Went and did my taxes a few days back and found out I'm getting some money back this year rather than paying, which is awesome news for me and the hospital... I'll be using the majority of the money to pay off the hospital bill I racked up last Thursday, all thanks to the stupid ice and snow!! :banghead::banghead::banghead:Anyway, I decided that if I'm gonna pay off the hospital I at least want to get an HID Kit for my truck. I have been looking for the blue-ish tint ones and haven't found ant good sites. I want something that stands out from the crowd, and no, I am not gonna get the cheap e-bay knock-off's. Anybody know of some good sites or at least lead me in the right direction? Thanks!

Went and did my taxes a few days back and found out I'm getting some money back this year rather than paying, which is awesome news for me and the hospital... I'll be using the majority of the money to pay off the hospital bill I racked up last Thursday, all thanks to the stupid ice and snow!! :banghead::banghead::banghead: Anyway, I decided that if I'm gonna pay off the hospital I at least want to get an HID Kit for my truck. I have been looking for the blue-ish tint ones and haven't found ant good sites. I want something that stands out from the crowd, and no, I am not gonna get the cheap e-bay knock-off's. Anybody know of some good sites or at least lead me in the right direction? Thanks!

I'm not gonna tell you where to get a kit cause its just against my morals, I will tell you to visit hidplanet.com to educate yourself about the good the bad and the ugly when it comes to HIDS.

Hid "kits" come in basically two flavors.OEM kits robbed out of stock housings, most people use these when building there own diy setup.The electronics are higher quality but the bulb is...well...rigged, to say the least.Everything else. No matter what anyone tells you, that plug n play aka direct fit aka bolt in kit is made in china. German technology oh whatever. There are only 2 main manufactures of HID kits, and about 72,000 rebrands of these kits. You can consider all of these Chinese White Box goods.The chinese ballast are of a lower quality but for all intents and purposes..they are just fine. Those 600 dollar fancy off road lights you see on trophy trucks? yup. same junk chinese white box ballast inside.with the chinese stuff all the bulbs are the same. well, with all hid its like that.these are basically 35w metal halide lamps. the glass part of the bulb aka the tube is what makes light. the plastic part that makes this glass tube adapt into your OEM housing is the part that is made in china.The issue? ALL hid kits put into a housing NOT ORIGINALLY DESIGNED for hid lights will have a screwed up beam pattern. i dont care what kit or how you rig it together it wont be right. it will be brighter to the sides but the light will have LESS throw. hands down. and piss off oncoming traffic.Where the bulb is placed in relation to the reflector is critical. if they are off a just a hair the headlight will look different color, or the light will be focused in different areas..or not at all.projectors...this is a whole nother can of of beans. but you can go three ways here. OEM projectors into your housings {tons of work}aftermarket housings with projectors {crap fit}aftermarket projects that fit into OEM housing {complex install}the third really is the best choice. the hardest part is seperating the lense from the reflector withing breakng it. but with a large box and a heat gun you can do it.HID COLOR... this is expressed in Kelvin. the OEM hid look you want 6000k, for ice blue 8000k, for royal blue 10,000k purple 12,000k anything higher will be pink.i run 5000k hid in my car because they are the same color as halogen and cops leave me alone.

Hid "kits" come in basically two flavors.

OEM kits robbed out of stock housings, most people use these when building there own diy setup.

The electronics are higher quality but the bulb is...well...rigged, to say the least.

Everything else. No matter what anyone tells you, that plug n play aka direct fit aka bolt in kit is made in china. German technology oh whatever. There are only 2 main manufactures of HID kits, and about 72,000 rebrands of these kits. You can consider all of these Chinese White Box goods.

The chinese ballast are of a lower quality but for all intents and purposes..they are just fine. Those 600 dollar fancy off road lights you see on trophy trucks? yup. same junk chinese white box ballast inside.

with the chinese stuff all the bulbs are the same. well, with all hid its like that.

these are basically 35w metal halide lamps. the glass part of the bulb aka the tube is what makes light. the plastic part that makes this glass tube adapt into your OEM housing is the part that is made in china.

