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Mopar1973Man

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  1. Mopar1973Man posted a gallery image in Titanium
  2. Mopar1973Man posted a gallery image in Titanium
  3. Mopar1973Man posted a gallery image in Titanium
  4. Mopar1973Man posted a gallery image in Titanium
  5. Mopar1973Man posted a gallery image in Titanium
  6. Mopar1973Man posted a gallery image in Titanium
  7. Mopar1973Man posted a gallery image in Titanium
  8. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Fuel
    Removal of all 6 injectors1. Disconnect both negative battery cables from both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of the negative cables. This is just done for pure safety for you and the electrical system. 2. Remove the decorative cover (10 mm) breather tubes hooked to the valve cover. 3. Remove the valve cover. There are six 10mm bolts holding the valve cover in place. 4. Remove all the 8mm nutted electrical connections on top of all injectors and unplug the 3 electrical connectors on the driver side of the lower valve cover. 5. Remove the lower half of the valve cover which has seven 10mm bolts. Be aware there is one at the very front edge and very rear edge. 6. Remove all 6 exhaust rockers. Make sure to lay them out in the exact order you removed them from the engine. Have a small table covered with rags and set the table beside the truck and from front to rear lay the rockers out in that order. 7. Remove the intake horn. There is one 10mm bolt holding the dipstick tube, then 11m (7/16) socket loosen the intake boot clamp. Then there are four 10mm bolts holding the intake tube to the intake manifold and grid heater. lay them over to the driver's side out of the way. 8. Remove all 6 injector lines from the rail to the head. There are 10mm bolts holding some of the lines are bolted to the intake cover plate. Using a 3/4 inch wrench you'll loosen both ends and remove each line. Again, lay them out in the exact order next to each cylinder rocker arm in order. 9. You'll need a 24mm open-end wrench or boxed end that is thin. Remove each connector tube nut. Using a flat-blade screwdriver and carefully pry each tube from the cylinder head. Suggested to lay each connecting tube next to each cylinder rocker arm for inspection. 10. Remove all twelve 8mm bolts holding the injectors in place. 11. Using a flat-blade screwdriver and place the tip under the hold-down collar of each injector and either twist the screwdriver to lift the injector out or lever off a head bolt and lift each injector out. Suggested to lay out each injector next to its cylinders rocker arm for inspection. WARNING: Do not attempt to replace just one injector that is damaged. Injectors should be replaced in complete sets. NOTE: I also highly suggest that you do not replace with Bosch stock injectors, Bosch stock injectors are not flow match or pop tested before sale. This means you do not have a matching set for your truck and injector failure rate is much higher on unmatched injectors. You should buy a set of injectors that have been popped-tested and flow match for your application. WARNING: There are differences in injectors between early and late 3rd Generation trucks do not exchange early and late injectors engine damage will occur. NOTE: If your truck happens to be an automatic transmission be aware that the added power of injectors might make the transmission slip. This depends on the final ratio of the truck to the ground and oversize tires will impact this issue. InspectionTo inspect the injector you will need to clean off all the fuel and oil off the injectors. Brake clean and rag should suffice. 1. Look for burrs or wear on the injector inlet. 2. Check nozzle holes for hole erosion or plugging. You will need a magnifying glass to really see the nozzle. 3. Inspect end of injector nozzle for mechanical damage. 4. Look for cracks at injector nozzle end. 5. If any of these conditions occur, have the entire set of injectors rebuilt. InstallingMost injectors are rebuilt these days there are a few companies that do sell new flow match injectors like Big Bang Injectors (BBI). 1. Unpackage all 6 injectors and verify that the copper shims are included on the nozzle. If not you will need to install the copper shims. If the shim slide on easily you will need a small dab of axle-bearing grease to hold the shim in place during installing. A new copper shim with correct thickness must always be re-installed after removing injector. Measure thick- ness of injector shim. Shim Thickness: 1.5 mm (.060”) 2. Thoroughly clean fuel injector cylinder head bore making sure there are no debris or old copper shims in the bottom of the bores. You can use a shot of brake clean and a rag to wipe out the holes. 3. Most injector suppliers typically already have the o-rings on the body of the injector. If not make sure to install that o-ring at this time and lightly lube the o-ring with clean engine oil. 4. Install the new injector. Pay attention to the location of the inlet port on the side of the injector and it should face the intake manifold in line where the crossover tube goes. Push down the injector hold down collar and seat the injector completely into the bore. 5. On each injector you want to tighten the two 8mm bolt alternately till 44 inch/pounds. This just insures the injector is fully seated in the bore. I typically back off this torque to allow the injector to find center of the cross over tube in the next step. 6. Install all 6 crossover tubes. Torque the crossover tube nut to 11 foot/pounds. This will now seat the crossover tubes into the port of the injectors. 