While there are two decent filter choices for the OE filter canister on the 3rd gen (OEM and Baldwin) I wanted better filtration. Bosch would like to see 5 micron filtration on the CP3 and injectors and Dodge only supplies 7. The Baldwin PF7977 is 5 microns, but I still wanted more.

After hours of research online and with filter manufactures I decided on adding 2 additional filters to my system. I added a Baldwin BF1212 on between the tank and the OE filter bowl and a Cat 1R-0750 between the OE filter bowl and the CP3.

Why these filters.

The BF1212 is a 20 micron absolute (97.88% actually, so not quite absolute), 4 micron nominal filter that has fuel/water separation ratings of 97%-99% efficient for removing free water and 92%-95% efficient for removing emulsified water. It is the cross reference for the Fleetguard FS1212 (20 microns at 95%, 10 microns at 79% and 90% for both free and emulsified water removal), but is cheaper and offers slightly better initial filtration. This is my first filter and is more than adequate for initial filtering and f/w separation.

The Cat 1R-0750 is a 2 micron absolute (old data) or 4 microns absolute (new data) final fuel filter. It is rated the best in its size/series of any of the like filters. (Fleetguard FS5320 is 5 microns absolute (old data), and the Baldwin BF7633 is 7 microns absolute (old data)).. The old vs new data is simply a change in measuring filter efficiency. According to the new test standard 4 microns is a good of a measurement as you can obtain, thou nothing is physically different on the 1R-0750.. so I say it’s a 2 micron filter as most people are familiar with that style of reporting. The Donaldson P551313 is also rated at 2 micron absolute, but the Cat is easier for me to obtain.

Mounting:

Both filters are mounted on Baldwin FB1311 filter bases. The BF1212 is mounted to a piece of steel that uses longer driver’s seat bolts and one time use nuts. To tap into the OE steel fuel line I used 3/8 compression fittings and 3/8 push-lok hose.

To mount the Cat 1R-0750 I used the GDP MK2+ Big Line Kit as the starting point. I ordered the kit without the filter base, filter, and fuel pressure sender “T”. The GDP kit was complete and easy to install.

At the same time I also replaced the banjo on the inlet side of the OE filter bowl with a high-flow banjo from GDP. All my fittings are now high flow.

Baldwin PF7977: In the stock fuel canister I am running the Baldwin PF7977. This filter is rated at 5 microns absolute and 1-2 microns nominal. It also has fuel/water separation ratings of 97%-99% efficient for removing free water and 92%-95% efficient for removing emulsified water.

Pressure:

Because I am now running 3 filters on the stock in-tank LP I wanted to get a gauge on my setup to ensure I am not starving the CP3 of fuel. I installed a Pricol 0-30 psi electric gauge between the OE canister and the CP3. At idle I see 9 psi. (From what I gather most folks running a stock setup see ~11psi at idle). I attribute the 2 psi loss to two things, one there is some increases restriction from the filters but I feel the largest drop comes from the big line kit and hi-flow banjos. Because the elec fuel pump always has the same flow, based on constant voltage, and that pressure is directly related to flow/resistance I think the decreased resistance from the big line kit and hi-flow banjos has dropped the pressure, thou the flow is the same. Off idle I have yet to see below 5psi of pressure, thou I don’t run lots of hp and haven’t towed with the setup yet. But for my needs I have adequate fuel pressure, thou I will upgrade when/if the OE LP fails.

If you need more flow I recommend the setup like I have with a AD Raptor 100 plumbed between the BF1212 and the OE canister. The BF1212 is actually a vacuum filter and will act as a good pre-screen for the LP, and will catch any water before the LP emulsifies it. This setup could be used with the stock 3/8 line for stock-mild hp, or with ½” line and a larger LP for high HP.

Personally I don’t recommend deleting the OE filter bowl. 2 reasons. 1 is the WIF sensor (yes I know its mediocre at best, but it’s better than nothing) and 2 is the fuel heater. 2 microns is a tight filter, so I like to know that the heater is there.

Photos:

BF1212 mounted just behind the xcase above the xcase skid plate.

3/8 Compression fitting

GDP MK 2+ Big Line kit with the Cat 1R-0750 and Baldwin FB1311 base.

Hi-flow fittings in the OE canister and CP3

Final Install of 1R-0750

“T” for fuel psi sender

0-30 psi Pricol fuel gauge

How it sits now on the GDP PFI Horn.

I can't thank you enough for all your hours of research and great write-ups. I followed your lead when re-designing my fuel system last year and added the Cat 2 micron filter. I'm running a Fleetguard FS1212 just because it was easier to get locally but I'm going to use the Baldwin F/S when it gets changed. I'm hoping the better filtration will help add to the VP44 lifespan.

Are you feeding that with 2 Walbro's? Looks good!

Thanks....I have two 392's installed but I only run one at a time which is plenty with the few mods I have. I wired them separately so I can choose which is running. The second pump is just for redundancy. I ordered Wix filter bases and when I saw they had two inputs and outputs I figured I might as well plumb in my backup pump. Not that swapping out Walbro's isn't a 5 minute job, but with my luck I would have to replace it on the side of a highway in a snow storm.:banghead: Ed

This is a great write up! I'm in the process of building my set up as well. It's nice to have a buddy that works in a Cat store.

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fuel-filter/addon-filter.htm

Just wondering how the Donaldson P550800 rates vs. the Baldwin PF7977 for the stock canister location?

Just wondering how the Donaldson P550800 rates vs. the Baldwin PF7977 for the stock canister location?

