Ok - need a hand - I suck at electronics

Drivers window would go back up. New motor/bracket for window 2 months back chasing this issue.

Worked flawlessly - till a week ago started having more issues.

When I apply 12v direct to window motor harness it goes up and down fine - so its a problem with the switch (in the door where you move the windows up and down) or the wiring in the harness.

I assume the switch in door connects the circuit when you want to window to move. That is the circuit is "broken" when the window switch is in neutral position. That means that the harness should have constant 12v right ??

So how do I multimeter the harness to check the blue and white wire ?

Do I use the 12v setting on the multimeter or the ohms ?? Assuming the 12v.

Also should I be getting a constant 12v reading there - or not ??

thanks Im on the road today towing and would like to fix it !!

video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlzgj0ZNIvY

--- Update to the previous post...

I ohmd out the white and blue wire on 200ohms setting.

They both read at almost 0 - same as just a regular guage wire.

So thinking that means the wiring is fine.

Problem with the switch in the door ???

Do you have 12 volts going into the switch and coming out of the switch when moved to the up or down position?

Do you have 12 volts going into the switch and coming out of the switch when moved to the up or down position?

Not sure how to easily tell as I *think* it should be a constant 12v - the switch just establishes the circuit in eitehr the up or down position. So not sure which wire is 12V on the wiring harness and if that assumption is correct (constant 12v). Things I know so far are 1) Window motor works fine with 12v direct applied to motor harness 2) The 2 wires that come from factory wiring harness to the motor harness both ohm out at close t 0 (like a normal wire) 3) When I try to OHM the two points on the switch in the door itself (the backside electrical prongs with the harness disconnected I get a value of close to 0 in down and neutral posiution ... and 1 in up position - not sure if this is right seems weird 4) The red wire in the wiring harness to the door switch has constant 12v - regardless of key on or off

Ok. You have power coming into the switch. Next check to see if you have 12 volts leaving the switch when you move it to the up and down position.

Ok. You have power coming into the switch. Next check to see if you have 12 volts leaving the switch when you move it to the up and down position.

Honestly dont know how to do that without a powerprobe. The door has to be take off so the switch gets disconnected from the harness. Even if the harness is attached back to the door --- I would need to pierce the sheathing on either the blue/white wire as a guess to check for 12v going to the motor - and operate the switch at same time - definately a 2 person job. Thing is 12v applied to motor works right (window goes up). The two wires ohm out at close to 0 like a normal wire (assuming this tells me we have good wiring) We have 12v full time going to the switch. So in my head - that ONLY leaves the switch as the problem correct ?

Go to parts store and by a 12 volt test light. Cost like 5 bucks and will save a lot of headache. I won't worry so much about voltage because there should be no drop. If there is a drop in voltage window would be slow.You just put ground on something and start touching other side to stuff till it lights up!

The switch would be easy to change, but you should still be able to check if you have 12v at the switch and through the switch, without removing the door panel.

The switch would be easy to change, but you should still be able to check if you have 12v at the switch and through the switch, without removing the door panel.

how ?

--- Update to the previous post...

how ?

Anyone know where to get a wiring schematic for this part of teh harness

I want to test the other side (passenger side) and see if it ohms out the same

Not sure which wires without pulling passenger off also

Get me pictures and I will tell you how to check it.On a switch there should be 3 wires. One for power in. One for reverse window motor and one to turn motor for window up. Just disconnect wire to switch in all three spots. Find your live wire and put back on switch, then switch switch to roll up motor and test the two wire spots that are missing.I guess you could even test with all wires left on switch as well.

Get me pictures and I will tell you how to check it.

On a switch there should be 3 wires. One for power in. One for reverse window motor and one to turn motor for window up. Just disconnect wire to switch in all three spots. Find your live wire and put back on switch, then switch switch to roll up motor and test the two wire spots that are missing.

I guess you could even test with all wires left on switch as well.

Well Im 99% its teh switch.

I found a wiring diagram in FSM. When I ohm out that switch I get

1 in up position

1 in neutral poistion

0 in down poistion

when I do the drivers side (broken) I get

1 in up position

0 in neutral

0 in down position

these I am pretty sure should all be the same (each side match)

--- Update to the previous post...

Get me pictures and I will tell you how to check it.

On a switch there should be 3 wires. One for power in. One for reverse window motor and one to turn motor for window up. Just disconnect wire to switch in all three spots. Find your live wire and put back on switch, then switch switch to roll up motor and test the two wire spots that are missing.

I guess you could even test with all wires left on switch as well.

The video shows the wiring. I cant disconnect the wires from the harness. At least I dont think - will recheck.

Wire testers have poke ends. You can push through wire to test if needed. At work unable to watch video :banghead:

Why would the switches ohm out different tho ?

As far as I know they shouldn't. Hard to read and troubleshoot. I'm much more hands on.

I had the very same window problem on the drivers side that you are having.I replaced the switch and my problem was solved.Dodge dealer told me that the switch is a fairly common failure for the 2nd gens.Be sitting down when you check the price for the switch. After the sticker shock I found a good used one and put it in for $30 bucks. Been working for 4 years now.

I'm with War Eagle, unless you have a f'd up harness (overly exuberant stereo installer or vermen), by process of elimination (motor, wiring plugs, grounds, relays), moving parts fail, rarely is it a wiring issue. You have already eliminated the window motor and I assume you cleaned the connections all that is left (i don't think there is a relay in the window circuit) is the switch. TV tuner cleaner sometimes cleans switches enough to make them work again, but stuff is hard to get thanks to all the Meth heads. Good luck

Think I'll order a reman from rock auto. For 45 and see ...,

Think I'll order a reman from rock auto. For 45 and see ...,

Well its in and it all lit up like a XMAS tree By that I mean I now have a drivers side window again. Works perfect. So that was an interesting exercise in diagnosis - first time chasing an electrical issue and managed to get it Thx all.