I've been around this block before, Which comes first, the puck or the fooler. Here are some diagrams to explain my theories. also, I'm thinking of trying to add a smoke switch, but I seem to be getting two stories 1. the signal voltage INCREASES as boost pressure increases. 2. the signal voltage DECREASES as boost pressure increases. It would also seem that having a Boost Fooler between the "Smoke Switch" and the ECM harness would eliminate the need for a resistor inline with the switch as the fooler should keep you boost signal from getting out of spec.thoughts, theories, b!#@#*$ or complaints welcomed...I have a thick skinA correction on the diagrams: Ignore anything about a smoke switch on Diagram 2, its not in there. I copied pasted and edited the notes from a later page.I would try to make my smoke switch connections on the boost fooler as 1. It has the easiest access to its wires. 2. It is the easiest and cheapest part to replace. [ATTACH]1259[/ATTACH]

ECM Wiring Theories.pdf

MAP increases voltage with boost. Correct thinking on putting the switch before the fooler, full voltage will hit the fooler, and it will regulate that to show the ECM the max acceptable boost... That may actually work well on a 3rd gen too where typically a smoke switch throws a code and limp mode.. I don't have a desire for one, but lots of folks do :banghead:With a smoke switch the correct order would beMAP-Puck-Switch-Fooler-OE PlugThe puck goes in first becuase you want it to do its calculations based on actual boost, not fooled boost.

That's pretty much what I was thinking. I've posted this question before, but without the graphics. The answer usually came back to plug the fooler into the MAPP sensor first, but there was never an explanation as to why. I'll cross my fingers and give it a try.As for the "smoke switch" I have no real illusions or desires to be "Rolling Coal". I'm Mostly interested in seeing if it adds any low end power, and/or quicker spool up from idle.Of course, it might be nice to puff a little black smoke now and then...Just enough to say "No Dude...It ain't a Hemmi."

That's pretty much what I was thinking. I've posted this question before, but without the graphics. The answer usually came back to plug the fooler into the MAPP sensor first, but there was never an explanation as to why. I'll cross my fingers and give it a try.

As for the "smoke switch" I have no real illusions or desires to be "Rolling Coal". I'm Mostly interested in seeing if it adds any low end power, and/or quicker spool up from idle.

Of course, it might be nice to puff a little black smoke now and then...Just enough to say "No Dude...It ain't a Hemmi."

No it won't... As you use a smoke switch it will fully retard the timing and make it doggy... Take notice to the timing curve at high boost... Top of the graph.

So low to no boost is much better for timing and MPG than high boost...

This can be heard with a smoke switch. Just ramp up the RPM's about 1,200 RPM's and then toggle the smoke switch on and off and listen to the injection rattle. normal MAP will have rattle and force high boost will loose rattle (retarded timing).

Ok, so increased boost/MAPP signal retards timing. I wasn't sure which way it goes. Can't really read the numbers, but it looks like an 8-10 psi reading would give the most aggressive timing curve. Am I reading that correctly? I have noticed that the truck really takes off at about 10 psi. Oh well still something to tinker with. Switched the Puck and Fooler this morning, before taking a hundred mile parts run. Didn't really notice much if any difference, but didn't throw any codes.

Oh well still something to tinker with. Switched the Puck and Fooler this morning, before taking a hundred mile parts run. Didn't really notice much if any difference, but didn't throw any codes.

You probably won't notice a difference, if you do it will only be when your boost levels are higher than the fooler allows the ECM to see, and then it just depends on if the puck has adjustability in those boost ranges.. But at least you know that everything is seeing what it should.

This can be heard with a smoke switch. Just ramp up the RPM's about 1,200 RPM's and then toggle the smoke switch on and off and listen to the injection rattle. normal MAP will have rattle and force high boost will loose rattle (retarded timing).

Verdict...Not worth the 10 min's to install. Itty bitty little puff of smoke when starting from a dead stop, barely visible, and definitely hinders acceleration. Most I could achieve was about 15 psi of boost. P.S. Yes I know, the "I told ya so's" are on the way. But hey, few of us would be on here if we weren't tinkerers.

Well that's how you learn from it... But yeap most say its not worth it... But a winning combo that with get the smoke to roll is a set of RV275 injectors and a Edge Comp on 5x5. I've got to roll into the throttle really light to keep my smoke down. But once I clear 5-10 PSI I can roll into the throttle hard and heavy. But now from a dead stop and row out the gears when I hit 3rd gear and drop the hammer you better not be near me... I'll change your paint job to flat black really quick!!