Truck due for a smog, so I pulled the programmer out (quick plug in under hood Edge). Runs fine (with a lot less power), no problem codes through odometer check, and no dash lights. When the key is turned on, the systems does the standard dash light check, truck starts, and all lights go out like normal. I have no reason to believe there is any issue at this point. Wife takes truck the to smog shop, they won't run it because it will fail. They plug in an ODB quick check tool and it says my "Check Engine Light"  is on. Tried disconnecting the batteries for more than an hour, no help. Borrowed a friend scanner tool, it truly show a MIL issue, but no codes of any type are found.

 

Anyone else ever had an issue like this? Until I get the MIL issues resolved, I can't pass the smog, and my tags have expired (but payed for).

 

Quick thoughts:

 - should I reconnect the programmer and see if the MIL goes away?

 - can I pass the emissions test w/ the programmer in, if MIL clears with it, maybe a low setting?

 

For reference;

ODBII tool used:  "Cen-Tech Deluxe OBDII & CAN Scan Tool"

OBDII is the current standard.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics

OBDII is the current standard.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics

 

 

Thank you, Mike!!

UPDATE?????    

No update yet, and no change, I haven't had time to make the dealership yet. I'm worried I get the ECM flashed and the issue returns, but with no codes why would it?

 

I do have 2 things I failed to mention, wasn't really thinking of them, maybe some insight on these will provide some answers both ways

1st: the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) has started acting up, seen "reverse" light up at 70 on the freeway, but no codes.

2nd: I have seen the "check Engine light flash on/off (just one time, not flashing), does this every now and then. Never kicks a codes and goes out so fast took a while to figure out which light was doing it. Forgot to mention because the wife had to remind me it was even happening.

 

Any thoughts on these? I do pick up a new TRS on my way home today, so that will be resolved quickly, but been this way for about a month.

TRS changed, but no drive time and haven't checked to see if MIL cleared, I will check that tonight.

 

Any thoughts on why the MIL may flash on/off that fast just the once (maybe once a week or or so), but not kick any codes?

 

On a side not: if your oval around your gear choice stops reading or reading accurately, change out the TRS (32-35 bucks, and 2 T-20 screws). But you'll need a pan for the tranny fluid that comes out. And I learned last night, It comes out fast and a lot more than I expected (my face is glad it was only warm).

Update:

Never got anywhere before I went on Vacation and put 1765 miles on my truck while pulling. When I returned, I was hoping a new scan would show an all clear, that's a lot of miles form the system to clear itself. Instead, I finally got something to work with.

 

Note: The Programmer is still in, it is the Edge EZD1000C

 

Stored Codes: None

Pending codes: P0514 (device says: "Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance")

Freeze Frames: DTCFRZF P0483 (device says: "DTCFRZF Menu", DTC that caused required Freeze Frame data storage)

DTC Guide says:

Faulty Intake air temperature sensor

Faulty Battery temperature sensor 

Vehicle has recently used a block heater (this is not true, but it was running the fuel heater when the scanner was running)

Update:

Never got anywhere before I went on Vacation and put 1765 miles on my truck while pulling. When I returned, I was hoping a new scan would show an all clear, that's a lot of miles form the system to clear itself. Instead, I finally got something to work with.

 

Note: The Programmer is still in, it is the Edge EZD1000C

 

Stored Codes: None

Pending codes: P0514 (device says: "Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance")

Freeze Frames: DTCFRZF P0483 (device says: "DTCFRZF Menu", DTC that caused required Freeze Frame data storage)

DTC Guide says:

Faulty Intake air temperature sensor

Faulty Battery temperature sensor 

Vehicle has recently used a block heater (this is not true, but it was running the fuel heater when the scanner was running)

 

 

If I were you, I'd start checking all your "grounds.  There's a bunch around both batteries grounded to the fenders.  There's the main power lead to the fuse panel you could check. Check AC current off you alternator.  There are a couple grounds that go to the frame.   This is weird!!!

