2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys. I'm at my uncles this weekend and he says he had a programmer that changes tire sizes. I have been wanting to do that for a bit so I said sure. I didn't even think it would try to tune my truck also. I have my comp box in the truck as well. I set the tire size and went for a drive. It felt like the the timing was all over the place!!!! I turned the comp off and it seemed to smoothen out but I have a serious power loss now. I tried to get back in with the other programmer to erase all its settings and now it won't recognize the truck. It says that it's not the original vehicle. This programmer is a smart chips "micro max" tuner. Obd II plug in. I have to drive 20…

i bought a 00 cummins with alot of k. engine is tired found an 02 with 120kms for dirt cheap. i heard the interchange is 02 only? what is different?

I was wondering if removing it the silencer ring actually gave you more boost or cooler egt? I know it gives you a little more whistle didn't know if there was any other benefit to it. Thanks

Hi noobie here on this site!Just wondering! I'm having hard time finding any info if it's ok to run the Rotella 0-40 syn diesel oil?? I'm in northern Ontario and we see temps as low as -50 Celsius!!! ya it gets really cold! I heard of lots of guys running the oil up here and getting 400,000 + km on there rigs but sill just looking for some more input!Thanks

Hey im doing a clutch install in my 02 six speed. Got the trans down and out and im looking for my pilot bearing but there is none. Nothing. Stock original clutch. Did it bust apart and fall out? Also, there is alot of what looks like grease and oil in the bell housing, im guessing from the throw out bearing, but there seems to be alot of it. The bearing spins very free and has hardly any play in it. Dd the grease come from there? The input shaft has very little play as well. Where else could the **** come from?

I just checked out the XDP fuel tank sump and like the idea of it. I can install it without pulling the fuel tank. Are any of you guys running one? They are a bit pricy, but worth it I think. If I install one I'll go with a half inch stainless line to the front and mount my Air Dog FRRP back near the tank. That should solve any fuel issues.

Greetings-From Steffen at DTT ...I purchased the Assassin Mechanical Fuel Pump for my '98 24 Valve-I also purchased the Vulcan Double (Filter and H20 Separator)To install along with it. My idea of how to install the Pump etcis as vague as the instructions included with the pump. Which consists of a simple line diagram with little or no descriptions of where different fittings, filters, hoses go...there are not even instructions as to where to put the pump...where the individualbolst may go. Yes-given lengths of time and trial and error I could most likely figure it out, but I have had my truck off the road (A FUll MOTH) waiting for this pump. I already replaced my Inj…

Putting rv 275 in right now. Where is that thread that tells you how. Just need some torque specks for the injector holders. Little 5/16 nuts. Thanks

:banghead:Yeah gang... I destroyed my turbo with a wire hose clamp. During my oil change and boost leak fixing I laid my BHAF on the workbench and inadvertently knocked a wire hose clamp in the BHAF from the peg board above. Installed the filter and took a ride. Boost kept getting lower and EGT rising whistle changed big time. Hua?! Went home to find the first pic and the 2 ears of the clamp in the BHAF. The rest of the ring I'm hoping is in the intercooler. :pray:Engine still runs fine... So I need a turbo... First and foremost.I know that S#!7 happens but man this make me sick...

I have decided that all I need for my almost stock truck (injector upgrade before I got it) is a replacement aftermarket lift pump like a FASS or Raptor. I read some good and some bad about both.. Any opinions about which one would be the best way to go?I have a motor mounted pump on my 2001 and I am told I wouldn't need a draw straw. Would everyone agree with that?I also plan to put a big line kit all the way from the tank to the VP44 and a pre-filter before the pump.Thanks in advance for any opinions or advice.

Hello everyone. Iam in the middle of driving from Idaho to North Dakota and am having issues in Glendive, MT. I turned off o!f the interstate and slowed to ~15 mph before merging on to a different highway. My truck accelerated fine and at ~45 mph a check engine light came on and I lost all of my accelerator function. I am 770+ miles into the trip and everything else has been fine until now. It is about 10 degrees out so i am afraid to shut off and attempt a restart/check codes via key trick in fear of freezing to a pop sickle overnight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!P.s. I am running anti-gel in the fuel so plugged filter shouldn't be an i…

My truck has always fired up quick. A few times lately, after I start it and drive short distance, then jump in and go to turn the ignition switch briefly like usual, but it doesnt fire, then second attempt it has to crank awhile(longer than usual), not much, then it fires up. Changed the fuel filter(stock filter wasnt bad at all and the canister was clean as a whistle inside) and it did it again today after I drove to the store. Fuel pressure is fine. New VP a couple years ago. Just wondered if this happens to anyone else? It's never done this before. No fuel leaks anywhere. Truck runs great other than that.

