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He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins


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It should be yes.  I thought when you said it looks ok it was showing something?

 

 

 

give me a bit to go back through the code and look through what might be causing the issue.  If you already verified the sda and sca wires ar ein the righ tplace then somehting else must be up.  Have you tried swapping them for good measure?  

Alright,

 

I can't think of anything else that would cause your issues.  

 

you can update the code to write values / info to the serial output of the unit.  Keepimt tab, line 128 delete the // that I highlighted.

Capture.PNG

 

next Add this code to the L_serial tab at line 30

 

else{
  Serial.println(" it is alive, but no shaft speed detected");
  }

Capture2.PNG

 

 Then upload the new code to the arduino using the arrow in the upper left I circled in red.  Once it uploads you can click the mag glass in the upper right corner.  that will bring up a serial window, in the drop down select 115200 and report back if the board is spitting out anything.    It hsould print its alive but no shaft speed if the truck is off, or report back something else if the truck is running.  

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ok so i pulled all the wires out and rewired it starting with the screen and checked after every wire got it wired up on the floor board and it works cant get the exhaust brake to work and when you pull the pot switch it goes to 23cm and drive pressure is reading -12 but it is working is the a way to calibrate the actuator

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Sorry I am not understanding fully what you are asking?

 

IWhen you pull the pot it will go to the value you have on the Pot.  Boost will self right once it sees "idle state"  if you are not watching TPS then you will need to calibrate the sensor, but it isn't really used for most of the vane positiing.  

 

Do you need to calibrate the actuator?  If so tab veinpossend line 38.  Replace the byte in line 37 0x01 to the 0x02 save compile upload and turn on power to the system.  Once the command sends the turbo will walk out and back in then shutoff.  Change the byte back, reupload and continue on your way.

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That's already in the code

 

 

posmanage tab

 

line 87

 

if (turbo_rpm < minimum_turbo_rpm) { 
 if (BoostPressure < 10) {vane_position = 700;} else if (BoostPressure < 20){vane_position = 600 ;} else { vane_position = 500;} //so that the turbo will default to %50 if no rpm sense.
 }
} 

So if psi is under 10 then you get 700, which is 9cm under 20 you get 600 which is 12ish and over 20 psi you get 500 which is 14cm

 

Minimum turbo variable is 1000.

 

I know that section is working since my shaft speed stopped working a bit ago haha.  Ended up being a bad wire, but I wrote that section in to help ensure the turbo works without shaft speed.

Edited by Me78569
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Ok my drive is reading -12 psi and won't change I'm gonna try to ground it straight to battery to hopefully fix that problem but the display says it's at 8 cm and climbs to 13 at around 2700 rpms I can't get the turbo to light till about 2500 I'm gonna adjust my afc to cut down the fuel maybe I'm putting the fire out, smokes like 4 freight trains right now and the eb still don't work haven't figured that out either

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I would look for boost leaks.

 

It is farily  easy to overfuel the turbo down low.  

 

As for the EB, you should just be able to ground out the EB sense wire and it will override the other tuning.

 

Are you using TPS input?   EB mode requires under %5 tps input if you are not using tps then you might have a float TPS value.   If that is the case we can just set the variable for TPS to read 0

Edited by Me78569
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that would be my first guess.

 

If you wanted to bypass the TPS check you can just change

if (digitalRead(EBSwitch) == LOW && ThrottlePosition < 5) { eb_mode = true;} else { eb_mode = false; } //If below %5 then engage Exhaust brake and regulate the exhaust pressure.   

 

To

 

if (digitalRead(EBSwitch) == LOW) { eb_mode = true;} else { eb_mode = false; } //If below %5 then engage Exhaust brake and regulate the exhaust pressure.   

 

 

Starting to get a feel for things yet?  if you haven't yet I would suggest you read through the code.  I tried to comment it pretty well so people could understant the important stuff.

Edited by Me78569
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I understand trust me.  I had my tps sense wire go bad and somehow short to my boost reading haha.  So I thought f it I'll just cut the tps sense wire...well I forgot that tps was considered for a bunch of stuff..ugh

 

However once you get things sorted it will run good.  The code at this point is pretty dang stable and I haven't thought of anything to add in sometime.  

 

I wish there was a shield for connectors so I could trash the screw shield.

 

Hopefully she isn't to critical of my code lololol.

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The little red light on the board should blink very fast. 

 

 

 

Did you swap the wires and make hte change to make the board use pin 9 rather than 10?   

 

It looks like in the code my EB switch was on pin 9 so you would have to pick a new pin and move the EB sense wire to another digital pin

 

 

I am betting the EB sense is causing hte canbus to not get there.  

 

Move the eb sense wire to another wire, change line 38 on the first tab from 9 to whatever pin you move your EB sense to.   

 

If you have not changed line 23 to have a 9 rather than 10 do that.  

 

 

Or you can change the sheild to use pin 10 rather than 9, whatever you would like to do.

 

600px-CAN_BUS_CHANGE_CS.png

Edited by Me78569
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