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Gots me this truck here and it needs a new drivers door. Not the most familiar with the year range of truck. What year range does this body style have so I can look for a driver door? I think its 90-94, right?

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The truck or door? :lol:

The truck looks like this:

Posted Image

For the most part atleast.

That was the same body style of chevy from 1988-1998. You should also replace the hinge pins anad bushings when changing the door/doors since they are notorious for failing and letting the doors on these years of trucks sag and not completely latch.

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I used to own a 98 gmc sierra c1500. I traded it in for my CTD. I'm aware of the pins and bushings. It was the first thing I did to the truck as I thought that was what the problem was. I replaced them, and it seems like made the problem worse. The damned bushings won't even stay in their spots! They work out of the holes...So I looked at the problem a little more. Not once did I give it any thought when I looked at this truck. The problem was not as bad then when we got the truck and at the time I thought it was just the notorious pin/bushing problem.BUT, it turns out, that the previous owner must have some managed to rip the door off the hinges by just a little bit. Then, they proceeded to bubble gum weld up the hinges back to the door. Never thinking about alignment, etc. So the door hinges were welded back up when the door was sagging.To make it worse, the latch assembly on the door has worn out to the point that the door rubs on the rocker panel and takes an act of God to get the door to latch!....this is why I just need a new door. As all the problems are related to the door... :banghead:The junkyard wants $160 some-odd dollars for the door, if they had it in stock!

  • 5 weeks later...
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Okay guys, I got the door fixed! Kept the original door. Upon replacing the pins and bushings again, I replaced the latch assembly. Works as good as new!BUT, now I have a problem with the oil. I checked the oil level, and it is still within spec. But the gauge will flicker? It will bounce back and forth towards the high pressure side and then stop and be steady. Then a few minutes later, it will do it again. Then go steady...I don't think I have a bearing problem or anything, could it be the pump, sender, or sensor?

Most common would be the sender. Could possibly be the connection at the sender or wiring to it. Have heard horror stories about clusters, never saw them personally though. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

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Most common would be the sender. Could possibly be the connection at the sender or wiring to it. Have heard horror stories about clusters, never saw them personally though. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

I just got off the phone with O'reilly's. The guy was leaning towards the sender. He said it has a diaphragm. So I'm gonna give that a whirl and see what happens. :pray: Wife needs a vehicle to work!
  • 3 months later...

Are 4l60e transmissions interchangable in the 1989-1998 Chevy and gmc k1500??

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  • 4 weeks later...

There shouldn't be any differences between a Chevy and GMC transmission. At the most there might be some wiring differences between the yearsSent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.