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  1. Thankfully work is steady and just got the bike road ready again (finished a way overdue cam swap) so that’ll help the wallet some. covid is just annoying at this point. But next time, adrenaline or bust, because I’d like to play with more air and fuel sooner than later.
  2. I tried the cheaper resettable breakers Like mentioned, hated both. Bought an Eaton hi-amp marine breaker (150 amp) for around $70 and still have yet to have it trip. The only 2 times it has tripped is when I did it just to make sure the truck sensed it. eaton part #82150
  3. Ended up getting the xzt again, close on a house next week and just couldn’t bring myself to spend the extra on the adrenaline.
  4. New tuner installed after loading tune, it’s nice to have power down low again. 50 mile trip and no issues.
  5. CEL went off after hooking the truck back up without XZT. Cleared the codes once i got into the truck under generic codes. but looks like I need a new tuner so next weekend I’ll see who’s having sales. I emailed quadzilla support yesterday to see if they’ll repair the board in what I have first.
  6. I’ve never used ducky products but I’ve heard good things. I’d go with the 75 hp controlled fuel droppers, and always new. Tried a set of remans once and 3 ended up bad out of the box.
  7. Those look like the right pins, I pulled a connector I had apart off another ecm and they look the same from what I can tell.
  8. Went to the store, light came back on. On the way home the truck didn’t want to build more than 10lbs of boost or go over 2k rpm, and was painfully slow to get there. 1st/2nd gear starting was no problem but trying to gain speed was stupid, drove home in 4th. unhooked the XZT and ran it around. CEL is still on but can build boost, egts are slightly lower, and can run the truck through the gears no problem with being rpm limited. hooked up scanner to clear codes and now it won’t connect to the truck. I can read the abs codes, but cant get Into the ecm to clear codes or read them. Scanner is a snappy solus pro, verified it working with the Jeep I have sitting at the house and uses the same personality key, k-13. gunna unplug the batteries again and see if that’ll clear the code. *update* I can connect to the truck specifically to clear the ecm codes, but if I enter it globally I can read and clear it. Strange.
  9. About an hour from hole last nights the check engine light went out after I drove through a bumpy construction zone. So that makes me think is a connection problem. The pins in the xzt looks good, and the sensor. The wiring from the sensor to the ecm looks good so maybe it’s a pin on the ecm connector or the wire itself. Does anyone know where to get the pins? The wire is easy, but are the pins Cummins specific or if it fits it’s good.
  10. The connection looks decent here, cleaned it up and put dielectric grease on it. No change Unplugged the batteries and it went away for a bit. Came back. I’ll have to check the wiring when I get home. Pretty sure my scanner can do what the dtc instructions are asking so I can read voltage.
  11. It’s the 2nd time this month the check engine light has come on for this code. I replaced it 2 weeks ago with a new one from Cummins in el paso because I’ve been traveling, this morning the light came on again. i thought something looked off getting on the highway today when I saw on gray smoke and a little black from the exhaust. is there something that is the culprit usually other than a sensor? I’ll be home late tonight or tommorow, but if I can fix it on the road that would be cool to.
  12. I’m just a few behind at 379k. I’ll catch up more now that it’s a daily again since the 318 is done for in the 1500.
  13. I also vote @dieselautopower for parts. for body/interior it’s usually between genos garage or LMC truck.
  14. Looks like the brand new Bosch injector I had to buy a few yrs ago in a pinch when I had one fail on me at lake havasu. I think that one was laser engraved also.
  15. Sounds just as clapped out as mine then, but doesn’t bother me much. If I used a plow maybe
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