7. Now torque all the injector hold-down bolts to 89 inch/pounds. Make sure to alternate back and forth and not get one side buried into the bottom. Should be even and level. 8. Torque the crossover tube nuts to 37 foot/pounds. You will need a 24mm crowfoot or like myself I've done enough of these to do it by hand with a standard wrench. 9. Inspect the o-ring gasket before installing and replace if any damage is seen. Reinstall the lower half of the valve cover. There are seven 10mm bolts. Remember the front and rear have a bolt near the sealing lip. 10. Hook up all the injector wiring back to each injector. There is no polarity to the injector so it doesn't matter which wire goes on which post. Do not over torque the wire nuts the only need 11 inch/pounds of torque. Plug in the 3 engine harness plugs to the lower half. 11. Install the exhaust rocker in the order you had laid out. make sure the push rods are down in each tappet. The torque on the hold-down bolt is 35 foot/pounds. Be aware that maybe a few cylinders where the tappet is up on the cam lobe but also even a pushrod that isn't seat will look similar make sure the pushrods are in the tappets. If you kept the rockers in order then you will not need to do a valve lash. 12. Install all six high-pressure rails between the rail and the crossover tubes. If you kept them in the order it shouldn't be too hard. Torque the line nuts to 22 foot/pounds. 13. Reinstall the upper valve cover and crankcase vent tubes. The six valve cover bolts are torqued to 18 foot/pounds. 14. Check the condition of the grid heater gaskets replace if needed. Reinstall the air horn and grid heater. Torque the four 10mm bolts to 120 inch/pounds. 15. Attach the dipstick tube with the one 10mm bolt. Tighten snug. 16. Tighten the intake boot clamp.
  9. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Engine
    Oil ChangeMaterials Required3 Gallons (12 quarts) 15W-40 Engine Oil when temperatures are above 0*F (-17*C) Use only Diesel Engine Oil meeting standard MIL-2104C or API Classification CD or higher or CCML D4, D5. Petroleum Based. 3 Gallons (12 quarts) 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil when temperatures fall below -5*F (-15*C) Oil Filter Do NOT use Fram Oil Filter there is a TSB concerning the use of Fram Oil filters. Tools3/8 Ratchet Oil Filter Wrench 4 Gallon Drain Pan ProcedureStart the truck and drive the truck till it is up to full operating temperature. Bring it back home and park on flat level ground. Grab your engine oil drain pan and place it under the engine oil pan. Grab that 3/8 ratchet and loosen the engine oil drain plug on the engine oil pan. The square tip of the 3/8 ratchet will fit the drain plug perfectly. Now be careful that engine oil will be hot, a pair of nitrile gloves will guard your hand against hot oil splashing on your hands. Another way is to unscrew the drain plug and just drop the plug into the drain pan you can fish it out with a magnet. Next, you want to spin the oil filter off double check you have the rubber gasket on the oil filter and its not stuck to the filter mount base. Again be careful the engine oil and oil filter are going to be hot. I would suggest allowing it to drain for at least a good 1 hour. If you want the best results I do this in the evening and allow it to drain all night long. In the morning I install the drain plug and the oil filter. When installing the oil filter make sure to lube the rubber gasket with a small amount of clean engine oil. Spin the filter till the oil filter seal makes contact. Then tighten with your hand 3/4 of a turn and stop. WARNING: Do not tighten an oil filter using a filter wrench you can over-tighten and cause the rubber gasket of the oil filter to weep or leak from deforming the rubber seal. WARNING: I know a lot of people don't like dry starts and will prefill the oil filter with oil. I do not suggest this being if any materials or debris gets in the center hole of the oil filter it will be the first debris to the bearings and oil jets. It can do serious engine damage. If you want to prefill an oil filter make sure to plug the center hole and fill from the outer ring of small holes. These smaller holes are the inlet of the dirty filter from the oil pump. I've seen an engine ruined from a mouse turd that was in a bottle of Chevron Delo because the bottles are molded and left opened till filled so the mouse turd was poured into the oil filter and when the engine ran it plugged an oil cooler jet and fried a piston. Reinstall the drain plug. The FSM book shows that the torque is 37 foot-pounds. I've never used a torque wrench to install the drain plug. Now you'll want to fill the crankcase with fresh oil. Open the fill cap on the valve cover. Use a wide-mouth funnel and fill the crankcase with 3 gallons of engine oil. Again the oil typically is 15w-40 petroleum-based. Synthetics are not required for summer usage. Winter time with temperatures below -5*F consistently you need to switch over synthetic 5W-40 for winter time operation. After filling with oil and the oil cap is replaced on the valve cover. Start the engine up and watch the oil pressure gauge and verify there is oil pressure within about 10 seconds. If no oil pressure shut it down and investigate why the oil pressure isn't coming up. Once you see oil pressure get back out of the cab while it's running and verify the oil filter is not weeping or leaking. Then shut down the engine and allow to stand for a few minutes and check your level again to make sure it shows full on the dipstick.
