Hi there -

Several different issues just started, and I'm not sure how to begin addressing these. Hoping that folks with a good understanding of the 24V can help sift through the symptoms and see to the core of the problems. Looking for help organizing and figuring out if there is an underlying root problem that's causing the other issues.

Vehicle:

2001 Ram 2500, 5.9L High Output Cummins, 4x4, 292K miles. I only have about 3k miles on it myself since I bought it. Don't have a great idea of what was done to it before. As far as I can tell, the engine and powertrain are in a stock configuration.

History:

Until January of this year, it was always quick to start with minimal cranking. After sitting for about a month, it took an unusually long time (let's say about 8 seconds) to crank and start. I used it for several days after that, and had no more issues - it just happened the first time after sitting.

The long starting time has happened intermittently since then, but not very frequently. Maybe just one or two times. The truck gets used for several days, and then parked for about a month.

The event:

The truck was straight piped, but I just installed a generic straight thru muffler (following the recommendation in this thread ). Took the truck out for a test drive and it is a lot quieter, although it was making a whistling noise when letting of the accelerator.

During that drive, on the freeway, the dash chimed and the 'CHECK GAGES' light came on. I glanced at the dashboard and noticed that the voltage gage was bottomed out. Didn't notice anything else, but wasn't looking that closely. There was no noticeable effect on the truck - it continued driving the same, the radio stayed on, etc. I assumed the sensor had failed or come loose from its connection. I turned around a few minutes later and accelerated moderately hard as I came back onto the highway. A moment later, the dash chimed again and I saw the temp gauge was reading high (out of the normal range but not yet to the redline), and climbing. I tried to take it easy on the way home and not build up any unnecessary heat. There were several minutes spent at low speed or idling at traffic lights, and in total it took 10 - 15 minutes to get home after the chime. The needle was very close to the red line, by the time I turned the truck off.

There was coolant splattered around the engine bay and the underbody of the truck, even into the right side wheelwells. I left the hood open to let the engine bay cool down, and left it alone until after work the next day.

Found a trail of coolant on the front side of the lower right corner of the block, right where the water pump mounts, but have not been able to find where its coming from. When I opened the radiator cap, the leak became active as a small trickle. Wasn't able to see the source, because of grime buildup.

I started the truck (it fired normally), and it ran for perhaps 10 seconds, and then quit. Tried to start it again, but it would crank but not fire. The starter sounded sluggish and was getting weaker and weaker.

Sprayed the area around the leak with engine cleaner and rinsed with water. Put a battery charger on the truck and left it overnight.

Current condition & symptoms:

The radiator is almost empty (it must have continued to leak overnight), almost to the bottom of the radiator. The coolant reservoir is almost full. I'll add coolant and see if I can trace the source of the leak.

The initial suspicion was that the alternator and/or water pump had failed, and the serpentine belt was stuck or slipping. According to the service manual, there's a square drive in the belt tension arm; I used a breaker bar to release the tension in the belt. The alternator pulley could be turned by hand. The water pump pulley could be turned by hand, but it seems like there's a clutch mechanism in it. The pulley wheel itself rotated freely around the hub of the pulley. I was able to rotate the hub by hand as well, although it had a lot more resistance.

The engine still will not start, although it cranks just fine. The starter sounds normal, after charging the batteries.

The voltage gauge works and indicates a voltage when the key is on.

Following the service manual instructions for bleeding air/priming, I loosened the low-pressure supply banjo bolt on the fuel pump, and bumped the starter to engage the lift pump. Fuel poured out from the banjo bolt.

Used an OBDII tool and found code P1693. Used the key on/off procedure to read codes from the odometer screen:

P PCU

P 1682

P 1693

P ECU

P 0217

P 1693

Where I'm stuck / Analysis:

The error codes seem to just relate to the low voltage and over temp condition. It does not seem like these would have any bearing on the no-start issue.

Some google searching would suggest that I should check for fuel pressure at the injector lines next. From reading various forums it sounds like a no-start condition can come from a failing injector pump, but that usually has its own set of trouble codes - which this truck does not have.

The engine ran just fine up until it didn't. There was no noticeable loss of power or responsiveness, and it idled just fine for several minutes at stoplights until I turned it off with the key. This would suggest the fuel / air / compression conditions were all being satisfied. It has never just died on its own, until the other day, when it only ran for like 10 seconds.

Was wondering if the overheating engine could cause fuel delivery problems, like on a carbureted boat motor - but I don't think these motors and fuel systems can work that way?

Do any of you see a way that these issues are related? What should I be doing to isolate/diagnose from this point?

Or is this all just a giant set of coincidences, and each issue should be individually chased for a fix?

Thanks in advance!

First, I would like to commend you on an excellent first post. Lot of relevant detail there.

53 minutes ago, airplanesleddog said:

After sitting for about a month, it took an unusually long time (let's say about 8 seconds) to crank and start.

53 minutes ago, airplanesleddog said:

he long starting time has happened intermittently since then, but not very frequently. Maybe just one or two times. The truck gets used for several days, and then parked for about a month.

This is not a serious issue. Likely there is a small leak in the low pressure part of the fuel system. Fuel may not leak out, but air can leak in when the truck isn't used for several days or weeks at a time. It takes a while for the lift pump to prime the system, consequently a delayed start. This issue does need attention, but it is not a priority at this time.

1 hour ago, airplanesleddog said:

During that drive, on the freeway, the dash chimed and the 'CHECK GAGES' light came on. I glanced at the dashboard and noticed that the voltage gage was bottomed out.