My truck all of the sudden stalls when I put into a drive gear F or R .when I do get it going it seems to drive fine until I get to a red light as I slow down at about 8mph it seems to downshift and idle goes up. when I come to a complete stop it seems as if someone is behind me pushing me and if i let off of the brake truck wants to take off. I made it home and did some checking and if i start it it idles fine when i get it to run in gear with my foot on the brake the accelerater does not respond .i can mash it all the way to the floor and nothing happens if i let go of the brake it will start to roll then the pedal responds.can anyonr help?Thanks

So now that I got my RV275s in and tapped the pump I have been running on level 3X3 to save my auto. The other day I started watching the EGTs and empty going up a bit of a grade I stomped it and my EGTs came up to 1200, thats the highest I have ever seen the gauge go but never had pump tapped and only ran on level 1 before. My boost was around 30ish and I was going about 75-80mph in a hurry. I have noticed since the RV275s that the EGTs seem to climb higher before the boost starts to come on. It will hit 800-900 and barely have any boost building. Does that seem normal? What level do you guys tow on? My trailer is a 30 footer and 9800lbs. I don't think I have a boost…

I replaced my alternator and belt recently and since then I've noticed a weird voltage issue when I start up the truck first thing in the morning. When I first turn on the key voltage comes up to 12V. As the engine cranks it drops momentarily to 8.5-10V, then when the engine is running voltage returns to about 11.5V. It stays there for 10-15 seconds until then the alternator pulls it up to 14V. Then the voltage (and the engine to a lesser extent) starts surging between 12.5 and 14V. This continues for a couple minutes and then things even out where they should be (about 14.5V).I'm confused!

Alright guys i just purchased a new to me truck and are having some problems. 1999 dodge 3500 4x4 cummins 174k miles in last 6 months it has had newInjection pump, steering gear box, leveling kit, shocks, control arms, trac bar, trans within last 25000 miles brand new tirez, Ive done a good amount of reading here and on cummins forum. Any help to get me steered in the right direction will be greatly appreciated. Bought truck 12/31/12 and have put around 80 miles on it 60 of which were trip home!Truck had injection pump replaced 25000 miles agoI will start with my ride home after purchase....-Truck ran strong up until 21-2200 rpm then dead pedal. Let off then re-accelerat…

after reading many posts on this issue.. This is a pretty common problem.Ours comes on after it self-diagnoses (after engine start) and before vehicle moves...I'm confused though on this, if the sensors are at fault or inbalanced, wouldn't it cause the warning light to come on AFTER the vehicle moves?? Will do the fuse check and visual inspection of connections here this morning...

My son`s 99 has been leaking power steering fluid from the gearbox for some time now, and due to:broke: ..he has just kept adding fluid.Well he just called after leaving for work this morning and said he does`nt have any power steering, and only has rear brakes.I`m pretty sure that repeatedly running the PS low on fluid has toasted the pump.I`m not exactly familiar with how the power assist works here, but I`m assuming that a new pump, gearbox, and steering shaft are now top of the agenda..

Going to have to do a clutch in my '02. H.O. Putting thinking about a valair organic/organic. @ 400 hp. It is a daily driver, work truck. Only mods is an EZ box. My only future upgrades will be a set of rv275'sI'm under a time constraint here. i have a couple of questions. Do i have to resurface the flywheel? The clutch is just starting to slip under WOT now. If it looks ok with no heat cracks or deep grooves? Ive got 307,000 on the stock clutch.

My wastegate is apparently stuck shut. For a long time I was trowing overboost codes and defeuling. Then I out a XZT on it and no longer worried about it. The boost fooler in the XZT made the sticking wastegate work to my advantage. Well now it appears that the wastegate is not doing anything anymore and I have bounced of of 30 lbs. of boost a couple of times. I don't know how far the fooler goes or if it totally cuts out the defuel and codes. I do not want to be blowing the head gaskets out.Rick