  10. How To Display Engine Hours On The OdometerWhat Is NeededIgnition Keys ProcedureThis is an easy process to check the total hours on the engine. First off insert your ignition key and turn the key on but do not start. Quickly pressed and hold the trip button until the odometer display switches over to displaying hours. You'll know that the hours are being displayed. The odometer display shows the Hr prefix for the hour number displayed. PurposeIf you happen to be using your truck in a manner that has extended idle times or possible PTO usage or using an 12-volt electric winch where the truck is idling for an extended period you can base your maintenance off the hour meter instead of the odometer which will not account for extended idling times.
  11. I'm set for only 25% cruise engine load for cruise timing. Stock HX35W turbo so I'm a bit spooled at even 65 MPH. Crazy part i can use the full 8° of cruise timing but optimal i find my place based on engine oil temperature. Always watch temperature more it will give clues what works best. LOWER Temperature is better, less energy wasted in creating heat, more work produced.
  12. You are 3.69:1 final ratio. Just you are tall on the 4th gear aitomatic 0.68 ratio vs 5 speed at 0.75 ratio. Make sure on flat ground you can hold cruise timing but keeping boost below 5 PSI preferred.
  13. How about tire size and axle gear ratio?
  14. That's where things change when your capable of running highway speed unspooled. This way you keep fuel availability locked down too if done correctly. Like my current tune i don't even use the canbus 60 HP. Im just running on injectors and timing. My CANBus is is limited to 80% to 90% for most driving. No spool.
  15. Not going to make any gains... Timing is the ultimate EGT control once you understand how timing works. BHAF with 110℉ summer temperatures and still hold 700℉ EGT's at 82 MPH twisting 2,500 RPM in 5th gear.
  16. TSB 18-006-12 - Diagnostic Enhancements For Fuel System THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES SERVICE BULLETIN 18-011-11 REV. B., DATED JULY 1, 2011, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH ASTERISKS AND INCLUDE ADDITIONAL OVERVIEW AND DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION. HELP USING THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION FOR FLASHING AN ECU IS AVAILABLE BY SELECTING “HELP” THEN “HELP CONTENTS” AT THE TOP OF THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION WINDOW. THE wiTECH SOFTWARE LEVEL MUST BE AT RELEASE 12.02 OR HIGHER TO PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE. THE DRBIII® FLASH FILES FOR THIS BULLETIN ARE AVAILABLE ON DealerCONNECT. SUBJECT:Flash: Diagnostic Enhancements For Fuel System OVERVIEW:This bulletin provides Engine Control Module (ECM) software enhancements to improve robustness to fuel system issue detection and two new Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's). This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Engine Control Module (ECM) with new software. Diagnostic procedures for these new DTC's are included in this Service Bulletin on the last 2 pages which may be printed. The two new injector Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) for excessive injector return flow are: P1222 - LEAK DETECTION DURING MOTORING P1223 - LEAK DETECTION BASED ON QUANTITY BALANCE **When the fault(s) occur, a solid Wait to Start lamp will illuminate in the cluster along with chiming 10 times. When the fault goes inactive, it will clear the wait to start lamp with no chimes**. MODELS:2004.5DRRam Truck (2500/3500 Pick Up) 2005 - 2007DHRam Truck (2500 Pick Up) 2006 - 2007D1Ram Truck (3500 Pick Up) NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 5.9L Cummins Diesel Engine (sale codes ETC or ETH). PARTS REQUIRED: Qty. Part No. Description 1 04275086AD Label, Authorized Modification REPAIR PROCEDURE 2004.5 - 2005 MY - FLASH USING DRBIII®; - USING THE INTERNET TO RETRIEVE THE FLASH FILE: NOTE: Whenever a controller is programmed, the software in the DRBIII® must be programmed with the latest revision level available. Current software version is 64.1. NOTE: If this flash process is interrupted/aborted, the flash should be restarted. NOTE: Remove any unnecessary PCMCIA cards prior to starting a DRB III® flash. 