Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
So coming up on a birthday for my truck in October heading to 16 years of ownership and currently standing with 315k just about to roll up on the odometer. I'm still running the factory steering box and power steering pump. To this day the steering box is still tight and leak free. I've adjusted the over center adjustment a few times but still the steering box is working just the way it did when I bought the truck brand new in October of 2002 and it had only 43 miles on the clock when I test drove it. My truck has seen a lot of rough roads and dirt roads, off-road 4WD travels so, there is no pavement princess here.
Now I have to admit the since I've never run an over sized tires on my truck has a lot of to do with this fact. Not to mention when I swapped out the 265's for the 235's gave me a huge edge of going further on the factory steering parts. Like to this day I've still got my OEM tie rod ends and never changed them yet. Still tight and no issues. Never done a lift kit or leveling kit that destroys the geometry of the front end. Currently running factory 2nd Gen wheels 16x7 chrome wheels with the 235's.
The only things that have been changed have been one track bar and one set of ball joints. That's all...
This is posted to give a point of reference to getting the most out of the Dodge Steering and it can be done.
Edited by Mopar1973Man