The issue? ALL hid kits put into a housing NOT ORIGINALLY DESIGNED for hid lights will have a screwed up beam pattern. i dont care what kit or how you rig it together it wont be right. it will be brighter to the sides but the light will have LESS throw. hands down. and piss off oncoming traffic.

Where the bulb is placed in relation to the reflector is critical. if they are off a just a hair the headlight will look different color, or the light will be focused in different areas..or not at all.

projectors...this is a whole nother can of of beans. but you can go three ways here.

OEM projectors into your housings {tons of work}

aftermarket housings with projectors {crap fit}

aftermarket projects that fit into OEM housing {complex install}

the third really is the best choice. the hardest part is seperating the lense from the reflector withing breakng it. but with a large box and a heat gun you can do it.

HID COLOR... this is expressed in Kelvin. the OEM hid look you want 6000k, for ice blue 8000k, for royal blue 10,000k purple 12,000k anything higher will be pink.

i run 5000k hid in my car because they are the same color as halogen and cops leave me alone.

Yeah, I checked out the website that was posted earlier and found the good, the bad, and the ugly. I decided to hold off on that because I am one of those people that gets very annoyed when on the other side of oncoming traffic. I want to do it the right way, I don't like the setup of a aftermarket housing/projector on the truck. It just looks a little cheesy, I think.

--- Update to the previous post...

dracozny, what projectors did you go with?

I am concerned with size of projectors fitting inside the housing. I do know they offer mini's, but I want something that worls right.

dracozny, what projectors did you go with?

I am concerned with size of projectors fitting inside the housing. I do know they offer mini's, but I want something that worls right.

I am using E92's the MH1 and MD2S were not available when I was purchasing parts. the MH1 is actually a good projector overall although being a purist I say stick with the d2S. both of these projectors are designed by TRS specifically for retrofits. they also produce the FX-R which is a clone of the TL. if you are just doing a single projector I would say go with the FX-R. projectors can get very pricey but I would suggest to not skimp due to price look at reviews as well. the g5's are cheap and quality seems to be rather random depending on where they are manufactured. check out the local salvage yards you might be able to snag some damaged headlights dirt cheap to harvest the projectors from, often times this is where the projectors on ebay come from.

Do you have a dual or single projector setup? I think the D2S oughta work fine. I have no idea how this will play out If I decide to go with the D2S projectors, which is what I will probably go with. The price seems right. I am new to this and have absolutely no idea how to even get started. I watched the video on the site you recommended and it seems fairly simple. Throw it in the oven, take it out, and tear apart the housing. My main concern is how will the projector bolt to the housing. Did you have a difficult time doing your setup?

Do you have a dual or single projector setup? I think the D2S oughta work fine. I have no idea how this will play out If I decide to go with the D2S projectors, which is what I will probably go with. The price seems right. I am new to this and have absolutely no idea how to even get started. I watched the video on the site you recommended and it seems fairly simple. Throw it in the oven, take it out, and tear apart the housing. My main concern is how will the projector bolt to the housing. Did you have a difficult time doing your setup?

well I'm not doing a retro I am actually designing and building from scratch. its a quad. the e92's are 3" lenses so its a tight squeeze altogether.

Went and did my taxes a few days back and found out I'm getting some money back this year rather than paying!

You have way to much trust in the government holding on to YOUR money. Its yours. I never give them any more than needed and would rather pay in a bit that give up more of MY money for them to waste. The days are coming where you may not get it back just like the PONZI schemed Social security system the gov pilfered dry for everything but the intended purpose.:banghead: Sorry to be off subject here. Don't hate me for it.

I have been reading good things about these ones. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/retro-solutions/339346-dodge-ram-digital-hid-kits-no-flicker-no-errors.html

You have way to much trust in the government holding on to YOUR money. Its yours. I never give them any more than needed and would rather pay in a bit that give up more of MY money for them to waste. The days are coming where you may not get it back just like the PONZI schemed Social security system the gov pilfered dry for everything but the intended purpose.:banghead:

Sorry to be off subject here. Don't hate me for it.