1. Before beginning the reprogramming procedure, remove any old flash reprogramming files from the DRBIII® memory. To clear the memory from the MAIN MENU power up the DRBIII® and then: a. Simultaneously press the MORE and YES keys. b. A screen will appear requesting a COLD BOOT. c. Follow the on screen instructions by selecting the F4 key. d. When the DRBIIl® reboots to the MAIN MENU, proceed to Step #3. 2. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, determine and record the ECM part number of the ECM currently in the vehicle. Using the DRBIII® select: a. DRBIIl® Standalone b. 1998 - 2007 Diagnostics c. All (Except Below) d. Engine e. Module Display f. Record the ECM part number on the repair order for later reference. NOTE: If the ECM is not operational, the ECM part number can be obtained from the label on the controller. For 2003 and later vehicles, if the label on the controller is not legible, record the Reference Number for use later. The Reference Number is located in the Reference Number box at the top, center of the Engine Data Plate. The Engine Data Plate is located on the intake side of the breather cover or affixed to the APPS bracket. 3. Page back to the Main Menu 4. Determine if the vehicle is equipped with SKIM. Using the DRBIII® select: a. DRBIII® Standalone b. 1998 - 2007 Diagnostics c. All d. System Monitor e. J1850 Module Scan f. Look for “SKIM” in the list of modules 5. If the vehicle is not equipped with SKIM then proceed to Step #6. If the vehicle is equipped with SKIM obtain the vehicle Personal Identification Number (PIN) before continuing with Step #6. This information is available from: a. The original selling invoice. b. The DealerCONNECT system under the Parts tabs - select Key Codes. c. By contacting the District Manager. CAUTION: Failure to install the SKIM pin number into the module after flashing the Cummins ECM will cause a start and stall condition. 6. Install a battery charger and verify that the charging rate provides approximately 13.2 - 13.8 volts. Set the battery charger to continuous charge. Do not allow the charger to time out during the flash process. Remove the charger from the battery when the flash process is complete. NOTE: When reprogramming a Cummins ECM be sure to do the following; • Download the flash file from TechCONNECT to the DRBIII® with the DRBIII® disconnected from the vehicle. • Download the flash file from the DRBIIl® to the vehicle with the DRBIII® disconnected from TechCONNECT. 7. Connect the DRBIII® to TechCONNECT. Open TechTOOLS and verify that the "DRBIII® Status: Connected" message is in the upper right corner of the TechTOOLS screen. 8. Enter the old Cummins ECM part number obtained from the DRBIII® in Step #2 into the Parts Criteria window. 9. Select SHOW UPDATES. 10. Highlight the proper flash file from the list: a. If the old ECM part number is known, highlight the flash file listed, based on the old ECM part number recorded earlier in Step #2. b. If the old part number is not known, highlight the proper flash file based on the Reference No. located in the “Ref. No.” box, at the top, center of the Engine Data Plate. 11. Select the DRBIII® radio button which is next to the DOWNLOAD/UPDATE button. 12. Select the DOWNLOAD/UPDATE button. 13. Monitor the Flash Download/Update Progress window on the TechCONNECT and follow the instructions on TechCONNECT. When the flash process is complete, proceed to the next step. 14. Disconnect the DRBIII® from TechCONNECT. 15. Connect the DRBIII® to the vehicle. 16. Download the flash file from the DRBIIl® to the vehicle. Using the DRBIII® select: a. Vehicle Flash b. Follow the directions on the DRBIII® screen. When the flash process is complete, proceed to the next step. 17. If the vehicle is equipped with SKIM, proceed to Step #18. If the vehicle is not equipped with SKIM, proceed to Step #19. 