Towrigdually

i dont have a BD, but i have the DPS 3 piece. bought it after the OEM cracked. it seemed to spool faster, but thats all i really noticed. either way 4 years later havent had any issues.

trying to flash an XZT, i followed the video for windows 7 using the 32 bit installer. i click the tune file to download from the desktop after plugging in the box, i then click ''get information from module'' but i keep getting a popup box saying retry or cancel, even after multiple retry attempts. unplugging and plugging in, even downloading the tune again and still the same thing. any idea? ive also tried 3 different cords that all say data transfer so those are good too.

i thought those were for the adrenaline only, i can use them on mine?

Dumb question, but where is everyone getting xzt tunes from?? I wanna try a different tune for mine, I can follow the downloading video no problem but I've looked all over for tunes but can't find any.

after todays travelling, it goes away with the switch off. i guess its time to upgrade and learn.

Ill give it a shot today after filling up. have about 2hrs to go. I'll have to download the tuner downloader software and try and see what helps. If not I'll be adrenaline bound.

I was thinking that to, gunna try a reset tommorow after I wash all the grime off. Dont wanna fire the parts cannon just yet.

So your saying it's possible. Interesting. I maybe have to dust off the laptop.

Left yesterday to go get a new trailer. And I'm not sure if this is a tuner issue or a truck issue. Codes on truck are for ABS only. When the truck is running 70 at 2k rpm with XZT on the 75hp mode it'll surge. I can drive it out with my foot and it'll go away below 1800rpm and above 2300 rpm. When cruise control is set it doesn't do it at all. When set to MPG mode it does it light surge and still have to play with throttle or set cruise to get rid of it. With switch to off its hard to tell when it surges. Now, with the trailer behind it and the switch to 75hp position, it surges when I'm going down a grade and try to keep my foot where it maintains a set speed but if I let off and just coast down its smooth. And when I'm trying to run 55-60mph if I'm between 2000-2250 rpm it surges but if I get to about 23-2400rpm it's no problem. Also, with cruise set it goes away. Hopefully someone one smarter than me can recommend something? During the entire trip fuel pressure was never less than 15psi, fuel never below 1/4 tank, didn't break 190*f either. new trailer photo just because

surface grinder works the best if you access to one. Hardest part is setting up the table to hold the head so you have the entire surface available and don't have to changing mounting halfway through. but when I needed mine done and didn't have access to a shop I use a big rig machine shop. They knew the head casts by number and what to look for. Showed me the common problem areas. Even took a picture of the head after the first pass and how bad it was. couldn't complain about the 1 day turnaround either or the price.

between the video and post here I know more than I did last week about the magical box that fuels the oil burner. But Even if the VP has been known to be problematic, stuffs out there to fix the issues. every truck of any brand is gunna have issues. This truck is just a fuel or electronic gremlin. Still, glad to have bought a truck with an easily drivable an tunable pump regardless of location and climate i find myself in.

Same, atleast I know what I'm talking about now with the pump!

Should Be straight forward. Hardest bolts to remove will be the on bottom, especially the front in my experience. You wont be the first to replace a turbo in a hotel lot, I had to replace mine and also remove, clean, and replace the intercooler when my new turbo went out last spring in Alabama! But the hotel people didn't care, just clean up your mess best ya can.

dont know the fella, but follow him on instagram and he posted this. some decent info if others didnt know, some i didnt know either. really hope is continues to how he put the VP44 24v in his 1st gen truck.

Have the same yoke on my truck and noticed that cap issue when I first got it also it, a new yoke strap kit cured that problem. I also run greaseable moog super strength u-joints without any complaints.

Have fast coolers and installed in my truck from a trade deal. Have the filter also, might be awhile but when I pull the cover to change fluid I'll let ya know how the filter looks. And if it's even done anything. But it I will say since I've started running it the trans isn't as stiff to shift into 3rd, was getting kinda rough due to worn synchros

Been running around with a Bluetop for the past 40k, it's still tight with no issues what so ever. I'd buy from them again.

tested everything out tonight using the work fluke, used the alligator clips on the rear sensor, rear connection, and used the paper clip method on the CAB connector. All reading came out the same. I think it's time to Chase wires, I have a feeling my issue is behind the fuel tank so I'll be putting it on hold till I run the tank down more. Then the search begins.

Tonight I'll bring home my fluke from work, it's I. Better shape than my home one, and certified so maybe I'll get a better read. Will test the sensor, sensor pigtail, and CAB connection tomorrow again using the paper clip method. I'll post back results.

I used ohms at first, then switched to see if I got the beep

Sensor come back good, fluke beeps at me. So I guess now is time to play the follow the wire game.

when I read the abs CAB connection I read nothing. And when the brake pedal is pressed while running the scanner shows, 37 intermittent systems control module timeout

Where is the CAB connector exactly? Or what is it? I'm not sure if it follows but I can check.

Truck wiring at 5.60 ohms while the sensor is at 18.14 ohms