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does anyone know what the torque spec is for the main hub nut that is on the front axle for the wheel bearing assembly? Also, might be helpful to know the spec for the 4 12point bolts that bolt in from behind and hold it on.I had the driver side seize up on me Friday night on the interstate. Yay! Not bad though..no one got hurt.

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  • Author

wow! 180? really? figured around 120...ok. Thanks

when you replace it, wire brush the inside of the carrier nice and clean the put antisieze on both the hub flange and carrier mating surfaces. will aid in being able to remove them easier next time

  • Author

good idea....its ready to go back together now.probly wouldnt hurt to anti seize the 4 12 pt bolts either....I had a heck of a time getting those out and that was with a 1/2 impact.

--- Update to the previous post...

4 mounting bolts 122 ft/lbs

1 drive axle nut (4WD) 180 ft/lbs

hey the 180 for the main nut....Does that go straight on with 180? Or is there some kind of preload first?
  • Owner

Right from the book... 1. Install the wheel speed sensor in the hub bearing if equipped.2. Position the rotor on the hub/bearing.3. Press the wheel studs/hub extension studs through the back side of the rotor and through the hub bearingflange.4. Apply a liberal quantity of anti-seize compound to the splines of the front drive shaft.5. Insert the two rearmost, top and bottom rotor hub bolts in the steering knuckle. Insert the bolts through the back side of the knuckle so they extend out the front face as shown.6. Position the hub spacer and brake shield on bolts just installed in knuckle.7. Align the rotor hub with the drive shaft and start the shaft into the rotor hub splines.8. Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread the boltsinto the bearing flange far enough to hold the assembly in place.9. Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/bearing bolts to 166 N.m (122 ft. lbs.)10. Install the washer and hub nut and tighten to 245 N.m (180 ft. lbs.).11. Install a new cotter pin in the hub nut. Tighten the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole in the shaft with the opening in nut.12. Install the brake caliper. Refer to DISC - 2500 & 3500 .13. Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed sensorwire under the hood.14. Install the wheel and tire assemblies.15. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.16. Apply the brakes several times to seat the brake shoes and caliper piston. DO NOT move the vehicle untila firm brake pedal is obtained.

  • Author

Right from the book... 1. Install the wheel speed sensor in the hub bearing if equipped. 2. Position the rotor on the hub/bearing. 3. Press the wheel studs/hub extension studs through the back side of the rotor and through the hub bearing flange. 4. Apply a liberal quantity of anti-seize compound to the splines of the front drive shaft. 5. Insert the two rearmost, top and bottom rotor hub bolts in the steering knuckle. Insert the bolts through the back side of the knuckle so they extend out the front face as shown. 6. Position the hub spacer and brake shield on bolts just installed in knuckle. 7. Align the rotor hub with the drive shaft and start the shaft into the rotor hub splines. 8. Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread the bolts into the bearing flange far enough to hold the assembly in place. 9. Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/bearing bolts to 166 N.m (122 ft. lbs.) 10. Install the washer and hub nut and tighten to 245 N.m (180 ft. lbs.). 11. Install a new cotter pin in the hub nut. Tighten the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole in the shaft with the opening in nut. 12. Install the brake caliper. Refer to DISC - 2500 & 3500 . 13. Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed sensor wire under the hood. 14. Install the wheel and tire assemblies. 15. Remove the support and lower the vehicle. 16. Apply the brakes several times to seat the brake shoes and caliper piston. DO NOT move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.

awesome...thanks. I suppose it would be the same or close enough if there is any difference between the years on mine and yours. This is the dana 60. is that what these instructions are for? also, when setting the torque on the main axle nut...do you think it's ok to put it in 4wd hi ...in an effort to keep it from spinning?

That is how I did mine. No problems since.

  • Author

great....thanks everbody. Soon as I get the $$ I'll do the other side. Plus I need to replace tie rod ends....I have alot of play at the steering wheel.

Great time to bring this up, but how are your ball joints?

  • Author

ball joint are good actually....no play at all....i have to go by a 90 degree grease zerk though....the top ball joint is the only greasable one and whoever replaced them last made it to where you cant get to the fitting. They seem tight however.

That good. At least you wont have to take it all apart again like someone I know. It is easier the second time.:lmao2:

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.