No problem. You are entitled to your own opinion. as far as the tax subject goes, there's really not much I can do in terms of tax deductions from my paycheck. I only claim 1, which is myself and I dont really see any other way around it.

--- Update to the previous post...

dracozny, I will wait until you finish your setup. Then I will purchase the next setup you make.

I have been reading good things about these ones. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/retro-solutions/339346-dodge-ram-digital-hid-kits-no-flicker-no-errors.html

just looking at the photos of them the ballast case looks exactly like the ones VVME sells just with a different label. I wouldn't be surprised if they are manufactured by the same Chinese factory outside of Beijing. I point this out because VVME's kits are cheaper.

I honestly have no clue, and haven't ran them. I have only read good reports on them thou.

I honestly have no clue, and haven't ran them. I have only read good reports on them thou.

I wasn't saying they were bad or anything just noting the similarity. infact I am running the VVME kits with D2S bulbs in my projectors.

All of these HID kits posted are chinese "white box" kits.150 dollars is rape.If you want a no flicker kit, get on ebay. search for CANBUS HID KIT. those are the ones that wont flicker in chrysler vehicles.Sort by price, lowest to highest with shipping. You should be able to get a CANBUS kit for 50 bucks shipped or less. Most popular seller is "SuperVtec" though he has about 100 seller names. His brand is "Xentec"if you have a junk kit and they flicker hit me up and i will give you a set of flicker boxes, line conditioners whatever you want to call them. They are just 100mf capacitors inside of a case.If you have, want or are doing a porjector retro get a kit with the bulb base you need. More than likely D2S. DO NOT GET PROJECTORS THAT ASK FOR H1 BULB, THEY ARE DESIGNED FOR HALOGEN!!! then you are right back where you started.The problem with projector retros is the housing is complete dog crap. in order to do it right....well. good luck there. you really are better off getting junk ebay headlights with projectors already in them and trying to convert those to a higher quality projector assembly. The fit will be so much closer.I have NEVER in my life seen a projector retro that was not total dog crap . they ALL BREAK. the reflector was never intended or designed to hold the weight of a rear mount projector while you are out wheeling around.Why on gods green earth would anyone put ricer headlights in there truck? the frontal area on your truck has got to be at least that of 3 hondas. So why not just add aux lighting that is properly designed and aimable?no?Dont mean to go off on a rant here, but typically cummins owners are more concerned with function over form.HID kits and retros just do not perform like there OEM counterparts. Are trucks are higher up and already cause glare and blindness to on coming drivers. Multiply that with greatly brighter lights that are not focused and you get instantly blinded oncoming traffic at speed that was not expecting to be blinded.Those lights you rigged up to make you feel safer may very well get you killed. The NHTSA has BANNED ALL HID RETROFITS! Dont believe me? go check for yourself. Pilot about lost there butt over this.Be safe, Be smart.

Well I can tell you I did it (bought a e-bay kit) it didn't work on my Ram do to the fact that my truck has the "lamp out" warning thing on it. It reads the amp draw of each circuit and if it reads low the "Lamp Out" comes on in the dash. Then you go around and find which one is not working. Anyway after I install the kit I turned on the headlamps and the started to blink on and off. After hours of research I found out I was going to have to buy a $180+ relay kit to make it work. I ended up installing them on my wife's Neon and they lasted about 2.5 years before a ballast took a crap. Save your money here is what I'm getting a buddy down the street has a set and they fit as good a the stock headlamps and look cool as heck! http://www.topgearautosport.com/part/A1223KVZ101/Dodge_Ram_2002-2005_Black_CCFL_Halo_Projector_Headlights_with_LED.html Here is a link for all of the kits. http://www.topgearautosport.com/type/101-1012/Dodge/Ram/Projector_Headlights.html Good luck Don

I found out I was going to have to buy a $180+ relay kit to make it work.

