

 

I drive it basically only during the fall for hunting season and if it snows bad during the winter.

 

2 weeks ago a stop light changed and when I hit the brakes the antilock kicked in. I could tell something was wrong immediately. When I got home I found that the front rotor broke apart. It had rusted through at vents.

 

After fixing that a few days later I could hear a squeak coming from the rear brakes. I took those apart yesterday.

 

The caliper side has full pad wear. Yet the backside has only a spot with about 1/2 inch wear.

 

Why such different in wear on the backside.

 

Also is the drum portion simply for the emergency brake only.

The drum inside is only used for the emergency brake. As for the uneven pad wear you need to check and make sure the caliper is able to slide in and out on the pins. This can be done by removing the pads, pushing the piston all the way in, installing the caliper and trying to slide it in and out. If it won't move you found the problem! I'm sure others will chime in with some advice too 

This is the hardest on any vehicle is to use it in-frequent. Like you admitted to using it in the fall year for hunting so I can bet the rotors are filled with mud and what not. Then if you use in the winter time for snow then your adding salt to the mix which absolutely kills the rotors in a quick hurry along with other metal parts. If it was me I would be washing the under body more often to prevent the standing of salt and mud on any parts. This is one of the reasons I've still got my factory OE rotor and brake parts yet (except brake pads).

Ok, if I disconnect all the lines from the calipers and pump the brake pedal to empty the reservoir.  It's not going to hurt anything by running it dry is it.

Can you use a turkey baster to empty it? I don't like pumping the brake pedal to the floor. Can cause you problems when your travel is longer than normal. If you want to replace your fluid, just suck out what you can and then keep adding new fluid. Or spend $50 on a motive brake bleeder that runs under pressure and run it out the caliper hoses till clear. No pumping of brake pedal. This is my preferred method.

When I had a motorhome Id drive it weekly to the grocery store. I use my 4 wheel drive every change I get on my truck. My philosophy is to use my equipment frequently even if you don't go very far. You gotta start making a point to drive your truck more often. Will solve a lot of problems down the road.

  On 2/8/2014 at 7:25 PM, joecool911 said:

Can you use a turkey baster to empty it? I don't like pumping the brake pedal to the floor. Can cause you problems when your travel is longer than normal. If you want to replace your fluid, just suck out what you can and then keep adding new fluid. Or spend $50 on a motive brake bleeder that runs under pressure and run it out the caliper hoses till clear. No pumping of brake pedal. This is my preferred method.

 

I wouldn't use a turkey baster...

 

 

Reason why. I would rather remove all four calipers and allow the system to drain out of each open line. Pull apart all four calipers and clean them out and inspect everything. Seals, piston fit, etc. Then bleed the system out as you reload the system. But make sure to clean out the reservoir the best you can. If you have to pull the roll pin and remove the reservoir and rinse it with solvent and dry to keep more debris from running into the system. As for bleeding I prefer a full long stoke every time this way to keep the full length of the bore in use so the day comes when you need it you'll have it. But if you continue to short stoke it then you might wind up eating the seals off the master cylinder piston.