I have been dumping good bit of $$$ to make this truck the best it can be.

I recently got the front end in order.. removing leveling kit, poly bushings in upper and lower control arms, new track bar, steering box and brace.. added a deep trans pan and gauge.. new injectors.. brakes and lines all the way around including the Chevy 1 ton cylinders.x

What can/should I do to my truck for performance & reliability.. besides routine/preventive maintenance? That's a given.. Most importantly for towing my camper anywhere I'd like to go (long distance.) Getting an exhaust brake is high on my priority list. 

Other things I'm thinking about are.. an oil bypass system, larger rear diff cover and traction bars.. but not sure these make sense?

The previous owner disconnected the original fuel filter assembly on the side motor and i was thinking about removing until.. I think Mike mentioned that I should hook it back up for better filtration.

Your thoughts and suggestions welcome!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 26, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

8 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You need to redo that lower clamp. Either the steel tube is shoved too deep or you got the clamp too high. 

I normally don't use any lubes on the boots this way they stick to the ends and don't blow off. I typically use a orange degreaser from Home Depot that makes the boot very slick for short time once it dres it sticks in place and a PITA to remove. 

 

The new boots are all a bit longer than the old... the upper went over both ribs and I have the clamp between the ribs. Is this a problem?

10 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Just for learning value. Most times people with excessive blow by are informed to check vacuum lines first thing. Because a disconnected vacuum line can imitate bad rings... Being the vacuum pump exhausts into the crankcase and then vents out the crankcase vent. 

This is why am checking my vacuum lines... but... what are other signs of a vacuum leak? Cruise control not working? Any others?

Just appears it was shoved in too deep that's all. As long as the clamp is positioned correctly I don't see a problem.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Just appears it was shoved in too deep that's all. As long as the clamp is positioned correctly I don't see a problem.

Cool... because I thought about cutting them down but didn't want to booger them up 

I would like to remove this elbow at bottom of turbo to give me room to get the boot on. Is there a gasket in there I would need to replace if I did? 

There is a o-ring. Should be able to re-use it. I'm a bit worried abut that nasty rusted nut.

okay.. thanks. I'll replace the nut :-)

Well.. I got em on there. It was quite a fight.. didn't help that I didn't pay attention to which direction the pipe went before I removed it.. :-(   Did a boost leak test.. tightened up a couple of clamps and intake horn bolts and good to go.

Anyway... I inspected some of the vacuum lines and connections. Didn't find any cracked lines but some of the rubber boots/connectors are pretty dry and brittle. My power steering/vacuum pump seems to be leaking between the two.. pretty wet down there and when turning hard one way or the other it groans a little. I guess that'll be next on the to do list. Not looking forward to that. 

I was hoping to find a vacuum leak somewhere.. my breather hose is blowing smoke like a freight train. I get some smoke out of the oil filler too but the cap doesn't dance around... 

Most likely the fluid in the power steering needs to be flushed out. That's why its groans. As for the vacuum pump you can rebuild it for about $13 bucks cheap and easy.

 

I need to tackle this myself.

36 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Most likely the fluid in the power steering needs to be flushed out. That's why its groans. As for the vacuum pump you can rebuild it for about $13 bucks cheap and easy.

 

I had the Redhead put in a month ago.... Would the power steering have been flushed when the new steering box was put in?  

9 minutes ago, dodgedieselnewbie said:

Would the power steering have been flushed when the new steering box was put in?  

Should of... Most shops don't. I would check the fluid level allow a drop to hang and look at the color a very light amber color is good. Dark brown is bad. Any red color is bad. ATF should not be used.

I'll check the color... About how long should it take a novice to do the rebuild? 

Oh.. and can I pick up a rebuild at Napa?

Couple of hours tops on a Saginaw box.

17 minutes ago, dodgedieselnewbie said:

I had the Redhead put in a month ago...

As for Redhead there is no rebuild kits that I know of. So I don't know what to say there...

Opps... Vacuum pump my bad. That is about 2 hours tops as well.

 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Couple of hours tops on a Saginaw box.

As for Redhead there is no rebuild kits that I know of. So I don't know what to say there...

Opps... Vacuum pump my bad. That is about 2 hours tops as well.

 

LOL... so 4 hours for a novice such as myself! :-) Thank you.. 

Almost forgot... I saw this residue in one of my old boots.. the bottom passenger side that connects to the intercooler. It was a little tacky.. didn't really come off when I ran my finger across it. 

Took about half a day for me to do the vacuum pump. It's not hard I found a pretty good video on YouTube. Could it be oil?

I found a couple of videos as well.. Didn't seem like oil but looked like it. It was stuck to the wall and felt a little tacky.  Thanks

Filter oil? Typically what is used for K&N and washable filters is a spray on oil that typically turned very tacky in few mintues.

10 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Filter oil? Typically what is used for K&N and washable filters is a spray on oil that typically turned very tacky in few mintues.

Probably so... previously had one! Thanks

I just wanted to say how nice and clean your engine bay looks in the first pic! Nice looking truck man!

Edited March 2, 20169 yr by leathermaneod