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  • Crankcase Vent Mod

       (2 reviews)

    Mopar1973Man

    Crankcase Vent Modification for 24V Dodge Cummins Trucks

    People been asking for me to redo this article so here it is.

    Supplies you'll need...

    • 1 stick of 1/2" PVC pipe (minimum of 57" long)
    • 3 - 1/2" PVC elbows slip to slip
    • 1 - 1/2" PVC elbow slip to NPT (male or female)
    • 1 - 1/2" PVC straight connector slip to NPT (male or female)
    • 3" piece of 3/4" heater hose
    • 2 hose clamps
    • 1 Small can of PVC glue
    • Hacksaw
    • Sharpie black marker
    • Tape measure
    • Can of spray paint
    • 1 Zip tie 6" long

    Cut measurements

    • 3" Heater hose
    • 4 1/2" front down pipe
    • 2 1/4" front cross pipe
    • 24" long pipe
    • 5" rear cross pipe
    • 20 1/2" rear down pipe

    NOTE: These measure are my final cut measurements. I suggest cutting a tad long and adjusting as you see fit for your truck.

    So at this point you should have all your materials to assemble. You should assembly your cut pipe and fittings dry without glue and test fit everything. While test fitting be sure to remove all plastic cuttings from the ends of the pipes. Also when test fitting be sure to bottom out all pipes into the fittings. In the supply list I list PVC elbow and a straight connector (male or female) this is totally up to you. You can do either way as long as you have a male and female connection in the end.

    crankcase vent

    Now during my test fitting I was very careful to get the front section of pie back far enough so its not in contact with the upper radiator hose.

    crankcase vent clearance to the radiator hose

    On the rear section you have to be careful of the angle of your down pipe. I've got mine resting on the very tip of the bellhousing. Now that you fairly happy with your fit. Take a Sharpie marker and mark all the elbow positions with a fine line from the elbow to the pipe to note position. This way you can glue the pieces back together in the proper angles. When gluing all the pieces together be sure once again to bottom out all your pipes into the fittings.

    marking the crankcase vent to remember positions

    At this point you will want to stuff your 3" piece of heater hose on the front pipe. Need at least 1" of heater hose on the PVC pipe for clamping.

    crankcase vent clearance

    Now take a rag and a bit of paint thinner or lacquer thinner and wipe all the oil and grime off the pipe assembly. Now take a can of spray paint of the wanted color. It's best to get a spray paint that is chemically correct for plastics. 

    crankcase vent painted

    So you should have a completed Crankcase vent pipe for your truck now. All you have to do is lay it back up on top. Make sure you have your 2 hose clamps on before installing. Slip the heater hose over the crankcase vent nipple. Using the one zip tie tie the rear cross pipe to the top of the hoist ring. Carefully slide the down pipe down and screw on to the rear fitting. 

    crankcase vent with hose clamps

    Opps. the Paint was completely cured. 

    crankcase vent zip tied to the hoist ring

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 6


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    notlimah

       3 of 3 members found this review helpful 3 / 3 members

    Really great write up for an often overlooked mod! 

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    leety

       1 of 1 member found this review helpful 1 / 1 member

    Well once again you've published a gem. 

     

    I figured while I have the crankcase ventilator off for a valve adjustment I'd tackle this brilliant mod.  I have the bottle solution and WOWSERS what a big mess to clean up in the front of my engine compartment.  I cleaned the radiator goo off awhile ago not realizing what caused that.  Now I know.

     

    My paint is drying right now.  I'll send a pix of the final install.

     

    I live and play on some very steep roads so this is not a trivial issue up here.

     

    Thanks so much for doing this follow up article to your first one.  It made my work light and most enjoyable!!!  Much appreciated!!!!

     

    BTW I used a ratcheting PVC cutter rather than a hack saw, much easier and tidier.  For $16 I figured the tool was worth the time savings et all.

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