I have the Haines manual and the downloaded factory service manual for this 1999 Ram 3500.

 

The two publications contradict each other on the setting of the nut for the rear wheel bearings.

the factory manual states to back off the nut 1/8 of a turn after torquing to 120-140 ft lbs and the Haines manual says to back off 1/3 of a turn.

 

I went with the factory manual and backed off 1/8 of a turn.  One hub runs warmer that the other.

 

Any advice.

 

Thanks

Sounds like the one hub is a touch tight. The way I do it is tighten the nut while spinning the hub until it gets quite snug and the hub is hard to turn. Then I back off the nut without turning the hub until it is loose. Then I tighten it up by hand. Spin the hub and check for any play. If no play you are good to go. If you feel some play tighten the nut with your fingers until the play is gone.

Thanks. I'll give that a try.

Thanks. I'll give that a try.

If I remember right on dana m80 nut and small metal retainer that pounds in to keep it from turning. 150 ft/lb while turning hub, then back of 1/4 turn. Sadler power train told me that. They built a lot of axles trannys etc. I did it 2 years ago with no problems.

I have the Haines manual and the downloaded factory service manual for this 1999 Ram 3500.

 

The two publications contradict each other on the setting of the nut for the rear wheel bearings.

the factory manual states to back off the nut 1/8 of a turn after torquing to 120-140 ft lbs and the Haines manual says to back off 1/3 of a turn.

 

I went with the factory manual and backed off 1/8 of a turn.  One hub runs warmer that the other.

 

Any advice.

 

Thanks

the hub on the curb side will always run warmer. As does the tire and wheel. More load on the lower side.  Use new self locking nut. Torque to 150# and back off 1/4 turn. Drive in the keyway lock.