First time posting on this site, i have to say this site is amazing always have found stuff that has helped me. Well im hoping someone could explain whats houng on with my truck. First and foremost the truck is a 1999 2wd 5 speed 3500 2nd gen cummins and it has a cold air intake and a intake horn, edge ez, 50hp injectors, new H. O vp44. The truck has 307k miles and runs amazing and has no issues. But when im driving on the highway at a steady speed around 80mph the sound in the engine bay will change every 15-20 seconds it is most deffinetly the sound of combustion changing and or the injection timing changing. The truck will have the typical knocky 24v clatter that sounds kind of like a machine gun but every 15-20 seconds that knocky sound will totally disappear and the engine sounds so smooth at this point, after about 5 second, sometimes a little longer it goes back to the klattery machine gun sound for another 15-20 seconds and then back to the smooth sound. It is most deffinetly the sound of combustion and not like valves or anything like that im 100% sure of that. Its like the ignition timing is changing and changes the engine sound. Exhaust note doesnt change its all under hood noise . Has anyone ever seen this or have a clue at how and why it does this? I wish i had a way to view the timing commands in real time and see if their is a correlation in timing changing and the sound changing. It would be nice to find a way to make it have that smooth quiet tone all the time while on the high way it would deffinetly keep some decibels off  

15 hours ago, daav544 said:

What rod do you use?

I have a pack of flux coated bronze rods, 56% copper. 

Never heard of a rod with copper in it like that, i always used the 56% silver **** expensive af though. And @Mopar1973Man so i threw in my 150hp injectors yesterday and boy does this thing run good like a raped ape. Idles at 799-800 rpm and load at idle is 7% anyway when i had the throttle linkage off i notice my pump already has a pump tap cover. Its a bd pump that my buddy who had the truck before me put on. They must put them on from factory theres a small set screw in it. I just need the long pointed set screw, any idea where i could get one? 

Contact BD and see if they will send a screw and nut.

@Mopar1973Man i ended up making one for it found the thread size of  the set screw and got an allen head cap screw threw it in a drill and spun it up and grinded a perfect point on it with a flap disk, worked mint. Now im trying to see if i can buy a cheaper fuel pressure sensor than quadzillas. Im trying to find out the pin orientation so i can find one with the same specs, theres so many with the same plug type but not sure on pin orientation

ISSPro might work too you would have to ask Quadzilla if the impedance will be correct so the pressure display is correct. This is the only reason I don't like screwing around because the wrong sender will produce wrong values and accuracy will be lost.

I found out the part number for the pressure sensor for the quad fuel sensor its a gm sensor lol. Any way i got the 150s in this thing and it hauls the mail and then some but i wana start getting into the custom tuning side im already sick of how much it will smoke and now it likes to buck when i take off from second i use to be able to let the clutch out no gas and take off now i have to give it some pedal so it wont buck. Anyway this is what i did on the custom tuning ill most likely stay on level 0 most of the time but i wanted to see if you think i should change anything to make driveability better with the 150s

Sadly, that tune is not going to work very well at all. Too retarded in timing all the way. Wire tap set up wrong won't work correctly. Then fueling table is set up incorrectly. 

 

NOTE: Even the stock ECM tune can hit 30 degrees of timing its just a matter of WHEN.

NOTE: Min / Max TPS should never be the same being wire tap will only work at 75%. <75% and >75% wire tap is disabled.

NOTE: 100% fuel table entry is just say mirror stock. Any value above 100% is adding fuel. Any value below 100% is cutting fuel.

NOTE: Like usual most try to bring the wire tap in too early and not have a supporting fuel table to aid in power. (Cut rate fuel table)

 

Just for point of reference...

 

66 MPH for Beast is 2,000 RPM's with my 7x0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar I'm at 24* to 26* of cruise timing and EGT's are below 600*F. Your current cruise timing is 15.9 degrees at 2,000 RPM only if engine load is <20%.

 

Edited April 18, 2024Apr 18 by Mopar1973Man

The 75% 75% was supposed to be at 25% 75%, but any way i got some recommendations from some people on a 1badvp44s form on facebook and this is the tune i loaded its not half bad, deffinetly better than the default tunes for the 150s. Still bucks slightly but alot better my valet mode is 80% and it seems to like that aswell defffinetly room for improvement though. I wana get something dialed in thats tame down low, not a ton of smoke up top, and just all around daily/ pull my 4k pound camper

Trick.

