My truck was running ok for about 160 miles and then it acted like it didnt have any power for a few minutes but then it was ok again. I checked the codes when I got home and I got 234 and 236, Ive had them before, the manual describes them as "problem detected in turbocharger wastegate" I checked the wastegate actuator and you can push the rod to open the wastegate with a screwdriver, it takes a some pressure but it does seem to open, and I hooked air to it and it opened at around 25psi, and it doesnt seem like the acuator is leaking or anything. Should it open at a lower psi? Im also getting a 382 code. The heater works when you plug it in, and the truck doesnt have any problems starting when its cold out, so im not sure whats not working -the code is for the heater relay #2- and im also not sure where the heater relay #2 is, im guessing the one relay in the fuse box under the hood, but I want to make sure cuz that relays about $80, and i hate to sound cheap, but do I really need this relay for the truck to run ok? Thanks in advance

The heater relay is in the fuse box under the hood, and it shouldn't be $80 by anymeans!!! It's a standard relay just like the Fuel pump and horn relay. The heater that they are talking about is the one that is under your air horn on the intake. It heats the air beforeyou start the truck. That's the Wait to start light you see when you go to start the truck. and you'll also notice the engine drags a bit when you start it up in cold weather. That is the heater cycling to keep the air warm untill the enging warms up to opeating temp. As to the waste gate, the waste gate does not open untill you reach 20 - 25 psi of boost. that is because of the spring load that you felt while trying to push it with the screwdriver. If it is an HX 35 w/ a boost elbow you can actually get 35 - 40 psi of boost with an aftermarket boost elbow. The HY35 is factory set to 22 psi and can not be modified. the only way to get more boost out of an HY 35 is with a Jclamp or Turn buckle holding the wastgate shut. If your wanting more boost than stock you must have some sort of aftermarket box installed with a boost fooler circuit built in. otherwise you will set DTC for over boost condition and the enging will go into degrade mode. Juswt FYI LOL

I dont want more boost, I just want the codes to go away LOL! if its working ok why do I keep getting those codes, could something else be wrong, could it be the map sensor or something? Ill have to take the relay to the parts store, im pretty sure auto zone told me it was $80, but theyre as lost as I am most of the time

I dont want more boost, I just want the codes to go away LOL! if its working ok why do I keep getting those codes, could something else be wrong, could it be the map sensor or something?

Ill have to take the relay to the parts store, im pretty sure auto zone told me it was $80, but theyre as lost as I am most of the time

My guess is that the map sensor is fine and doing what it is supose to do and tell the ecm that the boost is too high, which it may be happening. Now why is it happening??? that's the question, I bet if you pulled your turbo off and check the Exhaust side it's caked with soot and carbon causeing the wastgate to stick closed.

now how to fix it??? He He He!!! run some Lucas in your fuel or Marvel mystery oil in your fuel. Runn about 2 tanks with atleast a full bottle of each in a full fuel up. while that mix is in there, here's the fun part, RUN IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!! reason being you need the mix to build up in the exhaust and you also need to build up high EGT heat in there to burn out the carbon.

Try it and let me know. if you do a lot of conservative driving with the low sulfer fuel out there now a days there has been issues of crabon buildup in the exhaust. so it's good to get out on the highway and hammer that puppy every now an then.

jg

Yeah the grid heater solenoid on the fender has most likely got a wire pull off or has failed... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/grid-heater/grid-heater.htm As for the P0234 it saying the MAP sensor is working fine but the wastegate is jammed close and not operating properly. P0236 is saying the wastegate was jammed shut and the boost stayed too high too long for typical function. But there is 2 conditions here that might be occuring... a. The MAP sensor failed within specs. In other words the boost value is stuck at a high number and no longer changing. This can bee seen with a live dataa tool like ScanGauge II. b. Your wastegate is physically jammed and needs to be delt with. Then you been driving with a heavy foot and/or pulling heavy trailers.

a. The MAP sensor failed within specs. In other words the boost value is stuck at a high number and no longer changing. This can bee seen with a live dataa tool like ScanGauge II. b. Your wastegate is physically jammed and needs to be delt with. Then you been driving with a heavy foot and/or pulling heavy trailers.

Was this the scan tool you were talking about last night??? would it work in my case for reading the data stream??? or were you meaning something more ?

PM Sent.

My guess is that the map sensor is fine and doing what it is supose to do and tell the ecm that the boost is too high, which it may be happening. Now why is it happening??? that's the question, I bet if you pulled your turbo off and check the Exhaust side it's caked with soot and carbon causeing the wastgate to stick closed.

Should I pull the turbo off first and clean it out?

b. Your wastegate is physically jammed and needs to be delt with. Then you been driving with a heavy foot and/or pulling heavy trailers.

I do pull trailers, but i havent done any pulling in 5 months or so, and the code is still there. Even if I erase the code and then just start the truck again the code comes right back, does that sound more like the map sensor? And I just dont have the cash rt now to buy another scanner, the vp kinda wiped me out.

If the code returns instantly with the key just being turned on them most likely the MAP sensor is toast...

If the code returns instantly with the key just being turned on them most likely the MAP sensor is toast...

Make absolutly sure there is no box / power adder is plugged in first, some boxes are under the hood and you may not know if it's there if your not the original owner. with my edge plugged in I had a hard set P0236 and couldn't clear it. bought a new map sensor ($190) and plugged it up and had the same p code. unplugged the edge box ans plugged in the factory connector codes cleared. Thats how i found out my edge comp was toast!! takeing that ($190) part back!! Yea!!! but still may need an ECM or VP.

Im the origional owner, so there shouldnt be any upgrades, unless dodge felt like givn me something extra I didnt know about LOL

bought a new map sensor ($190) and plugged it up and had the same p code.

Wow! I bought mine from Cummins and got the MAP sensor and adapter harness for $130... (Tip for the future)