Anyone know the colors of wires I'm looking for? I'm hooking up a backup camera and a backup light on my canopy. What's the wire color going to the trailer plug that's reverse lights? Is there a better place to tap than the wires going to the trailer plug? Tap connector and liquid electrical tape to make the connection?

It's the VT/BK (violet/black) wire.

 

So, violet with a black stripe? Thanks!

I ran a big 8 gauge wire to the trailer plug. Can I run a relay from the reverse wire to trigger the relay and power it with the big charge wire I ran?

Something like this with an on demand switch along with the reverse switch to trip the relay.   This shows how to wire auxiliary reverse lights but can be modified for what ever you want.  

 

Looking like tapping into the tail light assembly might be easier...just remove assembly with 2 screws and all is accessible and a more dry location to make a cross connection. Looks like I can tap both positive and negative there with ease. 

 

Do you think the wires/curcut can handle running the auxiliary reverse lamp without doing a relay? Lamp was mounted on the canopy when I bought it. It doesn't appear to be a high power unit? Won't ever be run for very long. I'll put a kill switch inside the canopy so I can eliminate it from coming on as necessary. Like when I'm in the woods and backing up long distances on logging roads that dead end. 

 

Also, I've never understood why some vehicles put switches on the negative side and others use the positive side?? Maybe negative side is easier due to being able to only run one wire and switch just supplies ground when activated? 

Edited December 28, 20168 yr by joecool911

   It's not a question of how long you have them on but how much power you need.  How much power does the auxiliary lights demand?

It's a 10 amp circuit and lets say the 2 reverse blubs use about 20 watts each this would but a 3.3 amp load on the circuit.  this leaves 6.7 amps or 80 watts left to power any extra lighting.

 

   When I can I put the switch on the negative side of the load.  All of the control units do it this way.  Switching takes place after the load so there is no chance of a short circuit and blowing a fuse and there is very little to no spark when switching so the contacts in the switch last longer. 

Is grounding to the bed acceptable?

Yes but make sure to treat your exposed end of wire in the ring terminal with some sort of sealant to prevent rotting of the copper.

I ran hot and ground 8 gauge wires into the bed a few years ago for a bed mounted sprayer that now resides on a trailer. So I think I'm covered. Direct from battery terminals with a 25 amp fuse on the hot side. So now wiring with a relay will be a snap under the canopy. Still need to tap into hot and ground wires behind tail light for the backup camera. So only issue left is getting these wires from there to the licensce plate area for backup camera. Not sure if there are any holes in the tail light bucket area to fish wires, but I'll play that by ear when I'm there. 

 

Cant tell you how many times I've back up to trailers over the years blind and had to hop in and out of the cab to get lined up. Probably hundreds. This is going to be sweet. Plus having a light up high on the canopy that comes on when in reverse to be able to see the trailers while backing in dark!!!?

Update...got the backups camera installed. Works awesome! Got my trailer hooked up first shot.

 

Ended up doing all wiring behind the taillight. Stays dry there for the tapping in of wires. Ran a stub wire  into the bed area for running to the back up light on top of the canopy. Went really well!