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My trailer was not designed for cold weather use. Both hot and cold waterlines cross the trailer and are not protected. 

 

I plan to re-route lines inside the trailer. And maybe even terminate them from going to the bathroom with valves. This would mean no running water in bathroom in winter, but a milk jug will flush toilet. And I don't care about the shower or sink in there. Tub is generally used for storage anyway. ?

 

Even if waterlines are visible in the interior, it'd only be pex pipe. I'd rather see it than have it non functional due to winter shut down. So the hot and cold water at kitchen sink would be functional. Nice features to have.

 

My only concern is the holding tank, which is located up front against the front of the trailer. Might need to make some holes and install computer fans blowing in and out of the area. I've got a couple computer fans already and they take almost no power, but do move air well and run on 12 volt dc. Could put one in the bathroom wall to move heater air into there too. 

Edited by joecool911

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  • Don't forget your black and grey water holding tags are outside exposed--maybe dump some auto antifreeze down both of those.  Mine froze up once on a fishing trip in Wyoming, everything on the inside

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    If the RV is not being moved then I would level it all out and then stack hay bails all the way around the RV. This will insulate the under side then. Now you can plug in a heat lamp in the area near

  • A good use for your used engine coolant but don't let the EPA find out. 

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Don't forget your black and grey water holding tags are outside exposed--maybe dump some auto antifreeze down both of those.  Mine froze up once on a fishing trip in Wyoming, everything on the inside was fine.  The more running fans that you have the more draw on your batteries. If your fresh water tank is inside the trailer you should be alright as long as you keep it above 32*.  That is pretty cold and with regular heaters and furnace I imagine it would be easy to keep that above that.  When I go camping in colder temps we open the cupboards so the plumbing and P traps are exposed to the warmer air as well.

Edited by Hawkez

  • Author
1 hour ago, Hawkez said:

Don't forget your black and grey water holding tags are outside exposed--maybe dump some auto antifreeze down both of those.  Mine froze up once on a fishing trip in Wyoming, everything on the inside was fine.  The more running fans that you have the more draw on your batteries. If your fresh water tank is inside the trailer you should be alright as long as you keep it above 32*.  That is pretty cold and with regular heaters and furnace I imagine it would be easy to keep that above that.  When I go camping in colder temps we open the cupboards so the plumbing and P traps are exposed to the warmer air as well.

Good to hear the fresh water tank should not be a problem. Thanks for the hint on holding tanks. All the more reason to just straight pipe that's stuff right out.?

  • Owner

If the RV is not being moved then I would level it all out and then stack hay bails all the way around the RV. This will insulate the under side then. Now you can plug in a heat lamp in the area near the holding tank to keep them from freezing. A common method of RV owners here in the area. I've seen some do foam panels, hay bails, wood panels, vinyl skirts, etc. Hay bail is going to provide the best insulating factor. Now if all the hook up are under the RV the chances of freeze up are pretty low. The hay bail method tend to hold up well even with -20 to -30*F weather. Just the propane and electric bills are high for RV at those temperatures.

 

  • Author

Mostly concerned with using the trailer in colder weather. But the hay bails are a great idea! 

 

Then studded tires on truck and trailer. Be an awesome rig! 

Edited by joecool911

  • Owner

Going into a more permanent solution would be to build a pole barn over the RV to keep blowing wind and snow off the roof. This will improve the ability of heating the RV as well.  You could insulate the pole barn again with square hay bails. Then you have better access around the RV also if you want to take the RV some where you can just open the barn doors and pull it out. Bad part of enclosed barn is it might make you stir crazy not seeing daylight or outside.  Some folks don't have a problem with this and other can't stand the idea...

 

  • Author

Good discussed, but I'm more interested in year round use. 

  • Staff
10 hours ago, Hawkez said:

Don't forget your black and grey water holding tags are outside exposed--maybe dump some auto antifreeze down both of those.

A good use for your used engine coolant but don't let the EPA find out. 

  • Owner

If all your holding tanks are plastic then you can use rock salt. That will prevent freezing in mild weather. RV anti-freeze might be safe alternate but it doe freeze solid too it just doesn't expand.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.