Driving home tonight then same old demon came back again. At 50-60 mph t/c started locking and unlocking. This thing is giving me a run for my money. My alternator is within spec, all grounds have been checked, cleaned, and had dielectric grease applied. Just to waste time and money I relocated the alternator ground cable away from the alternator across the radiator. Also I blew the 25.00 on the BD Apps noise isolator. I don't know what else to do now. Is there anything else that can cause this problem?, Anything!

I agree.... this Star Trek thing of going into the future by way of using computers on our engines sucks. I think it's a stupid fad with no benefit and only confuses diagnostics. Sorry for the rant... just the way I see it

 

Imagine my old 1957 chevy with just the usual nuts and bolts and only an engine under the hood  . Who'd ever want that?

 

 

Makes me wonder....... will we eventually get to where we have politically correct computers?

 

When you can no longer pull up next to a Ford truck and offend the owner because you got a Cummins? You know, like the computer systems will make everything evenly reliable or unreliable? I guess your opinion will depend on whether you've owned a 12 valve in the past.

 

I know.... a bit ridiculous perhaps but, look at how they caused diesel prices to be more inline with the gasser guys fuel cost.

 

 

Sorry... way off topic here.

Edited October 11, 201410 yr by JAG1

Sometimes you got to diagnose things on the fly. Like I'm suggesting to another Dodge owner to hook a fuse line to the alternator BATT post and bring it in the cab. Then hook up your digital meter and watch the AC noise level in flight and see if the noise comes and goes like the transmission does.

Sometimes you got to diagnose things on the fly. Like I'm suggesting to another Dodge owner to hook a fuse line to the alternator BATT post and bring it in the cab. Then hook up your digital meter and watch the AC noise level in flight and see if the noise comes and goes like the transmission does.

Good tip. I'll give it a shot. But if its still going in and out with the alternator fuse removed doesn't that eliminate the alternator altogether?

even if the  alternator is  'disconnected'..  (output)   isn't the field still excited?       Just curious if  any  'noise' could  make it back though there.  

 

I have  a  old  JD   propane tractor  and  I couldn't get within  5 feet of the thing with a  digital multimeter...    it  was going crazy  before I even hooked it up. engine running.    (make me wonder  how I still have hair, all the hours  riding that thing)   Still not sure if it was my   plug wires or  the alternator  itself  causing   such  a  radio   interference...   They  both got changed on the same day.   Probably the  plug wires.

That's why I always suggest pulling both the field leads (green and blue wires) and the alternator fuse because now both circuits are completely dead.