Noticed today that I have an almost screeching sound coming from the back of my truck, but the weird thing is it only does it consistently when I back up, only rarely when I go forward and it doesn't do it but for a split second. I notice though when reversing, it only does it under a load. Like if I am in the process of fully engaging the clutch, or when I'm in reverse and using the gas to go faster backwards, BUT if I hit the clutch while doing any of these it seems to stop, even if I'm still moving. I thought it was the pilot bearing but I jumped out to check and see if it was warm and it wasn't warm at all. I'm stumped here and its a horrific sound and I'd like to get to the bottom of it before I break something on the way to school one day. Anything helps as always, thanks!

Sounds like a u-joint, usually the rear one. It gets the most action and is more open to weather contamination. After a few miles of driving check them all for heat like you did the carrier bearing.

5 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

Sounds like a u-joint, usually the rear one. It gets the most action and is more open to weather contamination. After a few miles of driving check them all for heat like you did the carrier bearing.

Like ujoint in the driveshaft or on the axle.

Drive shaft at the rear diff.

1 hour ago, NIsaacs said:

Drive shaft at the rear diff.

Well of course when my dad gets here and I try and recreate it to show him and get his opinion it doesn't happen.... Could it be something in my drum brakes??

2 hours ago, TheGreatWhite said:

Well of course when my dad gets here and I try and recreate it to show him and get his opinion it doesn't happen.... Could it be something in my drum brakes??

I can definitely be something in the brakes.

I had the rear most u joint at the axle go bad on me about a year and a half ago the only way i found it was because at highway speed against the k rail i could hear this slight chirp/squeak/squeal sound. But any speed lower than that it would go away. A couple days later i noticed a clunk when i changed from drive to reverse or reverse to drive and for me that gave it away as a u joint.

 

If its something in your drums I would imagine it to be parking brake related if its only while backing up. Thats when theyre supposed to adjust.

3 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I can definitely be something in the brakes.

What could it be though? That is the question....

 

3 hours ago, 2000Ram2500 said:

I had the rear most u joint at the axle go bad on me about a year and a half ago the only way i found it was because at highway speed against the k rail i could hear this slight chirp/squeak/squeal sound. But any speed lower than that it would go away. A couple days later i noticed a clunk when i changed from drive to reverse or reverse to drive and for me that gave it away as a u joint.

 

If its something in your drums I would imagine it to be parking brake related if its only while backing up. Thats when theyre supposed to adjust.

I can get it to do it for a split second going forward, but going back seems to be more consistent. I did my drums last year and there was something wrong with my park brake in that I do not remember.... The lines themselves are brand new but something was wrong with the drivers side that I do not remember.

The best way to test a U-joint is to unbolt the drive shaft from the differential's companion flange and move it about on it's two axis.  It should move freely in all directions with no binding or play between the bearing cross journal and bearing cup.

 

Unbolting the flanges should only take a few minutes. This inspection will either confirm or rule out a problem with the U-joints.   Be sure to set the park brake, if it works, and chock the wheels.  

5 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

something was wrong

 

If i must be honest this pretty much explains any drum brake system. Theyre all held together with hopes and dreams i swear.

I've seen on my old ford one of the thin metal retainers for the cable that went inside there from one arm to the adjuster or something like that but the metal retainer had rusted a little and bent and they werent very even old brakes/hardware either. Maybe a couple years old.

4 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

The best way to test a U-joint is to unbolt the drive shaft from the differential's companion flange and move it about on it's two axis.  It should move freely in all directions with no binding or play between the bearing cross journal and bearing cup.

 

Unbolting the flanges should only take a few minutes. This inspection will either confirm or rule out a problem with the U-joints.   Be sure to set the park brake, if it works, and chock the wheels.  

Ill have to do that test at some point!

 

4 minutes ago, 2000Ram2500 said:

 

If i must be honest this pretty much explains any drum brake system. Theyre all held together with hopes and dreams i swear.

I've seen on my old ford one of the thin metal retainers for the cable that went inside there from one arm to the adjuster or something like that but the metal retainer had rusted a little and bent and they werent very even old brakes/hardware either. Maybe a couple years old.

Mines only a year old. Definitely in the playbook to buy that dana 70 disk conversion, I watched our buddy replace mine last year and honestly I couldn't replace them. Its overly complicated in my opinion. Might have to pop the drum off while cleaning my tires just to check.