I would use the Edge feature to clear codes, even if none are present. Every scanner I have used will try to clear codes even if there are none; however, many cheap scanners cannot properly clear codes on a Dodge of that era. The Dodge uses non-standard clearing procedures from what I hear. 

 

Once that is done I would see what it says. 

This model of Edge is the under hood, plug-n-play type. I have to remove a cover and change the jumpers manually to change the program. I have the manual but do not believe there is a way to clear with this Edge model. 

What model edge?

Edge EZD1000C

Edge EZD1000C

 

 

YUCK!!

 

It's a pressure box, and those aren't looked upon very kindly much anymore. Initially they were an easy way to make power, but they are much harder on injectors and due to that their popularity has decreased. 

 

To completely rule it out I would disconnect the batteries, remove the Egde at every connection, reconnect OEM sensors, then reconnect the batteries. Drive it for a few heat cycles and see where you are at. 

 

Have you done the key on-off trick the check for codes that way?

You might have to unplug something like a coolant temp sensor and trip a hard fault that triggers a error and then the Edge module will reset properly. Like my 02 does the same thing like P0500 code is not reset-able but trip a hard code like temp sensor and now you can.

I had already removed the Edge at one point in the beginning, it altered nothing, same issue. 

 

I did run by Performance Diesel, a local shop that is well known. I asked them if they have ever heard of this and if they can fix it. The guy laughed, said yes he's heard of it, and my only option to clear it is the dealer. Dodge/Chrysler does not like to share their software, and it's needed to clear this issue.

 

I'll report back as soon as I can get it in. Hopefully they can tell me "why" it happened, and what they do to clear it.

I would remove every bit of the edge from the truck before going to the dealer. The dealer is going to have to re-install your software most likely, as a 2nd to last ditch effort. 

 

The reason I say to remove the Edge again is that it could possibly be the culprit, and complete removal is the best way to work on it. If nothing else take it 100% out of the equation. 

 

While it's out I would sell it and buy a Smarty. 

How would the EZ be keeping the MIL light from coming on???

 

When I ran the Juice w/Attitude, the way it was connected......................I just don't see how.

The Edge products alter the signal, and stray signals do funny things to ECM's. 

 

There are plenty of issues with Edge plug in products, even thou they don't alter the ECM. It's one of the big reason they lose popularity quickly. 

Hey Guys, sorry for the long delay in updates.

 

So I took my truck to the dealership, they ran all the basics and would listen to nothing I had to say about what I'd done so far. Then after about 2 1/2 hours (and removing/testing my check Engine light and cluster), came back and said this makes no since, they were baffled. They said they have no "newer" code for my truck and cannot simply flash the ECM with out newer code than what I am currently running. Another hour later, they come back again and say the have code that's not for my truck but they believe it will work. They flashed it, and still the MIL status ON is showing. According to them, this is normal and I will have to complete a drive cycle to clear it now (I call BS). What ever they saw in "In-Sight", they said has cleared.

 

So now I do have a code kicking, and may be the issue from the beginning, but I'm unsure.

Code P0234, "Turbo/Supercharger Over charge". So now I'm thinking I need to replace my waste gate?

 

Any idea here would be greatly appreciated, and maybe the how to if someone's done it before.

 

Oh yea, I removed the Edge programmer and have not re-installed it, nor do I plan to (AH64ID scared my with motor melt down).

Anyone selling a Smarty cheap, and which Smarty's best for an 03'?

 

2003 Dodge Ram

non-CA model

3rd Gen 5.9

Banks Cold Air intake

What did they flash it with??

 

How much boost are you making?

The flash... I have no idea which scares me. I think I'll see about getting it re-flashed with the right code once I have it passed the smog issue. 

 

As far as the boost, I don't have a gauge to monitor it. I'm assuming either the sensor is bad throwing a false high pressure reading, or the waste-gate isn't operating as it should. Is there a simple way to check the Boost pressure. I can run the ODBII scanner live, what setting/sensor am I looking at (if this is know), and what should it be?

 

2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4

3rd Gen 5.9 (non-CA model)

Banks Cold Air intake