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    Central Michigan

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  1. I’ve looked in the FSM and a few wiring diagrams in the places I’d thought it would be but I can’t find anything about this connector. its been there for years like this since I bought the truck, the interior lights work, so does the horn and gauges. its in the loom of wires that runs on the steering column if that helps, unless you just know what it is you evil genius you.
  2. For awhile I had the harbor fright special that read abs also, could clear and read codes but that’s about it. Then went to the snappy “brick” as it’s fondly called, worked great. Still have it. have a newer used snappy solus now and very happy with it, very nice to have a live graph when finding issues in vehicles.
  3. Off topic, but please tell me more about that center console. That could be nice to have.
  4. From inside framerail side to side is 36 1/2” right above the rear axle.
  5. As far as I know the frames weren’t different, mounting locations may have been but not sure. I found a C&C truck near me for sale and measured it out to compare to my truck and it was the same. But compared to a 2500 it could be different. I found a lot of frame info also on Dodgeram.info about the frame stuff. http://dodgeram.info/2001/dimensions.html i will have to take pictures in the morning, I’ll upload them then. Got out late due to machine problems.
  6. As far as I know the frames shouldn’t be different, I can go out after work tonight and take pictures of my frame and measurements if ya want to double check everything.
  7. After a month long road trip there is a few things wrong the oddest is the heating and cooling selection. the truck is limited to either full hot, or full cold and with cold it’s AC only, not just drawing in outside air. it’s the same regardless of fan speed, it’s also gotten “stuck” on one or the other but if you leave it selected to the other long enough, or shut the truck off and turn it back on it’ll go to what is selected. any ideas? All vents work, fan speeds no issues. I also have a heater treater installed but that was put in years ago.
  8. It basically was a direct bolt up. I did mine on the ground just to have the truck weight on it, could be done on a hoist just jack up the rear axle some. Done a few that way. I had to get a longer 1/4-20 bolt to mount the brake line bracket on the frame cause the mount is over the hole. also for the mounts, I had to elongate the one of the top airbag mounting bolt holes in order to clear the lip on the frame, you could easily just cut or grind that part of the frame but I didn’t. took about 2 hrs from start to once I just the just of how the kit went together. as for plumbing them independently, that’s up to you. I choose to so I could adjust the bags separately depending on the load in the bed or the trailer if it’s uneven. But I’ve also seen it argued that having them together is better in case of a air leak they leak or blow out together so you not riding unevenly down the road.
  9. have it on mine, just did a cold northern road trip over the past month. whenever I’d stop for fuel every 300-400 miles or so, I’d touch the filters and to drain, they were warm. So I’d say it’ll warm the filter after awhile if given enough time. I have had a friend that took the relay out of his and wired it to run for over 2hrs due to his filters freezing last year in ND. So I guess you could use it I run it above the fuel-water filter, but also using fleetgaurd filters and was running nothing but pilot/loves/flying j/petro/ta diesel at the time. (35’ gooseneck)
  10. yes! I ordered the bags for a C&C 3500 because I didn’t have the ability to make mounts. https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/Dodge/Ram+Pickup/2001/F2220.html?VehicleID=20011009447 just did a 8k trip with them pulling the gooseneck no problems at 55psi truck rode level
  11. rear has a traditional Detroit locker, took some shim work but fits and operates normally. Reason for shim is it’s for 4.10 and up and I have 3.55 still. Had to take the shins from both sides and place them to one, the right I think? front has a power trax lock-right, nothing special. Kind of a pain in the street when turning, especially in 4x4 but great when going in a straight line. debating on putting lock out hubs on the front to combat this. Cause I don’t wanna deal with and air or electric locker from ARB due to I want simplicity in a locker. im not sure of the part numbers but I can look for them when I get home. I’m gunna stop by later and hopefully find out, it’s a shell that’s always getting new fuel since it’s by the highway and a farming community so. Hopefully it’s good stuff.
  12. Possibly? it’s a C series engine, while 12/24v are B series. But as long as the front gear housing would bolt up I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Things that come to mind is if the pump is bolted higher in case and gear don’t contact, or something with the pump gear Itself being to big/small, cut differently.
  13. Not sure if I agree with the diesel 911 testing, cause doesn’t it go in the tank AFTER the fuel is gelled? But other than that, seems like a solid testing effort. i don’t know the guy, but wanted to share.
  14. I thought about doing that, but between moving from WA to OK I didn’t want to mess with more fab work than I needed to, already had to finish up the trailer. but I do like the Square tubing supports you have under the bottom plate, I’m thinking of doing that to mine, after the last few days they have a bit of a sag inward so supports are in the future regardless
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