18. On vehicles equipped with SKIM, transfer the VIN and Security Key information from the SKIM to the ECM. Using the DRBIII® select: a. DRBIII® Standalone b. 1998 - 2007 Diagnostics c. All d. Theft Alarm e. SKIM f. Miscellaneous g. Cummins ECM Replaced h. Follow the directions on the DRBIII® screen. When the process is complete, proceed to Step #20. 19. On vehicles not equipped with SKIM, manually enter the VIN in the ECM. Using the DRBIII® select: a. DRBIII® Standalone b. 1998 - 2007 Diagnostics c. All d. Engine e. Cummins Controller (ECM/ENGINE) f. Miscellaneous g. CM84X Check VIN h. Follow the directions on the DRBIII® screen. When the process is complete, proceed to next step. NOTE: Due to the Cummins controller programming procedure, a DTC may be set in other modules (PCM, TCM, BCM, MIC, SKIM, etc.) within the vehicle, if so equipped. Some DTC's may cause the MIL to illuminate. Check all modules using “Module Scan”, record the DTC's, and erase these DTC's prior to returning the vehicle to the customer. Erase any DTC's in the PCM only after all other modules have had their DTC's erased. NOTE: The following step is required by law. 20. Type the necessary information on the Authorized Modification Label p/n 04275086AB and attach near the VECI label REPAIR PROCEDURE 2006 - 2007 MY - USING WiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION: NOTE: HELP USING THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION FOR FLASHING AN ECU IS AVAILABLE BY SELECTING “HELP” THEN “HELP CONTENTS” AT THE TOP OF THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION WINDOW. NOTE: If this flash process is interrupted/aborted, the flash should be restarted. 1. Reprogram the PCM with the latest software. Follow the detailed service procedures available in DealerCONNECT/TechCONNECT, Refer To Group 8 - Electrical > 8E - Electronic Control Modules - Service Information > Module - Engine Control, Diesel > Standard Procedure > PCM/ECM Reprogramming - Diesel. 2. Type the necessary information on the “Authorized Modification Label” and attach it near the VECI label. Diagnostic procedures for these new DTC's are included in this Service Bulletin on the last 2 pages which may be printed. POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. TIME ALLOWANCE: Labor Operation No: Description Amount 18-19-04-9G Module, Engine Control (ECM) - Reprogram 2004.5 - 2005 (B) 0.8 Hrs. 18-19-04-9H Module, Engine Control (ECM) - Reprogram 2006 - 2007 (B) 0.4 Hrs.
  17. P1222 - Leak Detection During Motoring NOTE: For a complete wiring diagram, refer to the Wiring Information. When engine is motoring (i.e. Engine is running, but requires no fuel injection) the only required fuel delivery to the rail is due to natural leakage in the system. The natural leakage depends directly on the rail pressure. A definite amount of fuel is required to overcome the natural leakage, for different fuel pressures. The Engine Control Module (ECM) sets Leakage Detected, when the fuel flow exceeds an expected value. When a leak is detected in the system, a counter is initiated. When the counter reaches a predetermined value a fault is set and engine derate is enabled. When the leak is not detected the counter counts down, and once the counter becomes zero the engine is set back to normal running conditions. **A solid Wait to Start lamp will illuminate in the cluster along with chiming 10 times. When the fault goes inactive, it will clear the wait to start lamp with no chimes**. When Monitored: Engine is motoring and at operating temperature with no fuel system and engine speed related DTC's. Set Condition: Counter reaches a calibrated value. Possible CausesEXCESSIVE INJECTOR RETURN NOTE: Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. OTHER DTC's PRESENT1. Turn the ignition on. 2. With the scan tool, select View DTC's. Are there any other fuel system related DTC's present along with this DTC? a. Yes >>> Perform the diagnostics for the other fuel system DTC's before proceeding. b. No >>>> Perform the INJECTOR RETURN FLOW TEST procedure.
