Towrigdually

Well. I believe resealing the fuel bow was the issue all along, truck starts right Up now without hesitation.

So, parts came in. Couldn’t use none of it, completely wrong o-rings and drain assembly. Way to go dorman… anyways, made new o-rings and waiting on glue to cure currently before install. put a new oring on the filter lid, put some sil-glyde on it to help seal. Also put new copper crush washers on in/out of fuel bowl. I’ll Find out soon enough, been slowly going, thinking I have possibly caught sickness..

So! Been busy, but I plugged the drain on the factory fuel bowl. It’s seem to have gotten better, but not hit right off, cranks once or twice before it starts. I ordered a new drain off rockauto, comes with new o-rings so that’ll be here Thursday and will work forward from there.

I’ll give it a shot! Cheap is always better in my book

Been working this issue the last few months between work trips, finally home long enough to actually dive into it. Think I have it narrowed down, but would like bounce ideas off the brain collective. issue is if the truck is left longer than 12hrs you’ll have to cycle the lift pump for a bit to start first hit of the key. If not it’ll crank 5-10 seconds before start. Tried it all, on hills nose up/down and flat ground also. Truck has new fuel lines, new rubber seals at fittings, new injectors and seals, all fittings are tight with no leaks. the only “leak” I’ve noticed on the truck is the water drain on the factory fuel bowl, not much but enough to see a dark spot on the motor mount. I also vaguely remember the old injectors being covered in fuel on the outside of the bodies when I pulled them out. my thought is the drip from the fuel drain shouldn’t cause it, but maybe the crossover tubes are worn enough to cause the issue? This is the 4th set of injectors that I know of they’ve been on. also, the only codes currently are 0122/0500/1693 thoughts?

I bought my dually when I lived in the barracks in San Diego, did ALOT of work in the parking lot. Got many tickets for it. Almost lost base driving privileges. go to Cummins, or even the store on here, and get a vacuum pump seal kit. comes with instructions that are decently detailed. Just pay attention to which way the coupler seal goes in. I think genos garage sells new nylon pieces for the pump as well. as for tools, I did way to much witch just the basic $40 tool kit from harbor freight, a screw driver set, big orange mallet, and some pieces of 2x4 that I bought and hame depot cut for me. Did the steering box and linkages with all those same tools. as long as the steering shaft comes off the box, the rest is simple. Does Lejeune not have a base auto hobby shop? Usually get a hoist bay for $12hr or less, cheaper if just an open bay. Plus tools are free to grab and use.

I bought the cheapest eBay special I could 6 yes ago when the tank split on mine, so far so good. If that helps at all. I also have known people to run the cheap aluminum ones from eBay with good results.

That list sounds like my 95 1500 that I started to put Dana 60s under. Now I have a 5.9 to rebuild instead of the 5.2. And decided to redo the interior. It’s a rabbit hole.

Do you have a disc or drum 80? I can check mine, it’s disc, and see which type of seal. As for breather tube, just pull straight up. Should come off easily.

Wouldn’t hurt, especially if the rubber is starting to push out of the one you have. Last time I bought a factory one it was cheapest from throughbred diesel.

The vacuum/ps pump seal kit is only $20 so it’s cheap enough if you want to. But I’m a believer of don’t fix what isn’t broke. Check the KDP behind the cover, you’ll already have the seal out and rtv can reseal the cover quick enough. with the coolant system drained check the freeze plugs, Replaced a few last week for a guy, so I think some of these trucks are getting to that point in life.

Another choice I had the fun to install was a fleece lift pump. replaces factory and will use factory lines if you want, but you can route 1/2” lines if you want. been good so about 8k now and climbing, the person I installed it for seems happy with it so far. And he’s not exactly gentle on the truck either, it’s a farm truck and travels from Michigan to Tennessee a few times a year.

Truck looks good! Also, As someone else with a disc brake dually truck, keep an eye on the fluid level. They are expensive to replace. I now grease the bearings yearly. Passenger side is usually the problem child with the oiling issues.

It should be a straight swap, the pinion might be longer so that might affect driveshaft length.

Torque king or quad4x4, whatever it’s called anymore, sells a good rebuild kit. Good timken bearings in the kit I got.

that the kit I used last spring, fit was good and no leaks so far. and I recommend a 24” extension, drop the panel under the wheel and it’s a straight shot to the 4 nuts against the firewall.

When mine locked up last summer I drove it for about 2 weeks due to working 16hr days. I will say this, just buy the OEM from either the dealer or genos garage, I tried the part store special, the good gmd brand from rockauto, and lastly the amazon special. All stayed locked or didn’t lock at all. OEM was the only one that worked properly From the box.

I’ve used this before when shortening shafts for a mud truck or Offroad vehicle. This way I know how much To remove. But as said before, call the shop your going to use and see how they want it measured. they might measure it differently.

After driving coast to coast a few times for work. the most I can say is basic hand tools, spare fluids, some fuses, and a belt. Beyond that you’ll need hard parts, I travel with pandora or Spotify playing so I know when I actually have service.

Could be the chain jumping gears in the transfercase, might binding up and causing the bang noise.

Don’t see why a synthetic 75w-90 wouldn’t work, as long as it have the limited slip addictive in it or you add it the truck should be fine. im running Lucas 85w-140 in my 1500 with a Dana 70/60 swap. Mostly cause I ordered the wrong fluid from summit, but it’s been fine for 4yrs now without issue.

Been running the xzt myself, had it with rv275 injectors with the 1000 series tunes. Now have the 90hp injectors with the 2000 series. used the 1000 series with the 90s a bit but it surged some when cruising between 1900-2100 rpm unless it was loaded. Smoke is about the same between 1000 and 2000. If I remember right, got about 16-17 mpg with the rv275 cruise set to 70. Right now getting about 15-16 cause I’m doing a lot of city driving, on highway set to 70 I’ve gotten 19. and I get the best mileage by leaving it set to the “65hp” mode. probably could get better mileage, these injectors have about 38k on them.

The first sounds like a similar issue I had with my truck when I got it, jack up the from and spin the tire. I had 1 that was kind of egg shaped on one side due to a broken belt. New tires and issue was solved. if it’s not tires and you don’t want/know how to check the front suspension parts. Find a shop that does alignment checks for free and have them check stuff, if they can’t do it I’m sure they’ll print a list of what’s wrong and ask them to quote the parts this way you have a copy of what to order. For the slowing down issues it’s time to take the tires off and check all the work that’s been done. for the noise you might again have to verify work done by dropping trans, but pull front driveshaft if 4x4 and see if it changes. Could be a bad double cardigan or transfer case.

That’s what I’ve been using here in Oklahoma, no issues yet.

My truck makes the humming/light vibration when cold also, especially right now In Oklahoma. wrote is off as cold fluid And usually goes away after a minute or so. I will say it was worse with my old pump, got a new one from oriellys last summer when my brakes/steering wanted to check out. but since you can’t steer even at a idle when sitting still, I’d say the pump is done. Especially if you did all the other work to ensure good fluid and new lines without leaks or air.