Ok, so I got rid of my 24V with headaches, and apparently picked up a 12V with someone else's headaches.. So, out of the frying pan, into the fire.I've been working out some kinks on this '97. I test drove it last friday, and from what I recall, it seemed to be fine.. Unless I didn't notice it (my fault for lack of due-diligence.)At any rate, the issue (for this thread) is the transmission.Story goes: 2 owners ago, dude bought a Jasper trans, installed it, killed it, warrantied it, killed that one, warrantied it, killed it, then Jasper said "this is your last one."so he pulled the 5spd from this '97, installed the Jasper auto in it, and stuck the 5 speed into the truck that he was using to kill transmissions.However, he did a ____-poor job, and sold it to last owner, who killed the poorly/improperly incomplete install in short order. So he took it to a diesel trans guy in MD, who rebuilt the Jasper trans using triple disc TC, red clutches, kevlar bands, HD valve body, etc. (parts from HTS Diesel).Installed a PCM (to replace a non-existant one) and rewired everything, so to speak, or so the story goes.Fast forward to me.. ( I don't need any "I told you so" type stuff, because I know. Believe me, I know.. One word: Wife. )I drove it home last friday, and all seemed well, although I did notice it seemed to rev a little higher to get it moving.. Granted, I'm new to autos, as my '01 was a manual, and the '96 before that, was manual, so I'm somewhat rusty on how they perform/react. Thought maybe the TC had a little higher stall.Last night, my 7 y.o. daughter wanted to ride around the block in the new dually.. Wish granted. That's when I noticed that something wasn't quite right... No low/1st gear engagement. Neither with shifter in D, or if I manually drop it to L (1), nothing, nada.. it seems to stay in 2nd gear or so.. I will add that if in D, at a stop, let off the brake and the truck starts to creep forward.. give a little throttle and drop it into 2nd, it feels to almost 'drop' a gear, as the forward progress seems to be a more positive engagement, but still no 1st. Driving 30mph, slow prepare for a stop sign, drop lever to 2, it downshifts.. drop to 1 from like 10mph, no gear change/drop occurs.. it stays in 2nd..TC lockup and such works, and with the 4.10s, 60-65mph yeilds about 1900-2000rpm.The Coolant Temp Sensor circuit is fubar somewhere, as is the tach in the I/C. The tach does read through the scan gauge, however, so the Crank Position Sensor seems to be operational.I was told this trans has a 3/36 warranty, but getting that info is proving to be a tad on the tough side..Trans looks fresh, complete with gray paint, Jasper stickers, etc., so it was apparently rebuilt in the Jasper case.Help. I need to troubleshoot this as inexpensively as I can, for obvious reasons.

[ATTACH]4530[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4531[/ATTACH]From the Galaxy S3

For a thermostat, you might try one of the many rad fan switches, stock on many cars. These are normally very reliable, in general operation and temp accuracy. Ebay has a selection of cheap choices as will your local wrecker. If you manage to track down a type you want, you can even get one new from an auto parts store. Many are cheap even new. These are usually of the style that threads into the rad but would be easy to zip tie directly to the rad.

Thanks . I thought about that, but I'd rather stay away for using any type of sensor that I rely on its radiant temp, now, and go with something that actually samples the fluids temp. Derale has one that is 1/8" npt. The switching temp is a little higher than I'd like but it is the only thing I've found thusfar. Most coolant fan switches are rated around 205*F and that's too high for trans fan, IMO. From the Galaxy S3

I had one with my derailed kit I never used. Always on for me. Will send it to you tues if I can find it tomorrow

cool. let me know what you want for it.

cool. let me know what you want for it.

Like our national debt - free money $$ !!! If I can find it ....

This one isn't 1/8 npt ... Think you just tap into where you want with correct thread and then it's a voltage signal based on temp ...

Work ?

Lied here's the NPt fitting

If it works pm me your address and I'll send it hopefully tomorrow

I'll give it a whirl.. looks similar to the ones I have, but not identical. they' wouldn't "close the circuit" until well into the 220*F range, per my thermometer and a pan of hot water.

so I did some wire chasing last night on the old truck.. Researching why my OSS is throwing a code. Wiring diagrams ('97, '99, '02) all show the OSS with a LG/BK (1) signal wire color, and a DkB/BK (2) OSS ground wire color.

OSS (1) goes to PCM, C2-B25, OSS (@) goes to PCM, C2-B28 with no connections/plugs between the OSS and the PCM.

My truck:

OSS1 is pinkish, OSS2 is BK. The wires go up the Driver's side of the firewall to the main harness at a "T" (one side of the T goes inside cab, the other side goes to PDC area) and disappears into the big harness..

I used a fox/hound (Fig. A) to try and trace the wires, but it was useless. I could get no solid signal, as there was too much bleed-over everywhere.

The other main issue is that PCM C2-B25 & B28 have no wiring in the plug. This truck was originally a manual trans truck, so that is understandable.