 

Figure a point like your 15 PSI of your wire tap. Now ramp up the fuel map from 100% to 150% from 15 to 30+ PSI of the fuel table. Now there should be a stock 100% realm from say 5 PSI to that 15 PSI of the table. This allows for a wide range of stock power cruise state that not adding fuel more or less running on the injectors only. This keep efficiency up. Now when you dig in the throttle and boost builds past 15 PSI CanBus is ramping up at the same time as the wiretap stack that 180 HP on and could possibly spin a tire. My truck at 45 MPH 4th gear climbing 7% grade Beast has be known to roll a bit of blue smoke off the tires. Does it work? Heck yeah it does! I've scared a few friend haulin' up that canyon. 

Another trick turn off the Quadzilla complete and run level 0 for a few days and make note of the timing at different RPMs. Now, I can tell you stock is 20 to 21 degrees of timing at 2,000 RPM. The whole idea is to provide that extra timing to make it more efficient not to retard the timing to make it even worse. This is why I'm giving clues on how to figure out timing. 

 

Optimal timing engine oil temperature should be at least 30*F cooler than coolant. 

Optimal timing will have the LOWEST engine for at speed.

Optimal timing will have the LOWEST EGT's for at speed.

 

The best way to learn timing and its curves is to watch stock values for a few weeks and then build a tune that closely follows stock and now starts advancing equally up the RPM. If you are stepping by +3, +4, or +5 degrees per band that way to have an even curve following RPM's. 

Lol is this like a dont kiss dont tell kinda thing? I see you giving me a bunch of tips which i appreciate a million but to get the real awnsers its a pay to play kinda deal huh? Lol i would to if i had a brain like yours, alot of money to be made in a market like this. Do you still make tunes for the adrenaline? I see alot of people going to 1badvp44 for their tunes, maybe ill bite the bullet and get one done. Ill deffinetly try what you said though and watch the stock timing for a bit and go from there and see what i come up with

When I've created tunes that allow me to cross the entire state of Washington from Seatlle to the Idaho border for only 1/4 tank of fuel I'd say I've got the efficiency part down to a science. The difference is I build for efficiency 1BadVp44 builds for racing. Rules are different for both.

Ahh i see,  well you still get the tires to smoke in 4th so id say your tunes pretty efficient on the fun side of things too lol. How much would one run me if i had you make me one up, thats if your still doing them no idea if you still do or not?

Also what's the set up on your truck? Mines stock turbo with boost elbow, dap 7x0.010 sac injectors, volant intake, s&b intake horn. Stock down pipe to 4in under the cab for about a foot then to 5in dump infront of rear wheels

7 hours ago, daav544 said:

Ahh i see,  well you still get the tires to smoke in 4th so id say your tunes pretty efficient on the fun side of things too lol. How much would one run me if i had you make me one up, thats if your still doing them no idea if you still do or not?

Also what's the set up on your truck? Mines stock turbo with boost elbow, dap 7x0.010 sac injectors, volant intake, s&b intake horn. Stock down pipe to 4in under the cab for about a foot then to 5in dump infront of rear wheels

 

100 dollars a tune. I will update as many times as needed in 30 days. 

 

There is several other factors needs to be looked at. Like final ratio needs to be 3.55 to 3.73 after tires. Like Beast I went from 265/75 R16 to 245/75 R16 which is one inch smaller but changes to a final ratio of 3.69:1 after tires.

 

Optimal IAT is 80 to 140°F

Optimal thermostat 200°F (experimental)

Optimal fuel temp <140°F

Optimal cetane <45 cetane

My tires are bald as a babys *** 215/85-16s that im guna be changing soon for almost new 235/85-16s and my rear gear is 4.10. today while driving at 80mph  i was watching my coolant and oil temp and coolant stayed around 200-205 and oil was like 175-178 timing would fluctuate from **** 17-20ish but seemed to be around 18ish most the time. And as far as cetane goes how do you figure that out?

Also what is the reason the final ratio needs to be 3.55 to 3.73 after tires?  I also noticed on the adrenaline when it asks you your tire size the values it allows you to type in are like 95in 120in? Are they going by the circumference of the tire? But most deffinetly will be talking about getting a tune with you in the next week or two

7 hours ago, daav544 said:

I also noticed on the adrenaline when it asks you your tire size the values it allows you to type in are like 95in 120in? Are they going by the circumference of the tire?

