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Bob, just some suggestions for reliability which may not solve your problem. Get rid of the inside the tank lift pump and go with a Fass with the filters. Cut out the screens inside the tank and
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That was my thought too. Color. 2 Cycle Oil tints the fuel that strange blue-green color.
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The return goes to the fuel pump module, which is not pictured since it is removed. There is a severe duty vent kit offered. I believe you want 68061341AA with a long bed.
Starting to have a dead pedal symptom. When I shift, sometimes the pedal goes dead, no engine response for a second or 2, then it comes back to life. Initially it started as a hiccup. Would just be noticeable between shifts. No codes, new symptom is first start today was rough, low idle, ran ~5 seconds then died. Started back up with no issues, minus the hiccup/dead pedal issues. Around a year ago had the FCA go out. Replaced it ran fine.
This winter I have had to plug the block heater in since the batteries are going out. Or else they almost don't have enough juice to start the truck after cycling the grid heater. Yea I have one bad grid heater solenoid so only running on one heater now as well.
Another thing that I finally tied into voltage is once it gets cold enough for the grid heaters, is that when the grid heater cycles off, and battery voltage comes back up the dash dings and some warning lights flash.
I have the smarty touch and desired charging voltage is 15V. Is that a little high? Trying to figure out how to display the datalog I took with the smarty to see when the non-responsive pedal is tied to something else.
The 2 red top optimas I'm running are maybe 8-9 years old. They were in my 01 ram. Got this truck and swapped them over. Wondering if bad batteries could cause this. If so, I have to research batteries now.
Edited by Cowboy