Question: Can I just rob a couple pins from a spare/junk plug, install them into C2 on my truck, and run new wires from the OSS to the C2 connector? The issues I'm having are:

[*]P0720 code

[*]1-2 shift at 10mph

[*]2-3 shift at 18mph

[*]OD shift at 20-22mph

[*]Only get a downshift if speeds are < 10mph

Fig. A

no one? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Lied here's the NPt fitting

If it works pm me your address and I'll send it hopefully tomorrow

Got it, John. Thank you!

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Work ?... Or fail ...

Work ?... Or fail ...

I haven't had a chance to install it yet. Maybe this weekend, if the weather holds out

UPDATE:So I got a spare PCM plug from the wrecker yard yesterday. Today, I disassembles C2 and pinned in B25 and B28 ( as stated before, they're non-existant in my manual plugs).I then wired in the OSS to these wires. Also as ststed before, OSS pin1 goes to C2 (B28). However, the OSS plug wasn't numbered, and the wire colors do not match the FSM diagram colors. It is an AC type wave-circuit, so it doesn't really matter which is which, so I wire'd them in up anyway.I went to clear codes, only to find the I.O.D. fuse blown, so I replaced it. I knew something was amiss as my dome light didn't come on, and the key buzzer wasn't working.Cleared my OSS code, and took a test drive. It still shifts 1-2 and 2-3 before I even get to 20mph.So I came home and checked codes again, and got 2 new codes (I didn't see them before the test drive, but I didn't really check, I just cleared codes.)P1765 - Transmission 12V Supply Relay Control CircuitP0753 - 3-4 Shiflt Solenoid Circuit.No idea why.. I'm assuming the trans is in a sort of 'Limp Mode' so it short-shifts.??More checking to do, once I thaw out (34*F and breezy here)

The limp mode is going into second gear and staying there. I don't know why yours is shifting so soon, but mine shifts quite quick too unless I am pressing hard on the throttle. Normal conditions the O/D shift is at 47MPH.HEY!!!! I just remembered a comment that Dave Goerends told me about the RE trannies...... The computer only looks at two things to determine what gear to put the tranny in. One is the OSS on the side of the tranny and the other is the TPS to determine load. Maybe your TPS is the problem?

The limp mode is going into second gear and staying there. I don't know why yours is shifting so soon, but mine shifts quite quick too unless I am pressing hard on the throttle. Normal conditions the O/D shift is at 47MPH. HEY!!!! I just remembered a comment that Dave Goerends told me about the RE trannies...... The computer only looks at two things to determine what gear to put the tranny in. One is the OSS on the side of the tranny and the other is the TPS to determine load. Maybe your TPS is the problem?

Funny you say that. I was jsut reading about how there's quite a few guys that had issues with early shifting, etc.. Then they (12 valve guys) went with a potentiometer mod, rather than replace the $300 TPS.. I'm exploring this option, now, as it's about $5 in Radio Shack parts. Also, I'm curious if the two codes that I'm now getting are related to the TCC manual lock switch mod and toggle-controlled OD shift mod I'm running.. BUT, I've got the Trans relay jumpered, and it's making good connections.. EDIT: Adjusting the TV cable

So I drove it this morning.. it's shifting really really early.. like 1-2 @ 8-10mph, and 2-3 around 17-18mph..

I've not adjusted the TV cable yet, but plan to try that before I leave work this afternoon, so to test on my way home.

Also, I hooked up my scanner to the obd2 port, and monitored the TPS %. In idle position, is shows about 27-28%. WOT shows 62-65%, depending on how hard you push it down. Idling, the engine also shows 14% load??

- - - Updated - - -

I checked the tv cable at lunch... it's pulled all the way out on adjustment, and still a tad slack between the cable end and the throttle linkage. When I get home after work, I'll crawl under and check the linkages and springs on the transmission-end of the cabling..

I'm at a loss, otherwise. the tv cable is rather new, by the looks of it and the parts tag is still nice, clean, and intact.

I crawled under it this evening and found nothing wrong.. I tweaked the trans-side cable bracket but it didn't make much difference..

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- - - Updated - - -

Apparently we don't have (m)any auto transmission gurus here..

:sad:

Here's what I have/use:

* 1-2-D controlled by the gear selector (as normal)

OD now controlled by a toggle switch that grounds the 3-4 shift wire (this wire no longer connected to the PCM; it is soley operable via the grounding toggle.

* LU is performed via a grounding toggle switch. LU will also be performed when requested by PCM as this wire still connects to the PCM (unlike the OD wire)

What I noticed this morning on the way to work, is that the LU will occur on it's own (with LU toggle "off" ), when I flip the "on" OD toggle at 40mph, or if I flip OD on at say, 35mph, the LU will occur around 40. It used to occur @ ~48-50mph BEFORE I fixed the OSS connections to the PCM.

At idle in park..

13.7% LOAD, 28.2% TPS.. Seems a little high for both, no?

Pay no mind to the Coolant temp, as the 12V PCM/ECM doesn't read the coolant, only the gauge does.

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