Hey guys,

 

I just replaced my front suspension coils with a  2" level kit including shocks with Thuren Fabrication brand parts, and I also replaced the stock track-bar with a Synergy adjustable.  Everything was installed per manufacturer's recommendations.  My truck still makes a noise when I hit a bump and it's annoying.  I have 35x12.50R20LT tires, though I doubt thats what's making or causing the noise.  I'm not sure if its the ball joints or not.  But in you guys experience, what all components would contribute to a hard ride and a "knock" like sound when hitting a bump in the road.  I have the same issue on the rear, but those shocks haven't been changed as yet.  I only have the stock leaf spring and shocks on the rear.  I will change the shocks once I narrow down what the problem is on the front suspension.

Worn out ball joints will give you the 'knock' over a bump.  You can check them by putting the axle on jackstands and see if you have any play in the wheel/hub assembly.

20 minutes ago, Bullet said:

Worn out ball joints will give you the 'knock' over a bump.  You can check them by putting the axle on jackstands and see if you have any play in the wheel/hub assembly.

Would a failing wheel hub assembly have the same effect?

Bad shock bushing.

Bad ball joints.

Bad control arm bushing.

1 minute ago, Toughspot said:

Would a failing wheel hub assembly have the same effect?

 

That can be check with the axle jacked up.

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

Bad shock bushing.

Bad ball joints.

Bad control arm bushing.

 

Shocks are brand new

Control Arms are brand new

 

Ball joints never changed!!

Just now, Toughspot said:

Ball joints never changed!!

 

Oh fun. I got a suggestion if the ball joints don't press out easy. You can burn a hole through the center and then using a hacksaw blade to relief cut the ball joint cap. Then knock it out with a hammer. 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Oh fun. I got a suggestion if the ball joints don't press out easy. You can burn a hole through the center and then using a hacksaw blade to relief cut the ball joint cap. Then knock it out with a hammer. 

 

Oh this I'll totally taking this to the mechanic shop.  There's a certified machine shop here too. So if they can't get it out I'm sure they'll be taking them to the machine shop.

 

What brand would you guys recommend please?

I don't suggest Moog... No longer a quality product.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I don't suggest Moog... No longer a quality product.

Well I'll just empty my cart then......Hehehehe

 

Good thing I asked

Moog got bought out by Federal Mogul. Quality dropped out.

 

Quote

©2018 Federal-Mogul Motorparts LLC. All trademarks shown are owned by Federal-Mogul LLC, or one or more of its subsidiaries in one or more countries. All rights reserved.

 

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Moog got bought out by Federal Mogul. Quality dropped out.

 

 

What about AC Delco or Duralast?

Edited October 31, 20186 yr by Toughspot

Give them a shot. The problem you have is the leverage force of the 35-inch tires causing the wear on the ball joints. If I told you with 235's and 245's tire I can clear 200k miles you would understand. But no matter what larger tires and wheel will wipe out ball joints quickly because of the extra leverage forces. Basically like adding a cheater pipe to the ratchet that what the bigger wheels and tires do is lever against the ball joints.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Give them a shot. The problem you have is the leverage force of the 35-inch tires causing the wear on the ball joints. If I told you with 235's and 245's tire I can clear 200k miles you would understand. But no matter what larger tires and wheel will wipe out ball joints quickly because of the extra leverage forces. Basically like adding a cheater pipe to the ratchet that what the bigger wheels and tires do is lever against the ball joints.

Actually the tires are 20inch radius, but I get your point.  I'm still trying to find the right ones at an affordable price.

I understand the big tire look but there are several things that people miss. We've discussed the leverage factor. Most do a leveling kit or light lift kit. Both foul the geometry of the front axle. Then the final gear ratio is typically to low now. Bigger tires reduce gear ratio number. Like your 35" tires are making your 3.55:1 axle more like 3.21:1. Now adding stress to all driveline. Optimal is 3.55 for highway or 3.73 for mixed towing/highway. But you got to calculate the tire size too.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I understand the big tire look but there are several things that people miss. We've discussed the leverage factor. Most do a leveling kit or light lift kit. Both foul the geometry of the front axle. Then the final gear ratio is typically to low now. Bigger tires reduce gear ratio number. Like your 35" tires are making your 3.55:1 axle more like 3.21:1. Now adding stress to all driveline. Optimal is 3.55 for highway or 3.73 for mixed towing/highway. But you got to calculate the tire size too.

Aaaahhhhh okay.  Well can't change my tires, so I'll just keep changing ball joints.

Yeah, I can fill your head with lots of info. 

 

There is a downside to my setup. Everything in the front end last so dang long it a nasty fight to remove the parts. Like I just done wheel joints for the first time in 16 years and 358k miles. One side took me all day beating on the u-joint to get it out. The other side took most of the day to just get the shaft out then had to drive to town and have a friend at the shop put it in a 100-ton press to get the joint out. So, it does suck to have things last longer. 

Edited October 31, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

Yeah, I can fill your head with lots of info. 

 

There is a downside to my setup. Everything in the front end last so dang long it a nasty fight to remove the parts. Like I just done wheel joints for the first time in 16 years. One side took me all day beating on the u-joint to get it out. The other side took most of the day to just get the shaft out then had to drive to town and have a friend at the shop put it in a 100-ton press to get the joint out. So, it does suck to have things last longer. 

Damn..... Well I could imagine the labor cost to change these alone.

 

Make sure you tell that shop to use lots and lots anti-seize on everything including bolts! 

 

The one unit bearing is my fault I replaced one that failed in Boise, ID and then never thought about it. No anti-seize used and it rusted to the knuckle in less than 1 year. I tried using the air hammer tool to push out the bear but no dice. I had to beat that bearing for over 4 hours with a 6 pound hammer to get it out of the knuckle. Not fun... So like I said make sure to use lots and lots of anti-seize on all parts. Make sure to use sandpaper or hone stone to clean all holes up and remove rust. Makes assemble much better and the future change a breeze!

2 minutes ago, Toughspot said:

Damn..... Well I could imagine the labor cost to change these alone.

 

Much more affordable and fulfilling to do it all yourself if you can.  You got plenty of support from here.

 

If I would have paid labor to do everything I've done to my truck I could have bought another whole truck. 

2 minutes ago, Bullet said:

If I would have paid labor to do everything I've done to my truck I could have bought another whole truck. 

 

Best part you know its done right!

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Best part you know its done right!

Exactly!