Hey guys thank's for having me been looking around on this website for a while. That being said I am in serious need of help before I lose my mind. I have a 2001 QCLB with a 6 speed transmission. I needed to replace my dash and bezel so I bought a LMC truck dash and bezel. Il while doing it I figured I would do the heater core and accumulator. I have my dash completely loose and rolled forward but j can't for the life of me move the P/S of the dash far enough out to remove the HVAC box. Am I suppose to remove the center shifter plastic assembly? Im starting to lose hope in this project and any help would be great thanks guys

Call Michael Nelson in the morning he likes advising folks. Knows the truck well. He owns the forum and is the very best sort in my opinion

(208) 628-3645

Ahhh...

 

4 or 5 screw in the top of the dash.

Knee bolster has to be dropped to get the steering wheel dropped another 2 more nuts.

Then pull up the cup holder and remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts under the cupholder near the airbag module.

Then just loosen 2 bolts at the kick panel.

 

Lift passenger side up and swing to the seat. Use a cam buckle strap to hang from the grab bar on the passenger side.

 

If your stuck call me I'll be home tomorrow.

Well Michael was a great help installing the new dash and putting everything back together in the HVAC box. Big thanks for that. Got everything installed and buttoned up. So I hooked up the PCM and the batteries and went to go start the truck nothing.. No dash lights or fass running with the ignition in the on position. I did get the door chime with the key in the on position and the under hood light. When I lock the doors they lock but no longer have the horn beep when you lock the doors with the remote. I have no clue what is going on. When I was installing the D/S battery I did make contact with the positive side of the battery to some medal objects causing a spart thus making me check the PDC box fuses but all looks to be well under there. Any ideas?

Check all fuses with ohm meter I've seen fuses crack and appear to be fine but the element is crack and no longer flowing power. Test light can be used on normal blade fuses but ohm meter has to be used on the larger square fuses.

 

Also it always best to un-hook the negative cable that way there is never a chance of arcing a cable. Hooking up a batteries should always be positive first and then negative last. This prevents this issues from occurring.

Thanks will do and report back

Found it! It was the red ignition wire. Air bag light is on will it eventually go off? I did reconnect the airbag

Double check again. Something isn't plugged in yet.

 

DANGER!

You might want to disconnect the NEG cable again for at least 5 minutes before messing with any air bag wiring or plugs. A air bag that goes off can be very dangerous.