  18. Success!The injector issue is over. I'm currently working on adding the articles to the website and getting error codes and even the TSB article posted up for others. As I went out today on a cold start and turn the key over and waited for the grid heater light and then crank Thor over. Fast and clean start up. Very light blue smoke noticed and settles pre quick after a couple a heating strokes on the burning fuel. P1222 Error code https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/61_engine_61_61/95_obdii-error-codes/p1222-leak-detection-during-motoring-r750/?&do=getNewComment&d=4&id=750 P1223 Error Code https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/61_engine_61_61/95_obdii-error-codes/p1223-leak-detection-based-on-quantity-balance-r749/?&do=getNewComment&d=4&id=749 TSB article https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/3rd-generation/tsb-articles/tsb-18-006-12-diagnostic-enhancements-for-fuel-system-r751/?&do=getNewComment&d=4&id=751
  19. No... Please don't do this! Excessive tight valve could cause a stalling issues. The slach is the room it needs when the valve heats and starts to expand. Like myself I was playing with 0.008 and 0.018 for while but the excessive tightness was creating a stalling issue on hot summer days. I don't suggest going tight. Still the spec is still 0.010 intake and 0.020 for exhaust. Might check and measure total lift of each cam lobe and see how much possible wear there could be?
  20. P1223 - Leak Detection Based On Quantity Balance NOTE: For a complete wiring diagram, refer to the Wiring Information. There is a required amount of fuel required by the fuel system to keep the system stable. The amount of fuel required depends on fuel pressure, injection quantity, engine speed, and coolant temperature. The Engine Control Module (ECM) sets Leakage Detected, when the fuel flow exceeds an expected value. When a leak is detected in the system, a counter is initiated. When the counter reaches a predetermined value a fault is set and engine derate is enabled. When the leak is not detected the counter counts down, and once the counter becomes zero the engine is set back to normal running conditions. **A solid Wait to Start lamp will illuminate in the cluster along with chiming 10 times. When the fault goes inactive, it will clear the wait to start lamp with no chimes**. When Monitored:Engine is running above low idle speed and at operating temperature with no fuel system and engine speed related DTC's. • Set Condition: Counter reaches a calibrated value. Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. Possible CausesExcessive Injector Return NOTE: Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. OTHER DTC's PRESENT1. Turn the ignition on. 2. With the scan tool, select View DTC's. Are there any other fuel system related DTC's present along with this DTC? a. Yes >>> Perform the diagnostics for the other fuel system DTC's before proceeding. b. No >>>> Perform the INJECTOR RETURN FLOW TEST procedure.
  21. Quadzilla above 204℉ will revert to -40℉. I have installed the transmission temperature sensor in the oil pressure test port. This allows me to adjust timing based on oil temperature. As you find out you can cut up to about 35℉ off the oil temperature vs coolant. I can run as high as 220℉ in coolant but float right around 170-178℉ in oil temperature. Timing can make or break net temperature system-wide. Now that I've retuned around the average 210℉ coolant temperatures you don't need as much timing advancement. Even the picture below I can do this for less than 5 PSI of boost normally.
  22. Yes your correct. More you advance less air needs to be forced into the cylinder also fuel is cut and locked out at lower boost. Currently my best is +30 MPG across state of Washington from Seattle WA to the Idaho border at 300 miles and barely used a 1/4 tank of fuel. Beast is capable of 500 HP. Another tip swap to 200°F thermostat from a 6.7L. More heat, less advancement, better thermal dynamics.
  23. If you wanna increase flow of air all you need to do is retard timing and air flow is increased. Up here cold air is deadly and kills the MPG. Forcing more cold air would require lot more advancement as well. One of the reasons I love BHAF with the 2nd Gens
  24. Remember there is a very wide allowance. Like exhaust is 0.015 to 0.030 or intake is 0.006 to 0.015 are conidered normal.
  25. Food for thought. When tuning for efficiency like myself less boost is better. More boost pressure more you are unlocking fuel to flow. This will in turn create lower EGTs and cooler running engine. Even with Beast at 500 HP it cruise at 82 MPH in 5th gear at mere 2,500 RPMs but keep boost below 10 PSI and EGTs at 700°F. At slower 65 MPH I'm right at 2,000 RPM but EGTs drop to 550°F and boost of barely 1 to 2 PSI.