I was driving through town this morning, had my window down and could hear a noise like something scrapping. Just as I was about to stop I had good brake pedal but all of a sudden my pedal started to pulse for the ABS and drug the back wheel...pedal still felt good. ABS and brake light came on and stayed on until I stop and shut the truck off to go in somewhere, came back out and drove off, lights are now out ans brakes feel fine. Come to my next set of stop lights and pedal did the same, ABS and brake lights back on. After I got home, pulled the front wheels and coincidence has it that both sides in front has the dust pans rotted off and laying there scrapping as the wheel goes round. I removed both of them and while at it I took all the brakes apart, lubed the sliders and made sure the calipers worked ok. Also looked closely at the ABS lines going into the wheel hub assembly and saw no chaffing or cuts in the wires anywhere.I pulled a P0500 from the odometer which is the no vehicle speed sensor signal but before I go to far into it I wanted to ask if this code could cause this affect? Speedometer working flawlessly...everythign else appers to be working fine. As for now I just hauled the ABS fuse out and brakes are working fine.

Ohm meter the ABS sensors make sure the wire aren't internal broken I've here and done this before and had a ABS sensor lead break internally. If replacing you MUST replace in pairs you can't replace one sensor alone in the front axle.

ok, so the speed sensor in the rear housing would not cause this issue then? Also, unless there's a way I don't see, if I end up replacing sensors in front that means two new wheel bearing assemblies ?

Rock auto has just the wires and sensors. It showed only 2 left. $43 apiece. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2426764&cc=1440064

Thanks Dripley. Last time I changed out a hub assmebley I looked at the wires...I didn't think I could change them on my hubs. I unbolted the screw on it but the wire seemed to be lodged in the hub that it couldn't or wasn't suppose to be able to be replaced without doing the hub Then again, I didn't go pulling at it to hard so maybe it does:think:

You are welcome Dobienut. I never tried taking either of mine out. Had to replace both front hub bearing assemblies a while back and ended up with new ones with the bearings.

Problem fixed. Was the front right line going to the hub. Wasn't difficult at all to switch out either, just took my time and sprayed penetrating fluid around it to make it pull out easier.