When you say "bottomed out", was the voltage gauge pegged to the low side or the high side?

Since you had a major loss of coolant, the temperature gauge was probably reading correctly. The coolant spraying all over the right side of the engine may be causing an electrical problem.

I would first concentrate on getting the coolant leak repaired. If you fill the radiator and cannot detect a coolant leak, then it is best to test with a radiator pressure tester. Many auto parts stores have a loaner tool, or a rental tool program that may work for you.

Does your truck have a fuel pressure gauge for the lift pump?

Is the lift pump located in the factory engine mount location?

You should be able to hear the lift pump run under the conditions listed below:

• Key in the "On" position - lift pump runs for 1/4 second

• Turn key into the "Start" position just briefly ( a bump) and then let go - lift pump should run for approximately 20 seconds.

• John

51 minutes ago, Tractorman said:

This is not a serious issue. Likely there is a small leak in the low pressure part of the fuel system. Fuel may not leak out, but air can leak in when the truck isn't used for several days or weeks at a time. It takes a while for the lift pump to prime the system, consequently a delayed start. This issue does need attention, but it is not a priority at this time.

Thank you for the crosscheck - I didn't think it was particularly cause for concern or related to the real issues here, but wasn't sure.

To your questions:

The voltage gauge was pegged to the low side.

There is not a fuel pressure gauge that I'm aware of, and the lift pump appears to be stock. (no Airdog/FASS units installed, if that's what you're asking)

I do hear a noise after bumping the starter, although I can't tell for certain if it's the pump. It sounds kinda rough, kind of raspy. It sounds like an electric shaver if you press on the combs a little bit.

Thanks for the suggestion for the radiator pressure tester, and the suggestion to focus on the coolant leak!

P1682 - Charging System Voltage Too Low

P0217 - Decreased Engine Performance Due To Engine Overheating Condition

The two codes above match your symptoms. The P1693 is of no concern as it is considered as a companion code - meaning that a related code is set in another computer module (ECM, PCM).

32 minutes ago, airplanesleddog said:

I do hear a noise after bumping the starter, although I can't tell for certain if it's the pump. It sounds kinda rough, kind of raspy.

Sounds like you have an OEM style engine mounted lift pump (left side of engine). That particular lift pump location is noisy and raspy sounding. Not the best design as the lift pump has to "lift" fuel from the fuel tank as opposed to frame-mounted lift pumps or in-tank mounted lift pumps that push fuel through the system.

After the coolant leak is repaired, then you can check if fuel is present at the VP44 by doing the bump start test.

Do you have a means of checking for and clearing DTC's?

• John

15 hours ago, Tractorman said:

Do you have a means of checking for and clearing DTC's?

Yes... I think. I have an OBDLinkMX+ adapter, the OBDLink app, and the Torque app. The OBDLink app has supplemental data packs available, but only go back as far as 2006 for Dodge.

Torque reports "No fault codes stored in ECU"

OBDLink reports "No pending, stored, or permanent DTCs", but also shows a 'Freeze Frame DTC' for P1693. It appears to have saved the parameters at the first occurence of that code, and they correspond to normal highway driving. If I had to guess, this would be when the voltage gauge pegged on the low side.

That said, these codes continue to be shown on key on/off/on/off/on:

P PCU

P 1682

P 1693

P ECU

P 0217

P 1693

15 hours ago, Tractorman said:

After the coolant leak is repaired, then you can check if fuel is present at the VP44 by doing the bump start test.

I did try loosening the low pressure banjo bolt at the fuel pump and bumped the starter - did get a stream of fuel coming out.

I would pull the water pump and inspect it and the rubber seal since it there no coolant in it. The gasket is like $3, new pump $60 (orielly's) if there is any inclination that the bearing has play or is starting to seize. You can have you alternator checked as well while your in there with the belt off, that would eliminate a charging issue, and its free. I agree with @Tractorman a coolant pressure test is definitely needed, check your engine oil and level just in case you blew a head gasket. After that its on to wiring, fuses, etc.

Your app is showing no codes and the key on/off is showing the 4 codes?

I, or as anyone else would say, do not trust the factory pump and don't chance it. Get a Fass system as soon as you can. At a minimum, since you just got it, change the fuel filter(s). Rule of thumb for me on any used vehicle is all the oils changed, and ALL new filters.

My 🪙🪙

18 minutes ago, Stanley said:

I would pull the water pump and inspect it and the rubber seal since it there no coolant in it. The gasket is like $3, new pump $60 (orielly's) if there is any inclination that the bearing has play or is starting to seize.

Very timely advice - I did some more reading and realized I had mistook the A/C compressor for the water pump. The water pump pulley has a fair bit of play in it. Added water to the radiator and it swiftly resumed leaking, it appears to be from the water pump or its footprint.

Supporting that assumption - the radiator doesn't drain completely. There's at least an inch or two of water still at the bottom, and that looks like it corresponds to the height of the water pump.

New pump on order and will replace when it gets in.

21 minutes ago, Stanley said:

You can have you alternator checked as well while your in there with the belt off, that would eliminate a charging issue, and its free.

Is there a test for checking the alternator, or are you just referring to the pulley rotating freely without play?

22 minutes ago, Stanley said:

Your app is showing no codes and the key on/off is showing the 4 codes?

Correct.

I'm wondering if the dash computer needs to see some drive cycles or engine running time, to flush those codes out.

Your point about changing the filters is well taken, thank you for the suggestion.