..I will fix the fuel leak in the o-ring of the tank. I power washed it but I couldn't even see what I was doing because it's dark so tomorrow I will get you all the end result. But here are some before pics. If anyone has some pic requests while I am under there let me know.. Probably have the bed off all day tomorrow.

Ummm... You need a tailpipe... That passenger side tire is awful black in color and so is the axle. Oh yeah you fuel tank is rather dirty looking...

Maybe, but I didn't leave all the things I used to take the bed off sitting around in the picture. It's pretty clean now but I can't see the damn thing. No lights around where it was and I was just spraying myself more than the truck. So tomorrow I will see the damage. The tank only leaks when it is over 3/4 and only when it is running. If those 2 factors are not met, it won't leak. Figure I will change all the rings and check everything over and see what gives.

--- Update to the previous post...

Now that I can see, got it all cleaned up.

http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1644.JPG

Got the pickup and all that stuff out of the tank. The gasket was in that spot when I pulled it out...no wonder it leaks. Also explains why it just pukes all the fuel out around the tank when I put in too much, rather than coming out the filler neck.

http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1646.JPG

All the connections.

http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1645.JPG

Fuel gauge sending unit.

http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1647.JPG

Filter on the bottom of the pickup.

http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1650.JPG

Hey ISX... The the pic of the gasket hanging on the sender I notice there is a hell of a rub mark where the screws hold the lower half of the sender. Is that loose by chance? You might consider adjusting a putting a bit of JB weld along the lip edge of the metal to help it out. It might not be a bad idea to give it a Kylon tuneup too on the frame make it last longer... (Suggestion)

Hey, buddy, I think somebody stole the bed offen yer truck! LOL!! Glad you're making progress.Russ

That's not supposed to be loose? It slides up and down so much I thought it was supposed to be like that . By the looks of it I think you are supposed to get it close to the bottom of the tank and tighten it so it can suck up every drop? I have never messed with one so have no clue how it is supposed to go. Got a new seal coming though, nobody had anything but the dealership, $10.

Not that I remember... I heard of this being a problem on the 12V of the sender halves floating up and down... I know the design was changed on the 24V series to a spring load halves so the bottom half was pressed against the bottom of the tank...

Got the seal, now I know the other seal definitely wasn't where it was supposed to be because the new one has to be pushed pretty hard and then it pops into where it is supposed to be in the tank. When I took it out the thing pulled right out with no resistance since there was no seal.See Mike, one person job...

See Mike, one person job...

Rub it in... well I'm glad that was a easy fix... Some days I wish I had a backhoe or some sort of tractor for some of these things... Oh well I can't have everything...

While I had the bed off I did some rerouting and rewiring to make the batteries in the back crank the truck over much better than they used to. Last time I used the batteries back there, it would hardly crank over. So originally I had 2 up front (so it would actually crank) and just left the 2 in back hooked up. I stared at it a while and figured out a way to get all the current to the starter. I tested my theory by using only one battery in the bed and hooked 2 grounds to the frame, 1 ground from the engine to the frame, and 3 positives connected to the big red cable going to the starter. It started over better than before, but still not what I wanted. So I hooked a second ground from another spot on the engine to the frame. Nothing changed. I knew it started better than that if the battery was up front so I kept going. I ended up glancing at the starter and saw the terminal that goes to it and how small it is. I thought it looked so pathetic so I ended up taking one positive out of the connection to the stock lead, and ran it straight to the starter bolt, right on top of the stock cable. That made a world of a difference. I now have it all completed with all 4 batteries in the back and it starts as good if not better than the truck does stock with 2 batteries up front. I also threw the washer fluid reservoir in the back too. I want to get everything out of the engine bay I possibly can so I can work on it easier. That was pretty easy, just ran a clear hose inside the frame and it doesn't know the difference. I thought it might not pump through that much line but that thing is just too damn powerful So now I got all the room in the world, especially with that PITA washer reservoir out of my way. Seemed that thing was in the most obtrusive spot ever. I just gotta wash where it all was, thought it was some surface rust but it seems to rub off to show silver paint so not sure where I got that kinda dust. I just realized I said overflow tank in the video :banghead: Close enough

i like the cleared out engine bay. i believe those optima batteries can be mounted in any position, and give you more room in your box for gear. does anyone know where the factory motor/frame ground is?good vids, but your mic is horrible(probably cause you are behind the cam)

I was standing on the drivers side and looking at it and it just looks so empty lol. Had to take a pic of it. Not sure what you mean by crappy mic, I can hear everything perfect so turn your speakers up lol.--- Update to the previous post...Well, I saw more unneeded crap, and the overflow tank was too tempting. I went all last year without a fan and never noticed it gone so why not rip it and the shroud off too lol. I just went for a test run driving it really hard and just as I figured, it didn't notice a thing. The a/c gets hot at stop signs and I think it is bad if you have the a/c on and no flow through the condenser, but I am a few cans short of enough freon so I haven't used it all summer. See anything else I can get out of the engine bay?

Why not slide the BHAF forward as long as you've made all that room?

Why not slide the BHAF forward as long as you've made all that room?

I don't think that tube bends at all. Preformed or something. I'm pretty much set on that side, the drivers side is the one I wish had less stuff. Would work good if I could move all the braking stuff somewhere else, then I could get to the whole fuel system reallllly easily, right now I always have to reach around it. I took the engine out just so I could heli coil the AFC housing because I couldnt drill and tap it straight enough with the brake stuff in the way. Ok it was partially just to see the engine out of the truck too

Getting a little carried away now. Got rid of all the wires for a lot of stuff. Rerouted them so they wouldn't be in the way. You can see I moved the grid relays next to the fuse panel and ran the wiring along the cowl. So heres a before and after.