 

I believe you are correct.  A 245/75 R16 tire is about 30.5" inches in diameter (30.5 x 3.14 equal 95.77 inches in circumference).

 

7 hours ago, daav544 said:

Also what is the reason the final ratio needs to be 3.55 to 3.73 after tires? 

 

This is more of a perception or a "feels like" ratio comparison.  I have never seen or heard of a good explanation regarding this comparison, but I think it has validity.  Here is what it means to me.  I am apologizing ahead of time if it gets too confusing.

 

A lot of people believe that the 3.73:1 axle (beginning in the 3rd generation trucks) was the best axle ratio for towing performance when equipped with the stock 265/70 R17 tires and wheels.  I tend to agree, it fits right in the middle of a 3.54:1 and a 4.10:1. 

 

*  The 265/70 R17 tire is 31.6" diameter (3rd generation)

*  The 265/75 R16 tire is 31.6" diameter (2nd generation stock tire installed on later 2nd generation trucks)

*  The 245/75 R16 tire is 30.5" diameter (2nd generation specified on driver side door jamb)

 

From this point on, the only way to fairly demonstrate how tire size affects different axle ratio comparisons is to find a gear that is common in all transmissions for the 2nd generation trucks and the early 3rd generation trucks.  This common gear is a direct gear in which the engine rpm (transmission input shaft) and the transmission output shaft rpm are equal.  The direct gear is different in different transmissions as shown below:

 

*  NV4500  - 4th is direct gear

*  NV5600 -  5th is direct gear

*  47RH, 47RE, 48RE - 3rd with converter locked is direct gear

 

Note that when comparing with automatic transmissions, the converter must always be locked. 

 

From this point forward it will be assumed that all axle ratio comparisons or tire size ratio comparisons or transmission comparisons will be in direct gear without mentioning the word "direct gear".

 

So, back to the tire size and axle ratio comparisons.

 

The standard to shoot for is the 265/70 R17 tire (31.6" dia) with a 3.73 axle on a 3rd generation truck.

 

It turns out that the 265/75 R16 tire on the second generation truck is also 31.6" dia, but with a 3.54 axle.  So, knowing that the tire diameter is the same for both trucks, the 3.73 axle will put more engine torque to the ground than the 3.54 axle.

 

So, what if we put a 245/75 R16 tire (30.5" dia) on the 2nd generation truck?  The smaller diameter will make the 3.54 axle "feel like" it is performing like a 3.69 axle - just like @Mopar1973Mansays.

 

That's all folks.

 

- John

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Im still not fully understanding this, does the ratio have to be one of those specified for moparman to be able to test the tune on his truck or something and can confirm it will act similarly on my truck? Im just not fully getting the reasoning behind it, cus anyone with any gear ratio imaginable could make their own tune for their trucks and it wouldnt matter right? This is for someone making someone a tune to be able to say yes this will work with these gear ratios and act how I thin it will because the final ratios are similar?

Also @Mopar1973Man i read one of your write ups on the adrenaline and noticed this about levels 0-3 and you say they are always the same and will never change. So if i make a tune outside of the default tunes nothing i do at all will make 0-3 feel any different? (Aside from valet%) I have a tune labeled daily and from what im reading levels 0-3 will not change even if i completely changed the tune parameters like the can bus percentages and timing? Or am i reading that wrong 

Let me work on that later possibly while doing chemo. I'll update info.

My best to explain levels...

 

Level 0 - Quadzilla disabled. Stock ECM in full control. No fuel table or timing table is used of the Quadzilla. Only live data from the CANBus.

 

Level 1 - Valet Mode. This allows us to lock the fuel limit to a single value say I use 10% which the truck will drive but a max speed of 20 MPH. This allows the truck to move for a shop tech but not be driven very fast at all. The fuel table is disabled and only this signal number fuel amount is used.

 

Level 2 - Stock Fuel. This level will allow for all your timing values and then fuel is capped at 100% fuel. No additional fuel will be given above stock 100% regardless of the fuel table setup.

 

Level 3 - Full CANBus fuel. Now your entire CANBus fuel table will be used all the way to 150% fueling. Full timing table is used.

 

Levels 4 to 11 - These are all the wiretap levels. Like me, I only use 7 levels total which makes the 4 levels for wiretap split out to 25% per level. Now my tune the 1200us of pulse so if like today I've got level 5 set and that means I only get 600us pulse of wiretap. More levels the more it splits out the wiretap.