thank you for looking, this is my first post after joining this forum.  I have owned this CTD for a few months after purchasing it from a private seller and is my first diesel.  

my problems currently have started with loaning the truck to my younger brother to take to school.  He left the lights on all day and came back to a dead truck.  I believe while having jumper cables hooked up he was able to crank it over but had no start.  it is cold but i filled with winter blend the night before, no gauges installed yet but i have a FASS titanium.  my brother determined the alternator was bad (not sure how),  it was bench tested as 'good' from O' Rileys although they do not test for AC interference.  the most intriguing information i can relay is that my scan gauge2 volt reading shows 11.8 when the dash meter shows nothing as the truck is running. the SC2 readout does not fluctuate.  other pertinent information is that i recently had my auto trans swapped and batteries tested, i got the truck back with codes 113, 380, 382.  the relays may be stuck, the 140 amp alt. fuse may be blown.  it is frustrating as i am not able to get to the truck to do any diagnostics of my own like take grid heaters out of the loop or run a multimeter around it. the truck is a 2002 24v. where does the SC2 get its information from?  any suggestions on what to try would be much appreciated. 

Maybe blown fuse, or batteries are to dead to start, if you jumped it wrong way chances are blown racktifire. Really need gauges to see what's going on. It's 02 do a key trick for reading codes.

the codes that are most recent are the 380, 382 and 113 which i understand to indicate the grid heater staying on.  when i get the truck back i should have everything i need to install the ISSpro gauges. like i mentioned all i know from the incident is what im being told, not first person.  i have been to the OBDII section of this site and have found it very helpful. codes preceding to the problem were 562, 1693, 215, 230, and 1689.  these codes could have been all been set from the low batteries.  

You can do a lot of testing with a test light. You can check your 140A fuse to see if in fact it is bad. Once the truck is running the grid heaters will continue to cycle on and off until they have been running for 5 minutes OR until the truck gets to 20 MPH. You can either test the studs at the heaters or you can pull a small wire off each of the solenoids on the left inner fender to see if they are going to drop out. Do you know of anyone with a code scanner that can clear the codes to eliminate the dead batteries as the cause of them?