All of a sudden, my clutch pedal stopped snapping back.  I also had to go almost all the way to the floor to shift cleanly. 

 

I replaced the slave/master cylinder/reservior in a closed, pre-bled unit I bought from Rock Auto.  The clutch pedal still behaves mostly the same.  

 

What's next?

Most likely got to pull the whole thing out and bleed it again. This why I'll never buy a bleed system. I'de rather assemble it myself and know when I bleed the system it ready for use. Not assuming that because it already done that no air bubbles have worked there way back into the system. 

 

Bleed process is on the bottom of the article. 

 

Just pull the slave out keeping it connected to the master and let the slave cylinder piston extend all the out with the hose end pointed up. Once extended push piston in the slave cylinder up by hand till it bottoms out and repeat until it takes a lot of pressure to push the the piston in. Usaully 5 to 10 strokes does the trick. Make sure you keep the hose end pointed up while pushing piston in so the air gets pushed up through the master cylinder and into the reservoir where it can't enter the hydraulic cylinders again. That's how I always bleed clutch hydraulics with external slave cylinders because it's easier and quicker than using the bleeder screws.

 

After it's bled just install slave cylinder and top off hydraulic reservoir with brake fluid. This can and should be done with master cylinder installed on the vehicle.

Edited June 24, 20187 yr by 04Mach1

Be aware that might not work. There is a huge loop of tubing near the cowl that holds the air bubbles. Very difficult to impossible to get the bubbles to move past. This why hanging the entire system and bleeding my method removes this large high loop and allows all bubbles to flow upwards. This why it won't work. If you look you'll see the master is much lower that the highest part of the tube loop and again very difficult to get the air out of this high loop.

The stock system had that loop, but this replacement had shorter tubing from the reservior to the master cylinder.  It basically goes straight up from the master to the reservior with two slight bends. 

 

If I remove the slave and work it in and out a few times, that should be enough fluid movement to bleed?

44 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Be aware that might not work. There is a huge loop of tubing near the cowl that holds the air bubbles. Very difficult to impossible to get the bubbles to move past. This why hanging the entire system and bleeding my method removes this large high loop and allows all bubbles to flow upwards. This why it won't work. If you look you'll see the master is much lower that the highest part of the tube loop and again very difficult to get the air out of this high loop.

I forgot about that 2nd gen loop in the OEM line.

I'm going to guess that your hydraulics are not the problem here.  Especially if the second set is offering the same results.  Sounds like either the throwout bearing is shot and hardly there, or somethings wrong with the pressure plate assembly because there is no "spring" return in the hydraulics.  The clutch pedal returning is based on the pressure plate springs.

 

Can you peer in the slave cylinder hole and see if you can feel the fork movement or possibly anything else obvious...?