i had there headlight wiring harness conversion on 2000 ram before i went through bankrupcy back in 2009-2010. now i got another truck. i went to there website to order another one. and there website seems to be down?? been checking back for few monthes and still no change. please forgive if this is not the right spot to post but not sure where to post it. whats the deal with www.suvlights.com ???? also anyone have a wiring harness from suv lights that i could buy used????

I tried them too and finally gave up. There are a few members here that have made their own harness.

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Nevermind, I just saw you were one of the guys making his own harness.

I just use 100w fog lights instead of modding the stock headlights. I was kind of happy about that last night with the heavy snow storm and them being mounted below the front bumper. Very easy to see long distance compared to the factory head lights.

I just use 100w fog lights instead of modding the stock headlights. I was kind of happy about that last night with the heavy snow storm and them being mounted below the front bumper. Very easy to see long distance compared to the factory head lights.

i have factory fog lights on mine with silverstars in them. they are not to bad. but yes the fog lights are nice to have when you need them. also works pretty good as a back up. about 6 mothes ago i was comming home from deluth,mn pulling a trailer with a load on it at night. when all of sudden my headlights went out on me. thank god i had the fog lights as a back up. it sucked driving with just the foglights but it was better then nothing. turned out it was the headlight switch that went bad on me. the truck now has a newish headlight switch and turn signal switch.

has anyone use this company before? http://www.danielsternlighting.com i'm thinking of useing this one.

Daniel Stern wont return your calls or emails either.

Daniel Stern wont return your calls or emails either.

i emailed him last night and got a reply from him last night as well.

What did he say? I left a message and emailed over a month ago and still ne reply.

What did he say? I left a message and emailed over a month ago and still ne reply.

here is the reply i got.

Hi, there. Thanks for your persistence -- either your first

mail didn't reach me, or I overlooked it. Didn't mean to

seem as though ignoring you!

Ordering info follows technical info:

Put in a set of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps,

which are

*much* better than the lamps all non-Sport '94-'02 style

Rams got. The

Sport lamps use two bulbs per side (a 9007 high/low and a

9004 high-only)

and produce much more effective, longer and wider, better

focused beam

patterns. They physically fit right in, but require some wiring

adaptation, which is just as well since the factory wiring

tends to starve

the bulbs.

You need:

-a set (left and right) of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport

headlamps. Get

the real ones from the dealer or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com

, not the

Taiwanese knockoffs from eBay or elsewhere on the internet;

the low price of the aftermarket units is attractive, of

course, but despite "OEM quality" and "DOT/SAE approved"

claims, they are junk (more info below). Factory part

numbers are as follows:

Headlamp, left: 55077 025AC

Headlamp, right: 55077 024AC

Park/turn lamp, left: 55077 033AC

Park/turn lamp, right: 55077 032AC

The original park/turn lamps can be used with the new

headlamps; I've

listed the Sport type park/turn units because their

clear-lens design

matches that of the Sport headlamps. Also note that the

above numbers may

from time to time be updated or superseded as noted when you

do a part number search on chryslerpartsdirect.com or

realmopar.com - go ahead and buy whatever the latest part

number is.

-A Dodge Ram conversion wiring and relay installation

package RIK-RAM, $79

here.

The installation package includes all necessary plugs,

sockets, terminals, fused fuseholders, relays, relay

brackets, terminal blocks, etc. -- everything except actual

wire -- to install the new headlamps _and_ eliminate the

voltage drop present in the factory-type wiring. You supply

your own wire and use the parts from the kit to build up

your own wiring harness. Specific instructions are provided,

and the concept is explained at

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

.Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic

headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not

the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store.

Or, I can have my harness builder custom build you a

ready-to-install harness assembly using the same components.

Cost for this option is $161.44 (including parts and labour

- you pick _either_ the relay kit _or_ the custom-built

harness. It costs more than the chintzy and unreliable $30

to $50 Chinese prefab harnesses because it is not a Chinese

prefab harness). Either way, the in-cab switches continue

working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise

disturb any of the vehicle's original wires. And either

method will work fine on a dual-battery Ram.

-A set (two 9007 and two 9004) of ultra high efficacy bulbs.

The best 9007 bulbs presently on the market are the Philips

Xtreme Power items:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00480N16S/

or the GE Night Hawk Platinums:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G

The best 9004 bulbs presently on the market are the GE Night

Hawk Platnium 9004NHP:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G

Do not buy blue or "extra white" bulbs (Silver Star, Crystal

Vision, TruView, Hoen, PIAA, etc.); despite the heavy

advertising push and claims of "brighter and whiter" light,

they actually produce _less_ light due to the blue glass

they use.

More info on original vs. aftermarket lamps:

All of the aftermarket lamps, whether they're

original-looking or restyled, are trash. The low price is

attractive, but the quality, performance, and durability are

all substantially and dangerously inferior to the genuine

items. This goes for all the many brands of aftermarket

lamp—TYC, Genera, Depo, DJAuto, ScanTech, and many other

brands (and unbrands) of original-looking and restyled

lamps, not to mention the newest wave of trash coming in

from China under names like Helix and Sonar (projector

headlamp conversions, clear-lens conversions, angel eyes,

LED lines, etc...every bit of it dangerously badly made).

There is no optical engineering behind any of these; they

are headlamp-shaped toys made from physical copies of the

originals, which is not even close to adequate. One might as

well make a mould of your eyeglasses lenses and expect to be

able to cast new working eyeglass lenses from the mould. The

level of shape precision required to accurately focus the

beam can only be achieved with optical engineering _from

scratch_. Copies don't even begin to get in the ballpark.

