this is never ending. now the steering gear needs replaced

[diesel4life]

Front abs was an option on the 99s, yours may or may not have it.

[rancherman]

UPDATE!

Installed:   Steering gear,  all new  steering   components  are  installed  awaiting  final  toe  adjustment.

hubs, extensions  are  in, torqued down...  Axles  are  in,  and  apparently the  axle seals  are  holding oil back!     Got the  Posi-lok installed,  no more  vacuum worries about engaging the  front axle.

Now  awaiting   CALIPER REBUILD  STUFF.     My  phenolic  pistons  had  (read that again...HAD)  a   steel ring  that  goes up against the  backing plate on the  pad.   All rusted out.  Might as well   do a  quicky  caliper  rebuild  while I'm at it.

 

Besides  the new pads,     getting   new  pins, bushings, guide pin boots,   pistons, seals,  and  something  I've never seen before!

Dorman's   'speed  bleeder screw'.     They  cost  about 3 bucks  apiece,   they are a little taller than the originals... but  incorporate a  one-way check ball.   Loosen them  normally to bleed,  and  just  pump the brakes  slowly.  the  check ball keeps  air  from going back into the  caliper.  

[rancherman]

Getting close to rolling out the door!

Got the calipers  assembled,   need to get em  bolted on and  bled. 

Toe is  set.   Got  just  under  1/8th inch.

Checked to see  where  castor  was at,   already at 'max'.

Got the  Vacuum  capped off the  'no longer needed'    vacuum   CAD  system.

Took forever  to   get the power steering  system   primed..  

 

BTW,     during the   toe setting,      I seen that the  link that's  immediately in front of the  diff cover    can rotate   up and  down ( as  much as  the tie rods  will allow)    and  when  the bar is  all the way  down,   it's pretty dang close to the  diff cover.      I made sure  the   rod ends  were   'centered' or 'flat', perpendicular  to the  studs..  then  tightened the  connecting sleeves down..    But  ya know?      what  keeps  that  link  AWAY  from the  diff cover  when  running  down the road?   I'd think  just  jouncing along would   cause  that link to  work down..  and   start rubbing on the  cover!     

Maybe when the  truck is on the ground,  and  the  rolling resistance  is  transmitted  back through the  steering.. it  keeps  that link  'where it needs to be'??  

       ...............  Is  the  steering  stabilizer  a   gas shock??...........  and should  keep  tension on this  link..... causing it to   'stay away' from the   differential?                   ummm,  maybe I just answered my  question  about that link!!     My  'shock'  is  toast!

[rancherman]

DONE!

speedy bleeders  worked  perfectly,  and   I  got the  dang  wheel centered pretty  close!   Truck  doesn't pull left or right,   wandering  is  zip,     Other than  overfilling the  PS  and  the resulting puke out the top..  no signs of  leaking..

Brakes  actually release    I  was a little concerned,   My  son   wasn't near as  delicate  as  I would've like to see  when he   installed the pistons!     

Both  axles  are now  churning   synthetic  mobil  axle lube..     75w140.. 

 

I'm going to  rethink  the  place  where the  knob is  for engaging the  4X4..      It's really  in  a    awkward  spot...  but  I gotta admit,  there isn't any real substantial   mounting spots other than the bottom edge of the  dash.  (that has  a steel framework to tie into).

I'm  happy with the Bluetop  steering gear..   It's most definitely   more   responsive than the  4 turn  gear  that was in there.  

Tire noise  is   a lot  quieter now..    I think I was  plowing  a lot of  asphalt  with the old worn  parts!

....  Time to  put her to work,  and   get some  payback  on  all the new parts!

Thanks  guys for all the input, and   tips  for  getting me through this! 

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

Good to hear the ol hammer mill is back on the road. Keep us updated if if you find a new spot for the posi lock lever. I recently installed mine and agree the location is a pretty inconvenient. Also mine engages pretty good but it's kind of a pain to disengage. Double checked all the adjustments any suggestions on that?

[dave110]

Front abs was an option on the 99s, yours may or may not have it.

Wish I didn't have it

[rancherman]

Good to hear the ol hammer mill is back on the road. Keep us updated if if you find a new spot for the posi lock lever. I recently installed mine and agree the location is a pretty inconvenient. Also mine engages pretty good but it's kind of a pain to disengage. Double checked all the adjustments any suggestions on that?

 

Couple  areas  of  concern  on  that posi locker!

You've probably noticed  that when you  TURN the knob,   it  changes  the   setting of the   notches.       The other  thing is   just because the  4X4  light is on,  doesn't mean it's fully engaged.

The switch is  now  reversed to what was in there;   so  when the   rod  goes away  from the switch (to engage)  the  switch  immediately  closes  and lights the light.   I need to adjust or  screw in the switch deeper  so  It's accurate.

And  yes,   when there is  pressure on the  axle,  it's  impossible to disengage.     Try  disengaging the   transfer case first, roll a couple feet,  and it should  be easier.    I had to back up a few feet  today.   Turning the wheel  left and right  should  help too.

The  cable system they use is  a  standard type   knob lock  with   'turn to  fine adjust'  type   latch.   I have  them on my   stationary engines.   Pull it out to  a rough setting for engine speed, and   turn the knob  a little  either  way for   zero in on exact  rpm.   Once the button is  pushed,   the   screw adjuster is  cancelled,  and  the  original  end notches  take over.     

 

Reaching  down and  standing on my head... it's not to  easy NOT to  have  a little  turning  action going on!!   

 

I'm wondering  about  building a bracket  and  mount the  knob right on the  transfer case  shift lever itself..       But  it's  still  WAY  out of  a comfortable   zone for  pulling  

Maybe up on the steering column?    I think there is enough  cable..   I got   about  2 feet   extra  in a  big loop  under the hood to pull  back into the cab.

I  routed my cable  straight through the hole drilled using the template.. and  went straight to the  vp44,   nice easy bend  down to  just ahead of the engine mount,  and another easy bend   to  go past the differential... and  straight into the  CAD housing.