Well I just did some more searching and answered my own question. the Donaldson is 7mμ vs. 5mμ for the Baldwin......

Did anyone changed out the banjo fitting that feeds the stock fuel filter housing? Is it necessary? I have a bored out banjo bolt from gene's garage that I bought for the 98. If it's not necessary, then I'd just leave it alone.Eugene

Did anyone changed out the banjo fitting that feeds the stock fuel filter housing? Is it necessary? I have a bored out banjo bolt from gene's garage that I bought for the 98. If it's not necessary, then I'd just leave it alone. Eugene

I replaced mine. I didn't have a psi gauge until after the mod, but lower restriction is better in my book.

I replaced mine. I didn't have a psi gauge until after the mod, but lower restriction is better in my book.

Great. I'll replace it. Thank you. Eugene

Well it's on and what a PITA. Cat filter w/ base. This is not the kits the vendors sell w/ baldwin base. I was going to get the vendor kit but I couldn't return this one because I scratch up the filter trying to remove it. I can't remember what this model number is but it's ports was really small. I decided to drill it out to 1/4". Got the rest of the fitting and hose from Vulcan. I then had to fab up a bracket which is a 1/4". This filter is suppose to be the new 2 micron filter but when I cycle the fuel pump, it almost filled up a liter bottle. Is this right? I would think it's would be less. That fuel pump is strong. I also replace the banjo bolt to the filter housing to a bore out one from geno's garage. So here some pix.

edit: Filter/base is CAT 308-7480.

Eugene

A new filter shouln't effect flow at all, so yeah that sounds normal. In fact when my filters are new my gauge moves a lot for the first 1K or so miles, then it calms down. Yes that's supposed to be the new "2 um" filter, but I have yet to see anything at all from cat about its ratings. All I know is that its only spec'd for 1 engine, a C4.4 which is rated at a max of 150hp. Becuase its such a specialized filter no one makes a cross for it, and thus makes it real hard to get data on.Where the 1R-0750 is for engines at least 10.4L. Not saying the UHE is a bad filter, just don't know enough about it.

Where the 1R-0750 is for engines at least 10.4L. Not saying the UHE is a bad filter, just don't know enough about it.

That's what I'm kinda worried about. I do like that it's shorter but I'm not sure on how well it will work. The gauge is stead at 8-9psi at idle so I'm crossing my finger it will supply enough fuel. I hope I don't do anything bad to the motor trying to save a few bucks. Your posts on cf.com had been very helpful. Thanks, Eugene

Well I did a little modification to my fuel filter setup yesterday.

I have been wanting a fuel heater for the f/w sep under the truck, as well as a WIF sensor. The OEM Severe Duty Filtration kit always looked like a good idea, but it was way too much $$. But recently I found one at a reasonable rate and picked it up.

I didn't plumb it how Dodge intended. They have the fuel lines that tie into the lines at the filter housing, then plumb back to the transfer case area, get filtered, and plumb back to the stock canister. Well that seems like a lot of unneeded hose, in addition I already have cut my OE line by the transfer case.

So I picked up the banjo to push-lok fittings and hi-flow banjo's locally. I also had to turn the heater around so that the in was on the right and the out on the left for better alignment of the hose to fuel line connections.

Then I ran the wiring. The main reason I wanted the OEM kit was the integrated wiring harness for the heater and WIF sensor. I mounted the relay on the back of the driver side battery tray, and hooked up the + and - connections. The wire that turns the relay on needs to be spliced into the power wire for the OE heater. This was the only part of the kit I thought was half-assesd. Everything else has nice weatherproof connections, why they didn't just add a pigtail connector to the OE heater plug I don't know. But its all installed now.

I was concerned about the sensor hanging down, but its above the transfer case skid plate and won't be an issue.

The WIF sensor needs to be replaced with the one in the kit, it must be a different OHM setup. The the OE pigtail plugs into the SDF harness. I haven't done this part yet as I am waiting for a tune from MADS to turn on the B20 WIF sensor option in the ECM. (I had Dodge turn it on last week, but the Smarty programing turns it off, but they are sending me a tune shortly).

I haven't driven it yet to report on the fuel pressure, and its cold out so I am not sure if the ~1 psi lower was due to cold fuel, the moved sensor, or the increased resistance of banjo's vs -an, or the resistance thru an additional heater.

I also took the time to redo all the hoses with the blue parker hoses. They still aren't bio-diesel compatible, but they should be fine for occasional B5 or B20 use. I also moved the fuel pressure sensor. Originally I had it plumbed to that my "T" for the sender was also a 90* fitting for the hose, now its plumbed so the sender is the "T" portion.

Before I hooked up the hose to the CP3 I ran a bunch of fuel thru it to clean anything out. I was surprised how much fuel the pump actually moves at no load. I was getting about 30oz of fuel in less than 10 seconds, which works out to be 90GPH. That is a lot more fuel than I thought the OEM pump pushed and that just could be due to no load and the internal bypass isn't bypassing due to no pressure.

The specs on the filter are, 25um absolute, 15um @ 83%, 95% free and 95% emulsified water removal, 30gr dirt holding, and 63.4 GPH. The filter is a FS19823, and Dodge sells it for $202. Cummins carries it for $37 but no one stocks it and I have been told a case min for an order. The FS19732 has the exact same specs, both are stratapore media but is .39" shorter. Its a common filter and is stocked by my local Cummins, so I will be using that one for my changes. The filters are rated slightly less than the BF1212, but as its the pre-filter I am not concerned in the least.