People don't seriously spend that kind of money on a relay kit do they?? It's $5 in fuse holders and connectors, 2 junkyard pocketed mini relays and 10' of wire I could MAYBE make it cost like $25 if I tried, and got a female headlight socket for plug n play and sockets for brand new relays, and split loomed everything.

so your prob a vendor and ill step on some toes.

Those appear to be just the same china junk as everything else.

I am an Ebay Power Seller, I used to make my living selling HID kits for autos, trucks, UTV's and various offroad applications.

If you use a "CANBUS" kit, it will communicate the proper signal with your Chrysler's computer and defeat the lamp out warning.

In my business i sold these as "Cancel Boxes" they are just a little black box that plugs inline with the ballast low side {12v} and fixes lamp out warning on newer node cars. ie canbus which is pretty much in everything chrysler and eurochrysler for about the last decade.

These Chinese, they are smart. Seeing the popularity of the cancel box the race was on to incorporate this feature into there ballast. Thereby hoarding more business by eliminating this competitors product, albeit a complimentary one. Those crafty crafty chinese. ;)

So im just here trying to save the regular joe a few bucks. In the world of HID price is almost irrelevant, these kits cost pennies to produce. Shop based on the features you know you need and buy from a reputable seller that will back the product up given a failure does occur.

All chinese HID ballast have about 3% failure rate right out the box. About 5% burn out within a year.. once you get past a year the failure rate does not seem to climb. Its just in the numbers at this point. How closely are your parts matched based on sheer random dumb luck? I have the cheapest kit on the planet sloppily installed in my car and has been going strong for 4 years now. Proper installation is the key.

It doesnt have to look pretty. Clean tight connections. Good Ground. DO NOT plug into the OEM headlight harness, the wire is too small. Even though the HID pull less running amp the initial surge is very high and they will not reliably start on that small wire.

USE THE RELAY WIRING HARNESS!!! this is the only secret to hids. use the freaking relay harness!

the end! enjoy hid's they are cheap and fund to play with. dont get caught up in the b.s.

p.s. get plug n play hid kit for h3's and plop em in your fogs. slightly less illegal, can turn them off on busy roads. much better idea imho

--- Update to the previous post...

if you buy an ebay kit ask the seller for relay wiring kit.

it will cost no more than 15$ extra.

They sell a generic aux lighting relay kit at any auto store for 25 bucks. you would just have to connect the wires to the ballast plug. no big deal, but some people arent even comfortable with this level of diy.

if your car has a 9007/h4 or similar dual filament bulb get a "flex" or moving hid kit. this allows for hid high and low beam with only one ballast per headlight. the bulb moves via a magnetic solenoid within the bulb holder.

all "moving" kits come with the relay harness...they have to to make them work ;)

mmm there is some old info here and some mixed info..

first off about our trucks unless you are driving a 3rd gen you do not need a "canbus" kit/harness/adapter etc... 2nd gens and older are just regular wires and relays no fancy computer on the headlights.

as far as adding auxiliary lights vs doing a retro hey whatever floats your boat its your truck.

mounting projectors to the reflector.... most retros I have seen are mounted in a couple ways either bolted to a seperate reflector which as far as i can tell only 2 after market headlights for our trucks actually fit this bill. in many cases the projector is bolted to the headlight assembly itself. there is a third option which the projector is actually bolted to the vehicle but this is not really an option for our trucks.

now as far as the NHSTA declaring retrofits illegal there is a loop hole here. they are only illegal if the light output does not comply with FMVSS 108 BUT you actually have to send them in to be tested along with a considerable chunk of $$

on the other hand its really dependent on how well your state and local agencies enforce this issue. in most cases the kit user is more likely to be pulled over. doing a retro and sticking with bulbs around 4300k - 6000k in color will also help keep you off the radar.

the moving bulb kit: in general the output is still marginal at best. obviously everyone will have differing opinions heck some say a cheap hid kit is da bomb. amusingly my sport headlights with halogens do better.