soo got the fuel problem fixed i figure , now onto the rest of the problems lol . first is the clutch and or the slave or the master that controls the clutch . i find that my clutch pedel goes half way down and then gets stiff and starts operating the clutch , i have to push it soo hard into the floor just to get it into gear and that sucks! and is hard on the syncros ! soo is this air in the system ?? or can i adjust the clutch ? what are my options here fellas ? next is the e brake light , wont turn off no matter what , checked the e brake switch and it works fine , i also un plugged my porportioning valve sensor and it was still on , soo what else is ther too look for??

As for the clutch there is no adjustment. as for the stiffness feeling I would say it time to pull the transmission down and take a peek there could be several issues like a bad pressure plate, throwout bearing problems, etc. Now is the BRAKE light flashing or solid? Solid is a porportioning valve issue.Flashing is a E brake pedal problem.

well i didnt pull the tranny but pretty sure its the clutch thats worn out BUT what i did find out is mt slave and master are working properly its my clutch thats worn out so what i did for more peddle stroke is made a longer little nubbin thing on the end of my slave cylinder . i made it a 1/4 inch longer then the stock one and used a screwdriver handle and a lathe to make it the right size and shape . when i installed it my peddle was back to the top and feels like a new clutch again and i can go in and out of gear awesome! . the only bad part is i wonder how much clutch i have left haha , and what problems might come of this farmer fix lol

i could not find where it said how many miles you had...but recently for me(@ 165k) it was extremely hard to shift gears and it felt like i was putting the pedal thru the floor(even after i moved the mats)! the clutch has NEVER slipped so i figured it was hydraulics. i followed mopar1973man's instructions(found here:http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/clutch-hyd/clutch-hyd.htm) and it worked flawlessly! i almost killed it backing out of the driveway for test run(cause the pedal was so high!). sadly the pedal is working its way down over the months, but i believe its a leaky master. it has bought me time at least.

yeah same thing i had! but my master and slave werent leaking or down on fluid and working good so i assumed it was the clutch wearing out lol . so yeah all i did was make that peice and install it on the end of the push rod of my slave and that put my peddle right at the top , no slipping and working great so far

My master cylinder was leaking internally bleeding pressure off back to the resivoir causing the clutch to re-engage at will... I never had a leak outwards to cause loss of fluid but the seals wore out internally and allow for the pressure to bleed off...

My master cylinder was leaking internally bleeding pressure off back to the resivoir causing the clutch to re-engage at will... I never had a leak outwards to cause loss of fluid but the seals wore out internally and allow for the pressure to bleed off...

exactly. i found trace amounts of fluid on the pedal linkage when i pulled the whole thing out...but its an internal leak. the pedal isn't to the floor yet

I'm running into a related problem here. Let me know what you all think:Saturday night on the way to the rodeo:thumb1:, I pulled into the parking lot, waiting in line to pay to park the truck. I had it in 1st as we were crawling along, and I get past the $$ taker, go to shift out of 1st into 2nd, the clutch pedal is on the floor, and I can't get the truck to come out of first. I had to pull pretty hard to even get it into neutral. A couple more depressions of the clutch pedal and I could feel the pressure in the pedal start to build, but noticed that on the first depression, the pedal didn't have any resistance until about half stroke. Since that day, I've noticed that the clutch starts to engage sooner upon letting the pedal out. Also, I have to press the clutch pedal two or three times until I feel pressure in the pedal, and am comfortable to shift into gear. I looked under the truck the morning after the rodeo and saw no leaking fluids, and my reservoir is full. I have not driven the truck to work the past couple days for fear of not being able to get it in or out of gear in the stop and go traffic on the way home. I've read up a bit on the issue in a couple forums, and it sounds like a leaky master or slave cylinder? Does that sound accurate? If it's air in the lines, that means it's leaking anyways, correct?...and one or both need to be replaced (to FIX the problem)?There is 105K miles on the truck. It's a 2002 QCSB 4x4 with the 6 spd. Thanks in advance for the help!!

MY 2002 QCSB 4x4 RAM LOST MASTER/SLAVE COMBO AT 61,000 MILES, WOULD STOP TRUCK AT DRIVE THRU ,ETC HANG IN 1ST GEAR AS MASTER/SLAVE CYLINDERS WOULD NOT HOLD PRESSURE. REPLACED

WITH WAGNER PART LISTED BELOW FROM ROCK-AUTO.COM 3 YEARS AGO BEEN PERFORMING GOOD SO FAR.

2002 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 5.9L 359cid L6 DIESEL FI Turbo © OHV : Clutch : Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder AssemblyPriceCoreTotalRHINOPAC Part # PS0517

Base; Cummins engine; Includes Master Cylinder, Line & Slave Cylinder$177.79$0.00$177.79

WAGNER Part # CM140981 {Clutch Mstr/Slave Assy. {Reservoir, Clutch Master, Clutch Plate, Hose}}

CM 18mm Dia. Bore; SC 20mm Dia. Bore* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 3 business days$168.79$0.00$168.79

SACHS Part # SPH025

6 speed trans.; Standard

5 speed trans.; Standard* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days$204.79$0.00$

Thanks for the link! I'll check it out. I'm sure I'll be buying a unit soon...I drove the truck shortly tonight to check the symptoms again, and sure enough, it's still there with no fluid leaking at the dash/firewall or under the truck, and a full reservoir.