Can anyone send a pic of the wiring on the back of a gauge pod high idle switch? Thanks.

Edited October 9, 20159 yr by Raddemc

is yours having issues? post some pics show us what happened?

The check engine light turns on when it's flipped. That's why I wanna see the wiring.

Pictures won't do you much good as they all have a ton of heat shrink wrap on back of the switch.

What's the code it throws?

More than likely one of the resistors has broken due to stress on the harness/switch pins.

All the shrink wrap is on mine. If I can figure out how to post pics I would show you.

The codes it throws are 0113,0118,1693. It will rev up to high idle but not 3cyl mode.

The ground wire in the wiring before the switch is busted somewhere in the cable.  It is the bare wire. 

 

 

Having looked at a number of these I can tell you that if you want to fix it you will need to run a new ground wire to the sensor. 

How can I post pics on here? I can show you where there is solder on one of the posts but no wire. It's like one of the little jumper wires broke off.

One of the posts on the switch is supposed to be empty.  

 

 

The issue is in your ground wire in the cable at some point.  A single solder break on the switch itself will not cause those 2 codes.  the only you have both of those codes is a break in the ground wire from the ecm.

 

 

 

posting a picture

 

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/478-adding-an-image-to-a-post-on-mopar1973man-com

It'd the post between the yellow coated wire and the black coated wire. The post is there with solder on it but nothing on it.

One of the posts on the switch is supposed to be empty.  

 

 

The issue is in your ground wire in the cable at some point.  A single solder break on the switch itself will not cause those 2 codes.  the only you have both of those codes is a break in the ground wire from the ecm.

 

Ok I think we found the wire. So does that bare wire attach to the post that's empty?

No the Empty post stays empty.

 

The bare wire is broke at some point between the switch and the plug on the IAT.

Ok thanks we will try and solder the wire back into the loom. Thanks!

Well that's what it was. What a wimpy little wire. Solder in a new one. Works perfect now thank you!

The old high idle switch did have a couple issues like this in the ground wire.  

 

In the New High Idle Switch we are building now we have stepped up the gauge of the wire to prevent this issue. 

 

We have also designed a PCB board to connect the switch to.  This means that you will no longer see wires breaking off the switch.  The Harness is also different since it uses a 8 pin molex to connect to the board.

 

you can see updates to that product here /index.php?/topic/10499-the-time-has-come-to-produce-the-high-idle-switches-again/">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/10499-the-time-has-come-to-produce-the-high-idle-switches-again/

It looks great! Prob is I don't need 2! If I do have another prob I'm buying a new one. Thanks for the help!

Yep,

Another note the old high idle switch wasn't produced by the site rather a member. The new ones are designed and built by the site.

The idea for the switch and the theory for how it works is thanks to moparman himself.