Light distribution is way, way out of line with what it

should be. Usually the DOT and/or ECE safety approval or

certification marks are fraudulent or counterfeit.

"Perfect OE fit and performance" is often promised in the

ads for the copycat lamps. This is an out-and-out lie. Take

a look at

http://www.capacertified.org/press/CAPALighting3.pdf , which

is the report on a large government-sponsored test of OE vs.

TYC and Depo versions of simple, cheap American-vehicle

headlamps. Even though TYC is widely regarded as the

least-awful of a pathetic bunch, still a complete failure by

the TYC & Depo units (see page 21 and 30 if you don't have

time to read the whole report).

There is only one proper operational setup for the Sport

lamps, and that is as follows:

Low beam mode: Low beam filament of outboard 9007 bulb on,

all other filaments off.

High beam mode: High beam filament of outboard 9007 and high

beam filament of inboard 9004 on, all other filaments off.

The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used --

these lamps do not have optics to focus the light from it.

In NO case are the low beam and high beam filaments on

together! Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to

about 10 atmospheres COLD. They are not designed to handle

the heat (or the current on the common filament support

lead) of running both filaments at the same time for more

than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight

flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb

grenading inside the headlamp, destroying it (and holding

the beam selector switch to run both at the same time will

cook your wiring and switches). Some people who think

they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the "Brite

Box" people have made a business out of

this "clever" (not) modification.

Daytime running lights:

If yours is a Canadian-spec truck (either by original

manufacture or by private importation), or you're not in

Canada but have had the Daytime Running Light function

enabled, you will need to rework the daytime running lamps.

The stock DRL configuration runs the high beam circuit at

reduced duty cycle. This is not compatible with any kind of

relay installation.

http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Dodge has info. Once

you have installed the new headlamps, you need to re-enable

the DRLs.

Daytime running lights do significantly reduce your risk of

being in a crash during the daytime, and are required on all

'90 and newer vehicles in Canada. There are many ways to

implement them, each with various drawbacks and benefits. If

you want (or need) to have (or keep, after you install

headlamp relays) a daytime running light function on your

vehicle, the best (most beneficial, least detrimental)

implementation is the steady-burning operation of the front

directional signals. They produce a light distribution with

a wide view angle, are generally well located for DRL

service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle,

consume considerably less power than any headlamp-based DRL

implementation, use light sources of generally much longer

life than any headlamp bulb, do not encourage improper

nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional

lighting devices to be added. Most recent Cadillacs,

Chevrolet/GMC large vans and minivans, Corvettes since 1997

in the US and since 1990 in Canada, some Toyota and Lexus

models, certain new Lincolns and Chryslers and assorted

other vehicles use this implementation. It is steady-lit

operation of the bright amber turn signals (except when they

are flashing to signal a turn), not operation of the dim

parking lamps; parking lights are not bright enough and

don't have the right view angles to serve the daytime

running light function. Turn signal DRLs comply with US and

Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #108 and are

approved in all states, provinces, and territories. You can

easily enable this functionality in your vehicle using a

DRL-1 module ($42); see

http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/DRL/DRL1.html for

instructions and

http://www.allpar.com/fix/electrical/DRLs.html for an

example installation.

HOW TO ORDER:

Orders may be sent via e-mail to: dastern@torque.net

You may also voicemail or fax your order toll-free on

1-866-861-8668.

Please note this is a recorded orderline only. If you wish

to speak to me

in person, please use 303-835-1300.

PLEASE INDICATE:

The quantity of each item you wish

The address to which you want the items shipped, if it

differs from the

billing address

All items are warehoused in the USA. Please state the type

of shipping you

wish -- DHL, FedEx, or UPS ground shipping is standard on

shipments within

the US; all other service levels are available on request.

Shipments to

Canada go via Postal EMS unless otherwise specified. If you

have an

account with one of the carriers I use, I'll be happy to

ship on your

account; just provide the details with your order.

Please also state whether the delivery driver has permission

to leave the

parcel at your doorstep if you are not available to accept

and sign for it

in person.

CREDIT CARDS:

I accept Visa and Mastercard. Orders are processed securely

and customer

card info is not retained after processing your order.

The following information is required in order to process a

credit card

order:

Card type

Card number

Expiry date

CVV code (last group of 3 or 4 digits on back of card)

Your name as it appears on the card

Billing address

Phone number

PAYPAL:

I accept PayPal. If this is how you wish to pay, please send

your

shopping list and I will send you a PayPal invoice from

which to pay.

Please _do not attempt_ to pay by PayPal until you have

received a PayPal

invoice for your order.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Highest Regards,

Daniel Stern

Thanks, I think I will get him to send me a Paypal invoice.

Thanks, I think I will get him to send me a Paypal invoice.

your welcom.

thats what i'm working on with him right now.

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just paid for my order with him through paypal. so will see how it go's

Any news on this? I think I will get him to get his guy to build mine because my soldering skills are lacking.

Any news on this? I think I will get him to get his guy to build mine because my soldering skills are lacking.

got my package from him today. i got the $79 kit because i was low on money at the time.

he also has option for $161 all made up as well. only problem my kit did not have any instructions how to install it.

in his email he sent me a link how to install it. his diagram shows 2 relays. but the kit i got has 3 relays? so now i have to figure out how to install his kit?

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i just got my kit today from daniel stern. kit rik-ram. has anyone installed this kit on there truck yet? i need some help with it. here is the link he emailed me how to in stall it-http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html i looked at the link on how to install it. but in the diagram it shows to relays??????????? but in the kit i got it has 3 fuses and 3 relays???????????? where does the 3rd relay and fuse go???????????? i did not get any kind of instruction sheet how to install this for this type of truck?(Dodge ram)

I think I will order a made up harness tomorrow.