So I have a FASS titanium series waiting at the house for me to get home and do the install. What’s the consensus on suction? Draw straw or sump?

Fleece Sure Flo Performance Sending Unit. This is the ticket. Spendy, but looks like a great set up. Plus eliminating some very old parts

Do not draw from the sender bad idea being the fuel is much hotter from the return hot fuel from the rear of the head which can be 190°F. Best to have a draw straw in the main fuel tank outside the sender basket. This will provide much cooler fuel. Like my hottest in the summer is 120°F fuel temps on a 100°F outside temperature day.

 

The cooler you can keep your fuel temperature you'll find out you don't have to change filters very often. Like my average filter change is 60,000 to 80,000 because I'm not creating asphaltenes which occurs somewhere between 140°F to 150°F fuel temperature which will require filter changes every 15,000 miles because the asphaltene will plug up the filters with a black material from over heating the fuel.

8 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Do not draw from the sender bad idea being the fuel is much hotter from the return hot fuel from the rear of the head which can be 190°F. Best to have a draw straw in the main fuel tank outside the sender basket. This will provide much cooler fuel. Like my hottest in the summer is 120°F fuel temps on a 100°F outside temperature day.

 

The cooler you can keep your fuel temperature you'll find out you don't have to change filters very often. Like my average filter change is 60,000 to 80,000 because I'm not creating asphaltenes which occurs somewhere between 140°F to 150°F fuel temperature which will require filter changes every 15,000 miles because the asphaltene will plug up the filters with a black material from over heating the fuel.

That’s good to know. Thank you. I’ll plumb the return in elsewhere

No. Plumb the return to the sender so the heat remains in a confined space and put a draw straw elsewhere so you keep a larger pool of cooler fuel. Also don't do a sump or bottom draw. Replacing fuel tanks are very expensive.

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

No. Plumb the return to the sender so the heat remains in a confined space and put a draw straw elsewhere so you keep a larger pool of cooler fuel. Also don't do a sump or bottom draw. Replacing fuel tanks are very expensive.

This is almost an identical OEM sending unit replacement. Something that has been perfectly functional for the previous 150000 miles. The whole idea of buying it was to have a good reliable suction without drilling additional holes in the tank. 

Might be true. Ill give you this hook up a Qaudzilla to check the fuel temperature. This does have a impact on life span of the VP44 / PSG module.

 

Yeah it sucks but i remember the whole move tosuction line 1/2 inch was put in sender basket. Sad part those people fought with super short filter changes and VP44 with electronic issues (error codes) from hot fuel. This is why I bucked the system to find better ways the give the best longevity. DrawStraws now are built really good and rare to leak. I've installed several which I've got a tweak to prevent 1/4 tank slosh issues.

Thanks. I appreciate the help. I’m away from home at work now. I’ll take a look when I get home. Hopefully I can 90deg off the return internally to keep it away from suction 

5 hours ago, kbf98520 said:

Hopefully I can 90deg off the return internally to keep it away from suction 

 

There is another option without modifying your new fuel basket plumbing.  On my truck with an OEM fuel sender basket (no pump), I installed the basket and hooked up the fuel lines in an OEM fashion.  Along the frame I cut the return fuel line and installed a three-way valve and added a fuel line and a tee to the fuel tank filler neck.

 

With the newly added three-way valve in one position, fuel returns to the basket - a good option during winter months when warm fuel is desirable.  With the valve in the other position, fuel returns to the fuel tank via the tank filler neck.  This is a good option during the hot summer when cooler fuel is desirable. 

 

Just be aware that whichever method you use, more fuel will flow through the one-way check valve in the bottom of the fuel basket when the fuel is returned outside of the basket.  This will result in running out of fuel sooner as the fuel tank nears empty. 

 

When fuel is returned directly to the basket (about 70% of the volume drawn from the basket), then the fuel level can be drawn down a little farther before running out of fuel. 

 

Here is the filler neck T.

 

- John

 

Something else you may be interested in...,

 

After dropping my fuel tank twice over the last 20 years, I decided to make an access door through the truck bed. One of the best mods I ever did. The actual time it takes to do the mod is about the same as dropping the fuel tank, replacing the basket, and re-installing the fuel tank.

With the modification completed, I can now remove the fuel basket in about 10 minutes. Easy access to electrical and fuel connections, easy to remove the large threaded nut, easy to remove and install the fuel basket. Also, the job can be done regardless of the level of fuel in the tank.

 

- John