For Sale - 2006 Dodge Ram 2500- Flatbed for long box bed Winch bumper Flat Bed for Long Box 3rd generation Cummins Tootlbox are included with key I have a flatbed for 3rd Generation dodge Cummins. This flatbed comes with a gooseneck hitch already in the bed. The winch bumper is part of the set. Tootlbox have a key to lock and unlock all box a single key. There is rust starting and electrical will have to be sorted out on your own.
-
Price: $1,000.00
-
Location: New Meadows, Idaho
I looked thru all the bypass threads and found some nice places to mount it, but either the EaBP-110 was too long, I don't have a aftermarket intake, or I have the OEM Jake. So I went with where my dad mounted his, on the pass frame rail. Looking at my dads it was great, but he only had a skid across the bottom, and I really wanted the leading edge covered, so I made a cardboard example last weekend and took it to the local machine shop, 4 days and $40 later I had a skid. I wanted 3/16 alum, but they were out so he used 1/4"... talk about beefy.
As far as the bypass kit itself I did the pricing on getting the BMK-11, or just the mount and getting the fittings and hoses locally... I saved about $30 getting it all locally, so all I ordered from amsoil was the mount and the oil cap adapter. So on friday I stopped by the parker store and got 10' of hose for measuring. I then held the skidplate to the frame and drilled and tapped the holes for the skid.
I then bolted it up, loosely, and figured out where to put the filter mount. Once I had that marked I removed the skid and drilled the first hole. I then printed the BMK-11 instructions with a 1:1 scale of the mounting holes, cut the center hole out and bolted it to the hole I had drilled and tapped. I then center punched the second hole, drilled and tapped it. Cut the next hole from the template out and center punched the 3rd hole, drilled and tapped... I mocked it all up and made sure everything fit, which it did (after a little filing, my center punch must have walked a little.).. Time to mock the hoses up, so I ran the hose from the mount to the engine oil filter housing (where there is a 1/8 port on top.. makes it REALLY easy), and marked the hose. I moved the hose to the oil filter cap and did the same, then uninstalled everything.... Now I wait for Monday...
Fast Fwd to this morning, I get up and go to the parker store, get some fittings, do some pre-coffee math (it actually worked) and told him what lengths to cut the hose, and crimp the ends... And back to the house... I bolted the mount to the frame, put the fitting in the oil cap, screwed that in place, and put the fitting in the oil filter housing. I used 1/8" NPT to -4 female JIC everywhere. I then ran the hoses (where I found that math can be done pre-coffee) and tightened them all down. I then zip tied the hoses clear of the exhaust and suspension, added 1.5 qts of oil and fired it up. The filter was dry, because of the horizontal attitude I couldn't pre fill it. It took about 20 seconds with the engine idling to fill the filter, and oil came out the cap... I let it run for another minute, and shut it off. While I waited for the oil to drain I checked for leaks and bolted the skid plate up, no leaks and it all fit great... I checked the oil, added another .5 qt (Now about 13-14 qts in the system) and went for a test drive to get oil pressure up. No leaks, and my engine will be much happier....
I added a "T" here so I can put a oil psi sender in down the road, thanks to the OEM idiot gauge.
Just the right amount of clearance